The p516 Hermoine Tortoiseshell Hairclip: A Mid-Century Classic

The Store p516 Hermoine tortoiseshell hairclip measures exactly 8.5 centimetres in length, with a subtle curve that sets it apart from the more common straight barrettes of its era. Hold one in your hand and you will notice the gentle taper from the centre toward the ends—a design detail that allows the clip to sit naturally against the crown of the head without pulling. This is not a mass-produced piece; each p516 displays slight variations in the mottled amber and dark brown pattern, evidence of the hand-cut celluloid or early cellulose acetate that was popular in British hair accessories between the late 1940s and the early 1960s.

Design and Silhouette

The p516 belongs to a family of mid-century barrettes often catalogued under the name ‘Hermoine’—a reference to the classical, understated elegance of the shape. Unlike the larger, more dramatic tortoiseshell combs worn for evening occasions, the p516 was designed for daily use. Its width is narrow enough to hold a side section or a small twist, yet the spring mechanism (a metal clip concealed within the tortoiseshell body) provides a firm grip that stays in place even in fine or slippery hair. The top surface is gently domed, catching light in a way that makes the tortoiseshell appear to glow from within. On the underside, the metal prongs are typically made of nickel-plated steel, often stamped with a tiny maker’s mark—a detail that collectors look for when dating a piece.

For those who appreciate the refined elegance of tortoiseshell, the p237 Lia Clip from Maison Archives offers a contrasting silhouette with its scalloped edges, while the p516 stays true to a clean, unadorned line that was favoured by British women who valued practicality over ornamentation. The absence of heavy decoration makes the p516 surprisingly versatile; it can be worn with a cashmere twinset and tweed skirt just as easily as with a silk blouse and tailored trousers.

Materials and Craftsmanship

Tortoiseshell in the context of the p516 almost certainly refers to faux tortoiseshell—a material made from cellulose nitrate or cellulose acetate, not genuine tortoiseshell from the hawksbill sea turtle. By the mid-20th century, real tortoiseshell had become increasingly scarce and expensive, and British manufacturers turned to synthetic alternatives that mimicked the depth and translucency of the natural material. The p516 is a fine example of this art: the brown and amber swirls are not printed on the surface but are embedded within the plastic, so they never wear off. When held up to the light, the clip shows a warm, honey-like translucency with darker flecks that resemble the scutes of a real tortoise shell.

To identify an authentic mid-century piece like the p516, look for the following characteristics:

• Weight: Genuine vintage celluloid is lighter than modern acrylic. The p516 feels substantial but not heavy.
• Smell: Cellulose nitrate may have a faint camphor-like odour, especially if the clip has been stored in a warm attic. Cellulose acetate has a milder, almost vinegar-like scent when degraded.
• Seam lines: Because the p516 was pressed in a mould, you may find a fine seam along the edge. This is normal and does not detract from value.
• Metal clip: The spring mechanism should be firm but not stiff. If the metal shows signs of rust, it can be gently cleaned with a soft cloth and a tiny amount of mineral oil.

Dating the p516 Hermoine

Without a manufacturer’s paper label, dating a p516 requires a close look at the clip’s construction. The style of the spring—a simple two-pronged metal clip with a round hinge—was common from the 1930s through the 1960s, but the use of cellulose acetate (rather than the earlier nitrate) suggests a post-war date. Most p516 examples found in British charity shops and vintage fairs date from the 1950s. The name ‘Hermoine’ itself may have been a retailer’s designation; some collectors believe it refers to a line produced by a small London haberdashery that closed in the 1970s, though no definitive records survive.

One clue is the colour palette. Early 1950s tortoiseshell tends to be lighter, with more yellow and less brown, while late 1950s and early 1960s pieces often have deeper, richer amber tones. The p516 typically falls in the middle range—a balanced mix of honey and dark chocolate—which places it around 1955–1958. If you find a clip with a very uniform, almost plastic-looking pattern, it is likely a later reproduction, not the original p516.

Styling the p516 Today

The beauty of the p516 lies in its simplicity. In a contemporary wardrobe, it works as a subtle accent that adds a vintage touch without screaming ‘costume’. Here are a few ways to wear it:

• Half-up style: Use the p516 to secure a small section of hair at the back of the head, letting the rest fall loose. The tortoiseshell blends with most hair colours but looks especially rich against brunette and auburn tones.
• Side sweep: Clip the p516 diagonally above the ear to hold back a deep side part. This works well with a low ponytail or a chignon.
• French twist: For a more polished look, insert the p516 vertically into a French twist to keep the roll in place. The curved top of the clip echoes the shape of the twist.
• Layered with other clips: Because the p516 is narrow, you can pair it with a smaller tortoiseshell slide or a pearl barrette without overwhelming the hair. Avoid mixing metals—stick to warm gold or brass tones to complement the amber.

Care and Preservation

Vintage celluloid and acetate require gentle handling. The p516 is not a piece you should wear in the rain, as moisture can cause the plastic to warp or develop a white bloom. To keep it in good condition:

1. Store the clip away from direct sunlight and heat sources. A felt-lined jewellery box or a small drawer works well.
2. Clean it only when necessary. Use a soft, dry cotton cloth to wipe away dust. If the clip feels sticky (a sign of cellulose nitrate degradation), place it in a well-ventilated area away from other plastics—do not oil it, as that can accelerate breakdown.
3. Avoid bending the metal clip. The spring can lose tension over time, but it is usually not repairable without specialist tools. If the clip no longer holds, it may be better to display the p516 as a collectible rather than force it into use.
4. Never immerse the clip in water, alcohol, or acetone. These solvents will destroy the surface and dull the tortoiseshell pattern.

When storing your p516, wrap it in acid-free tissue paper and keep it in a cool, dry drawer away from direct sunlight. This simple step will prevent the plastic from becoming brittle and preserve the warm glow that makes the Hermoine so beloved among collectors.