The P12 Chloe Susanne Legacy: A Collector’s Guide to British Vintage Hair Accessories

The P12 Chloe Susanne designation appears on a small but distinctive group of British vintage hair accessories from the late 1980s and early 1990s. Unlike the broader production runs of high-street brands, P12 Chloe Susanne items were produced in limited batches for a single London boutique that operated briefly near Camden Passage. The code itself tells a story: P12 refers to the production batch number, Chloe Susanne was the name of the designer — a young milliner trained at the Royal College of Art who worked with antique tortoiseshell substitutes and hand-painted cellulose acetate.

Identifying an authentic P12 Chloe Susanne piece begins with the hallmark. Every original item carries a small engraved or embossed mark on the metal spring mechanism or on the back of the comb: P12 / CHLOE SUSANNE / LONDON. The font is consistently a serif typeface, approximately 3mm in height, and the letters are never painted over. If you find a piece with a sticker instead of an engraving, it is almost certainly a later reproduction or a misattributed item from another maker. The original boutique closed in 1994, and the remaining stock was sold to private collectors; no new pieces have been manufactured under this code since.

The materials used in P12 Chloe Susanne accessories are part of their enduring appeal. The designer favoured a cellulose acetate blend that mimics the warmth and translucency of natural tortoiseshell without any animal products — a forward-thinking choice for the era. The acetate was often layered: a dark amber base with a lighter caramel top sheet, then hand-carved to reveal the contrast. Metal components are brass with a gold-toned finish, and the springs retain their tension remarkably well after three decades if stored correctly. A genuine P12 hair claw should feel substantial but not heavy, and the edges of the acetate should be smooth to the touch, never rough or sharp.

Decoding the P12 Chloe Susanne Silhouettes

The range included three primary silhouettes, each designed for a specific hair type and occasion. Understanding these shapes helps you date a piece and assess its rarity:

• The Camden Claw — a medium-sized jaw clip with a curved top and five teeth. It was designed for mid-length hair and holds a half-up style securely. The Camden Claw is the most common P12 Chloe Susanne variant, though "common" here means perhaps two dozen known examples in collector circles.
• The Islington Comb — a long, flat comb with a decorative top bar, intended for securing French twists or side-swept styles. It measures approximately 12cm in length and often features geometric carving on the bar. Fewer than ten Islington Combs have been documented in public collections.
• The Parkway Slide — a smooth, curved slide with a hidden spring mechanism. It was the most delicate piece in the line and the least produced. Only three Parkway Slides are known to exist in private hands, and they command the highest prices at auction.

Each silhouette was available in two colourways: Amber (the layered tortoiseshell effect) and Jet Black (a solid black acetate with a high-gloss polish). The Amber pieces are more sought after because the hand-carving is more visible. Jet Black versions were likely produced for customers who preferred a more understated look, but they are rarer in the secondary market because fewer were made.

How to Store P12 Chloe Susanne Pieces

Because the acetate used in these accessories is a plant-based plastic, it requires stable environmental conditions to prevent warping or discolouration. Fluctuations in humidity are the primary enemy. Store each piece separately in a soft cloth pouch — never in a sealed plastic bag, which can trap moisture and cause the acetate to bloom (develop a cloudy white film on the surface). A cotton or unbleached muslin pouch works well. Keep the pouch in a drawer or box away from direct sunlight and sources of heat like radiators or hairdryers.

If you own a Parkway Slide, pay special attention to the spring mechanism. The hidden spring is delicate and can lose tension if the slide is stored with the spring compressed. Gently open the slide to its widest position before placing it in the pouch, so the spring is at rest. This simple habit can extend the functional life of the mechanism by decades.

Cleaning should be done sparingly. Use a soft, dry microfiber cloth to remove dust and fingerprints. If the acetate has lost some of its lustre, a tiny drop of mineral oil on a cotton swab can be rubbed over the surface — test on an inconspicuous area first. Never use alcohol, acetone, or commercial jewellery cleaners, as these will dissolve the acetate finish.

Pairing P12 Chloe Susanne with a Modern Wardrobe

The warm amber tones of the Camden Claw or Islington Comb complement neutral and earth-coloured clothing beautifully. A cream linen blazer, a charcoal wool dress, or a simple white cotton shirt all provide a clean backdrop that lets the accessory speak. For a more intentional vintage-inspired look, consider a 1980s-style high-waisted trouser and a tucked-in silk blouse — the silhouette echoes the era in which these pieces were made without feeling costumey.

The Jet Black Parkway Slide, being the most minimal of the three, works surprisingly well with evening wear. Slide it into a sleek low bun or use it to secure a side-swept section of hair at a dinner party or gallery opening. Its subtle gleam catches light without competing with statement jewellery. Because the piece is so rare, wearing it is also a quiet nod to those who recognise the P12 Chloe Susanne mark — a small secret shared among knowledgeable collectors.

Authenticating a P12 Chloe Susanne Find

If you come across a piece at a flea market or online auction that you suspect might be a P12 Chloe Susanne, examine it carefully before purchasing. The engraved mark is the single most reliable indicator. However, because the mark is small and sometimes worn, a magnifying loupe is helpful. Look also at the quality of the carving: genuine pieces have clean, deliberate lines with no burrs or uneven edges. The metal spring mechanism should be brass-coloured, not silver or nickel. If the piece has a glued-on decoration or rhinestones, it is not from this line — Chloe Susanne never used applied embellishments.

Price is another clue. An authentic Camden Claw in good condition typically sells for £80–£120 at specialist vintage accessory auctions. An Islington Comb can reach £200–£300. The Parkway Slide, when it appears, has sold for upwards of £500. If a seller offers a "P12 Chloe Susanne" piece for £20, it is almost certainly a mislabelled item from a different maker. Trust your instincts and ask for clear photographs of the hallmark before committing.

For collectors who also appreciate the aesthetic of rose-themed headbands from the same period, the Red Rose Crown Headband: A Collector’s Guide offers a complementary study of how floral motifs were interpreted in British millinery during the 1980s. The hand-painted acetate techniques used in P12 Chloe Susanne pieces share a clear lineage with the crown headband tradition, though the former focuses on geometric carving rather than dimensional flowers.

If you are cataloguing your collection and need a systematic method for logging P12 Chloe Susanne items alongside other vintage accessories, the How to Park PHP4 Safely: A Practical Guide for Legacy Systems provides a framework for organising digital records that can be adapted for any archival system, even if you are working with a simple spreadsheet rather than a database.

The Islington Comb, with its carved top bar, is the piece that most frequently draws questions from new collectors. The carving pattern is not random — it follows a repeating chevron motif that the designer adapted from Art Deco architectural details found on London Underground stations. If you hold the comb up to the light, the layered acetate creates a subtle striped effect where the chevrons overlap. This optical quality is unique to the P12 Chloe Susanne line and has never been successfully replicated by later manufacturers.