The p515 Ric Rac Hairclip: A Collector’s Guide to the Honey Tortoiseshell Classic

Among the dozens of Ric Rac hairclips that surface at flea markets and estate sales across Britain, the p515 from the store that catalogued it with that exact stock number stands apart. Its zigzag silhouette is familiar to anyone who loves mid-century hair accessories, but the p515 offers a subtle variation in material and finish that makes it a quiet favourite among collectors. The clip is moulded from a dark honey tortoiseshell acetate, with a slight amber translucency that catches the light differently depending on the angle. The teeth are cut with a precise, almost mathematical rhythm – each zigzag edge mirrors the next, but the spacing is just wide enough to hold a thick section of hair without pulling.

The p515 was produced in the late 1950s, when British hair accessory makers were experimenting with new plastics and acetate formulations. Unlike the earlier celluloid clips that could yellow or become brittle, the p515’s acetate blend has held up well. Many surviving examples still retain their original lustre, though a gentle patina has developed over the decades. The clip measures approximately 7.5 cm in length, making it a medium-sized piece – substantial enough to anchor a half-up style, yet delicate enough to nestle into a chignon without overwhelming the silhouette.

Materials and Techniques: The Art of the Zigzag

The Ric Rac shape is deceptively simple. Each clip starts as a flat sheet of acetate, which is heated and pressed into a die-cast metal mould. The mould creates the signature scalloped edges and the gentle curve of the back. Once cooled, the clip is trimmed and fitted with a steel spring mechanism that runs along the spine. The p515 uses a two-prong spring, a design common in the 1950s but later replaced by cheaper single-prong versions. The two-prong system distributes pressure evenly, reducing the risk of the clip sliding out of fine or silky hair.

The tortoiseshell pattern is not painted on – it is achieved by layering different coloured acetate sheets during the manufacturing process. The p515 shows a warm honey base with darker brown streaks that swirl in irregular patterns. Because each sheet is cut from a larger block, no two p515 clips are identical. Some have a high concentration of dark streaks near the centre, while others are almost uniformly translucent. This natural variation is part of the clip’s charm and a key indicator of authenticity.

Collectors often compare the p515 to the p507 Ric Rac Hairclip, which shares the same basic silhouette but was produced in a darker, more opaque tortoiseshell. The p515’s lighter colouring makes it especially flattering for blondes or those with lighter hair tones, as it blends without disappearing entirely. For a contrasting look, the Georgia Pearl Comb offers a completely different texture, but both pieces belong to the same mid-century design language of clean lines and organic shapes.

How to Spot an Authentic p515

With the popularity of vintage hair accessories, reproductions and later reissues have appeared. The p515 has a few telltale signs that distinguish it from fakes or later copies:

• Material: Authentic p515 clips are made from cellulose acetate, not modern acrylic. Acetate has a warm, slightly woody smell when warmed by the hand, and it feels denser than acrylic.
• Spring mechanism: The two-prong steel spring is held in place by small brass rivets. On later reproductions, the spring is often a single continuous wire with no rivets.
• Colour variation: The honey tortoiseshell pattern should have natural swirls and no two are identical. If the pattern is perfectly uniform or printed on the surface, it is likely a modern copy.
• Edges: The zigzag teeth should be smooth and slightly rounded at the tips. Rough or sharp edges indicate a cheap mould or post-production damage.

Examine the underside of the clip where the spring attaches. Original p515 clips often have a faint stamp – usually a number or a small mark – but this can wear off over time. The absence of a stamp is not a red flag, but the presence of a legible “Made in England” mark is a strong positive sign.

Styling the p515 Ric Rac Hairclip

The p515 was designed for everyday wear, but its refined silhouette works equally well for casual and formal occasions. Its medium size and secure grip make it ideal for several classic hairstyles:

• The French twist: Slide the clip vertically into the twist just above the nape of the neck. The zigzag edges catch the hair and prevent the twist from unravelling.
• Half-up, half-down: Gather the top section of hair from the temples and secure it with the p515 at the crown. The clip’s curve follows the shape of the head, so it sits flat and comfortable.
• Side-swept chignon: Sweep all hair to one side, twist into a loose knot, and pin the p515 horizontally across the centre. This creates a relaxed, 1960s-inspired look that is surprisingly modern.

For those who prefer a low-maintenance approach, the p515 can simply be used to hold back a thick side fringe or to anchor a silk scarf tied around the head. The clip’s warm tortoiseshell tones complement jewel tones, neutrals, and even bright pastels, making it a versatile addition to any wardrobe.

Care and Preservation

Cellulose acetate is a natural material that can degrade if exposed to excessive heat, direct sunlight, or harsh chemicals. To keep your p515 in good condition, follow these guidelines:

• Store flat: Never leave the clip in a bent position, as the spring can lose tension over time. A small pouch or a lined jewellery box works well.
• Clean gently: Wipe the clip with a soft, dry cloth after each use. If needed, use a slightly damp cloth with mild soap, then dry immediately. Avoid alcohol, acetone, or any solvent-based cleaners.
• Avoid heat: Do not leave the clip in a hot car, near a radiator, or under a hairdryer. Heat can warp the acetate and cause the tortoiseshell pattern to bubble.
• Oil the spring: Once a year, apply a tiny drop of sewing machine oil to the hinge points of the spring. This prevents rust and ensures smooth movement.

If the acetate becomes cloudy or develops a white film, it may be suffering from “vinegar syndrome” – a chemical reaction common in older celluloid but less so in acetate. A light polish with a specialised plastic polish can sometimes restore clarity, but it is often safer to leave the patina intact. The p515’s age is part of its story.

When you find a p515 in the wild – perhaps at a vintage fair or a charity shop – examine the spring mechanism by gently opening and closing the clip. A smooth, slight resistance is ideal. If the clip snaps shut abruptly or feels stiff, the spring may need replacement, which is a delicate operation best left to a professional jeweller or watchmaker. Many collectors prefer to buy p515 pieces that are fully functional, as the clips are meant to be worn, not just displayed.