The Store P168 Margo: A Vintage Faux Pearl Barrette Worth Collecting
If you have ever held a mid-century faux pearl hair clip in your palm, you know the quiet weight of it—solid, reassuring, with a slight coolness that speaks of resin and metal rather than plastic. The Store P168 Margo is precisely such a piece. Unlike the beret clips that dominate many vintage collections, this barrette belongs to a different lineage: the dress clip, designed to sit low on a side sweep or to anchor a chignon with a single, elegant statement. Its name, Margo, suggests a 1950s or early 1960s origin, when British jewellery houses often gave feminine names to their hair accessory lines. But what makes the Margo truly distinctive is its use of faux pearls—not as an afterthought, but as the central motif, arranged in a graduated cluster that mimics the natural irregularity of real seed pearls.
Faux pearls in hair accessories have a surprisingly long pedigree. Victorian women wore hair ornaments made from hollow glass beads filled with wax or fish-scale essence, a technique refined in France. By the 1920s, celluloid and later Bakelite allowed for mass-produced simulated pearls that were lightweight and durable. The Margo clip, however, belongs to the post-war era when manufacturers like Coro, Trifari, and lesser-known British firms perfected the use of polystyrene and acrylic resins. The pearls on the Margo are not perfectly round; they have a slight organic asymmetry, and their lustre comes from a thin coating of pearl essence sprayed over a white core. This is a hallmark of quality—cheaper modern copies use uniform plastic beads with an artificial shine.
The Anatomy of the Margo Barrette
The Store P168 Margo is a metal-backed barrette, typically made from a silver-toned or gold-toned base metal—often brass or a nickel alloy, then plated. The clip mechanism is a spring-loaded alligator style, common in the 1950s and 1960s, which provides a firm grip without damaging hair. The pearls are set in a metal frame that is either soldered or crimped; examining the reverse side reveals the craftsmanship. Original Margo clips often have a small stamped mark: "Margo" in script, sometimes accompanied by the store code "P168". This code likely refers to a specific retailer's inventory system—perhaps a department store in London or a boutique in the Home Counties. Collectors search for these marks because they authenticate the piece and hint at its provenance.
The arrangement of pearls is what sets the Margo apart. Unlike a uniform row, the pearls graduate from a larger central pearl (about 8 mm) to smaller ones on the ends, creating a gentle arc. This shape was designed to follow the curve of the head when worn on a side part. Some variations include a single small rhinestone at the centre, but the standard Margo relies entirely on the creamy white of the faux pearls. The effect is understated luxury—perfect for a wedding, a garden party, or simply dressing up a cashmere jumper and well-fitted trousers.
Materials and Techniques: What to Look For
When evaluating a vintage faux pearl barrette like the Margo, three things matter: the base metal, the pearl coating, and the clip spring. The base metal should show no active rust or green corrosion—light tarnish is normal and can be cleaned gently with a soft cloth. The pearl coating may have tiny crazing (fine cracks) due to age, but avoid pieces where the coating is flaking off in large patches. The spring mechanism should open and close with a crisp snap; if it feels sticky or loose, a jeweller can often replace the spring without damaging the setting.
The faux pearls themselves are usually made from a resin core dipped multiple times in a solution of fish scales (guanine) and lacquer. This traditional method, still used by some Italian artisans today, creates a depth of lustre that modern plastic beads lack. To test authenticity, hold the clip near a warm light bulb (not too close) and look for a subtle iridescence. A genuine vintage faux pearl will have a warm glow, not a cold, flat white.
Styling the Margo with a Modern Wardrobe
The beauty of a piece like the Margo is its versatility. Because the pearls are not overtly glittery, they work equally well with casual and formal looks. For a daytime outfit, slide the barrette into a low side ponytail or use it to secure a soft French twist. The graduated shape means it sits flush against the head, so it won't poke out awkwardly. Pair it with a crisp white shirt, dark denim, and loafers for an effortless British prep aesthetic. For evening, the Margo can replace a statement earring—place it at the nape of the neck with hair swept to one side, and let the pearls catch the light.
One common mistake is to wear a faux pearl barrette with other pearl jewellery that is a different shade of white. Vintage faux pearls tend to have a slightly warmer, creamier tone than modern cultured pearls. To avoid a mismatch, either wear the barrette alone or pair it with other vintage faux pearl pieces. A single strand of matching faux pearls or a simple pearl stud earring from the same era creates a cohesive look.
Care and Preservation of Your Margo Clip
Because the Margo is a metal-and-resin composite, it requires gentle handling. Never submerge it in water; moisture can seep under the pearl coating and cause it to lift. Instead, wipe the barrette with a dry, lint-free cloth after each wear. Store it in a soft pouch or a compartmented jewellery box away from direct sunlight, which can yellow the resin over time. If the metal plating begins to wear, a thin coat of Renaissance Wax can protect it without altering the colour. Avoid using jewellery cleaning dips or ultrasonic cleaners—they are too aggressive for vintage faux pearls.
For collectors, documenting the store code P168 is part of the fun. This code may correspond to a specific British retailer's stock system from the 1950s or 1960s. Some enthusiasts keep a small notebook with photos and codes, cross-referencing them with other finds. If you discover a Margo clip with a different code, it may be a variation from another store. The hunt for these subtle differences is what makes vintage accessory collecting so rewarding.
One final, practical note: when fastening the Margo, open the clip fully and slide it into your hair at a slight angle, then press closed. Pulling the clip straight out can strain the spring. With proper care, a Margo barrette can last for decades more—perhaps even becoming a family heirloom. The next time you see one at a flea market or in a grandparent's vanity, you will know exactly what you are holding: a small piece of British mid-century design, as wearable today as it was sixty years ago.