The Frida Barrette: A Collector’s Guide to the p167 Tortoiseshell Hair Clip

The product code ‘p167’ is stamped neatly into the metal spring clip on the reverse of a small tortoiseshell barrette, and for those who collect mid-century British hair accessories, those four digits signal something worth a second look. The barrette itself carries the name ‘Frida’ – a whimsical touch that suggests the designer intended more than just a functional hair holder. With its softly rounded wings and deep, warm amber mottling, the Frida belongs to a family of tortoiseshell pieces that once filled the haberdashery counters of London department stores and now turn up in antiques markets from Brighton to Edinburgh. Understanding what makes this particular barrette special – from its material to its silhouette – helps you spot it among the many lookalikes and care for it once it lands in your collection.

The Frida Design: A Silhouette of Grace

The Frida barrette measures roughly 6.5 cm across and 2.5 cm deep, a size that sits comfortably on a side-swept section of hair without overwhelming the head. Its outline mimics a pair of stylised butterfly wings or a bow in mid-flutter – a shape that became popular in the 1950s as women sought accessories that felt both playful and polished. The top edge curves gently inward, while the lower edge flares outward, creating a subtle asymmetry that catches the light. Unlike many mass-produced barrettes that rely on a single mould, the Frida shows hand-finishing marks along the inner contours, particularly where the tortoiseshell material thins near the clip. Collectors often compare the fluid lines of the Frida to the sinuous shape of the Bottle Green Snake Barrette, another piece that rewards close inspection for its organic form.

Tortoiseshell: Genuine, Celluloid or Faux?

The material of the p167 Frida is the first thing a seasoned collector checks. True tortoiseshell (from the hawksbill sea turtle) was widely used in Victorian and Edwardian accessories, but by the 1950s it was increasingly replaced by celluloid and later by casein plastics that mimicked the mottled amber appearance. The Frida barrette was produced in an era when both genuine and imitation tortoiseshell coexisted, so you may encounter examples in either material. Here is how to tell them apart:

• Genuine tortoiseshell – Feels slightly warm to the touch, has a layered, translucent depth when held up to light, and the mottling is irregular, with dark brown blobs bleeding into lighter amber. Under a magnifying glass you may see tiny overlapping scales. It also gives off a faint, earthy smell when gently warmed (never use heat on a collectible piece without caution).
• Celluloid – Lighter in weight, often with a more uniform colour. When rubbed vigorously with a dry cloth, celluloid can emit a distinct camphor-like odour. It also tends to become brittle and crack over time, especially around the clip area.
• Casein or resin – Harder and less translucent; the mottling is often printed onto the surface rather than running through the thickness. These later imitations are less prized by purists but can still be charming if the colourway is rich.

The Frida marked ‘Store’ on the clip – a brand label that many British accessory houses used in the mid-20th century – is most frequently found in high-grade celluloid, though genuine tortoiseshell versions exist. If you suspect you have a genuine shell piece, treat it as a museum object: avoid prolonged exposure to sunlight, which fades the amber tones, and never immerse it in water.

Dating the p167 Frida Barrette

Dating these pieces relies on a combination of clip style, material, and packaging. The p167 uses a double-pronged metal spring clip with a small tab at the back – a design that became standard in British hair accessory manufacturing around 1948 and continued well into the 1960s. The ‘Store’ stamp itself, often accompanied by a tiny crown or registration number, places the Frida in the post-war period when British makers were rebuilding export markets. The whimsical naming – Frida, rather than a purely numeric code – hints at a later 1950s or early 1960s production run, when branding was becoming more consumer-friendly. If you find one still attached to its original card, look for pastel colours and cursive typography, which confirm a mid-century date.

Styling the Frida with a Modern Wardrobe

Vintage barrettes can feel fussy if forced into a period-appropriate outfit, but the Frida’s warm tortoiseshell hues – amber, honey, chocolate – blend seamlessly with contemporary neutrals. A simple low ponytail secured with the Frida placed horizontally at the nape of the neck adds a subtle nod to 1950s elegance without looking costume-like. For shorter hair, slide it into a side part to hold back a section of waves; the wide wings distribute tension evenly, so it stays put without damaging hair. Tortoiseshell also pairs beautifully with navy, cream, olive, and camel – colours that dominate many modern capsule wardrobes. Avoid wearing it with busy patterns or bright neons, which will fight for attention with the barrette’s own organic pattern.

Care and Storage: Keeping the Frida Safe

The greatest enemy of any vintage hair accessory is mishandling. For the p167 Frida, follow these practical steps:

• Store it flat in a fabric-lined box or a drawer with separate compartments – never toss multiple barrettes into a ceramic bowl where they can scratch each other.
• Wrap each piece in acid-free tissue paper if you have several tortoiseshell items; the soft paper prevents dust and reduces friction.
• Clean the metal clip with a dry cotton swab – moisture can cause rust or, worse, seep into the tortoiseshell material and create cloudy patches. If the clip is tarnished, a gentle rub with a silver polishing cloth (avoiding the shell) is safe.
• Keep away from radiators and direct sunlight. Tortoiseshell – whether genuine or celluloid – can warp or discolour when exposed to high temperatures.
• If you notice a crack or loose prong, consult a specialist in vintage jewellery repair; do not attempt to glue it yourself, as many adhesives react badly with old plastics.

One collector’s trick worth adopting: place the barrette on a small velvet square inside a shallow drawer so you can see it every time you open the dresser. The daily reminder to admire its details also encourages you to rotate your accessories rather than letting them languish forgotten.

A Final Note on the Frida’s Place in British Hair Accessory History

The p167 Frida may not be the rarest tortoiseshell barrette to survive from the mid-century, but it exemplifies the care British manufacturers put into everyday objects. The gentle curve of its wings, the precise alignment of the clip, the warm depth of its colour – these are decisions made by someone who understood that a small piece of plastic or shell could bring a moment of pleasure each time a woman pinned up her hair. Finding an original Frida in good condition is a quiet victory for any collector; keeping it safe ensures that pleasure endures for another sixty years.