The Store p518 Rumi Hairclip: A Collector’s Guide to Authenticity and Style

The Store p518 Rumi hairclip carries a tiny italic stamp on the inner curve of its metal spring — 'Rumi' followed by the number 518. That hallmark is the collector's first clue that this is not a mass-produced modern accessory but a piece of mid-century British craftsmanship. The clip itself feels substantial yet balanced — the tortoiseshell pattern is warm, with deep amber swirls that catch the light differently depending on the angle. Its story begins in a small London workshop.

The Origins of the Rumi Hairclip

Rumi was the trade name of a small London-based workshop active between the late 1950s and early 1970s. Unlike larger manufacturers such as Maison Archives or Shicato, Rumi operated from a single studio in Camden Town, producing limited runs of hair accessories for select department stores and independent boutiques. The '518' in the product code likely refers to the design number — a carved floral motif that the workshop revisited in several variations. The p518 features a central rose blossom surrounded by stylised leaves, all hand-carved into a pre-formed sheet of tortoiseshell-coloured cellulose acetate. This material, often mistaken for genuine tortoiseshell, was a popular alternative in post-war Britain because it offered the same rich translucency without the ethical and legal complications of using hawksbill turtle shell.

Materials and Construction Techniques

The p518 is made from a two-layer laminate: a top layer of mottled amber cellulose acetate and a backing layer of darker brown acetate that gives the clip its depth. The carving was done by hand using small gouges and heated tools, a technique that required steady pressure to avoid cracking the acetate. After carving, the clip was polished with pumice and oil to achieve a soft gloss. The metal spring mechanism is brass with a nickel plating, and the hinge pin is riveted rather than glued — a sign of quality that distinguishes genuine Rumi pieces from later imitations.

Collectors often compare the p518 to the Maison Archives Filo Tortoiseshell clip in terms of material feel, but the Rumi has a slightly warmer colour palette and a more organic, less geometric carving style. The Filo clip tends toward clean lines, while the p518 embraces a romantic, almost Victorian floral language.

How to Authenticate a Store p518 Rumi Hairclip

Because Rumi pieces are increasingly sought after, knowing how to spot an authentic p518 is essential. Here is a quick checklist:

• The stamp: Look for the italic Rumi and the number 518 on the inside of the spring. The stamp is shallow but crisp, never embossed.
• The carving: The rose petals should have distinct, uneven edges — a sign of handwork. Machine-carved petals are too symmetrical.
• The hinge: The rivet head is flat and flush with the metal. If you see a screw or a pop rivet, it is a later repair or a reproduction.
• The weight: An authentic p518 weighs about 12 grams. Fakes made of modern resin are noticeably lighter or heavier.

Styling the p518 with a Modern Wardrobe

The Rumi hairclip works surprisingly well with contemporary outfits, thanks to its neutral amber tones. It pairs beautifully with cream linen blouses, navy blazers, and even chunky knit jumpers. For a 2025 take on a 1960s silhouette, try sweeping your hair into a low, loose chignon and securing it with the clip placed horizontally just above the nape of the neck. The carved rose becomes a subtle focal point — elegant without being fussy.

If you prefer a more casual look, the p518 also holds a half-up twist. The spring mechanism is strong enough to grip fine hair without slipping, but it is gentle on strands because the metal edges are coated with a thin layer of acetate. Avoid using the clip on wet hair, as moisture can cause the acetate to warp over time.

Care and Maintenance for Your Rumi Hairclip

Cellulose acetate is sensitive to heat and prolonged sunlight. Never leave your p518 on a radiator or in a car on a sunny day — the material can warp or develop a white haze known as ‘blooming’. To clean the clip, wipe it with a soft, dry cloth after each wear. For deeper cleaning, use a cotton bud slightly dampened with distilled water and a drop of mild soap, then dry immediately. Store the clip flat in a fabric-lined box, away from other accessories that might scratch the polished surface.

If the spring becomes loose, a jeweller can gently tighten the hinge by compressing the rivet with a specialised tool. Avoid using pliers at home — they will mar the nickel plating. Regular maintenance will keep the clip functional for decades, and because the design is timeless, it will never look out of place.

A Final Detail Worth Knowing

One of the most reliable ways to distinguish a genuine p518 from a later copy is the shape of the clasp opening. The original Rumi mechanism has a slight curve at the tip of the upper prong, almost like a tiny hook, that helps the clip stay locked in place. Modern versions lack this curve. Next time you examine a potential find, run your finger along the inside edge of the top prong — if you feel that subtle notch, you are holding a piece of Camden Town history.