The Shicato Red Heart Clip: A Mid-Century Misnomer

Store P118 appears in the ledgers of a small London haberdashery that operated from a Mayfair arcade between 1948 and 1962. Under that code, the stock card reads: 'Shicato Red Heart Earrings.' Yet the item is not an earring – it's a clip-on hair ornament, a delicate red heart with a brass spring mechanism, designed to be worn at the temple or nestled among pin curls. Misnomers like this are common in vintage accessory cataloguing, where the line between jewellery and hair adornment was often blurred. For collectors, that distinction is key to appreciating this charming piece of mid-century British design.

The Story Behind the Code

Shicato was not a large manufacturer but a small atelier based in London's Soho, specialising in whimsical costume pieces aimed at young women who wanted a touch of Continental flair. The name itself – a playful contraction of 'she' and 'cato' (Latin for 'I shine') – suggests the brand's ambition to bring a little glamour to everyday dressing. The red heart clip was one of their best-sellers, produced in small batches between 1954 and 1959. Each piece was individually numbered, and the 'P118' prefix in the store's inventory system likely indicated a specific production run or a particular display cabinet in the shop. Surviving examples are now rare, prized by collectors of mid-century British hair accessories for their vivid colour and impeccable craftsmanship.

Materials and Craftsmanship

The Shicato red heart is made from a lightweight brass base, overlaid with a layer of vitreous enamel in a deep ruby red. The enamel is fired at high temperature, giving it a glossy, durable finish that resists chipping far better than later painted plastics. The reverse side reveals the clip mechanism – a simple yet effective spring-loaded grip with two small pads lined with felt to protect the hair. The felt is often the first element to degrade, but the brass spring itself usually remains functional even after seventy years. The heart measures approximately 3 cm across, a size that sits comfortably against the head without being obtrusive. The edges are slightly rolled, a detail that catches the light and adds to the three-dimensional effect.

Identifying Authentic Pieces

Because the Shicato clip is frequently misidentified as a pair of earrings, collectors should look for specific markers. Authentic examples have a single clip on the back, not a screw-back or post fitting. The clip should be stamped with a tiny 'Shicato' mark and the number 'P118' on the inner surface. The enamel colour is a true red, not orange-red or burgundy; later reproductions often use a cheaper paint that flakes easily. The felt pads, if present, are a pale grey or cream colour, never white or black. The spring tension should be firm but not aggressive – a clip that snaps shut too hard may have been damaged or replaced. If you encounter a heart that appears to be a pair (two identical clips), it is almost certainly a set of earrings that have been repurposed; genuine hair clips were sold singly, intended to be worn alone or as an accent.

How to Style a Vintage Red Heart Clip

The red heart clip is surprisingly versatile. In the 1950s, it was often worn at the side of a sleek chignon or tucked into a short, curled bob. Today, it works beautifully as a single statement piece in a low ponytail or fastened to a velvet headband. For a modern twist, try clipping it onto a messy bun – the contrast between the polished enamel and relaxed texture creates an effortless elegance. Because the clip is small, it pairs well with other vintage hair accessories; consider layering it with a vintage Romaine clip for a layered look that echoes the eclectic styling of the 1960s. Avoid wearing it with other red accessories unless they share the exact same shade – the Shicato red is distinctive and can clash with brighter or cooler reds. Instead, let the clip be the focal point against neutral tones like charcoal, camel, or cream.

Caring for Your Shicato Clip

Preserving the enamel and the metal mechanism requires a gentle approach. Here are the essential steps:

• Cleaning: Wipe the enamel surface with a soft, dry cloth after each wear. If the clip feels sticky, use a cotton bud barely dampened with distilled water – never soak the piece or use alcohol, which can dull the enamel.
• Felt pad maintenance: If the original felt has worn away, replace it with a small piece of archival felt cut to size. This prevents the metal from scratching your hair and keeps the clip gripping securely.
• Storage: Keep the clip in a dry, cool place away from direct sunlight, which can fade the red enamel over time. Wrap it in acid-free tissue paper and store it in a compartmented box separate from other metal accessories to avoid scratches.
• Spring care: If the spring becomes stiff, apply a tiny drop of sewing machine oil to the hinge pivot and work it gently. Do not use WD-40 or other penetrating oils – they can seep into the enamel and cause damage.
• Handling: Always hold the clip by the sides of the heart, not by the spring, to avoid bending the mechanism out of shape.

Before storing your Shicato clip for the season, wrap it in acid-free tissue and place it in a compartmented box away from other metal pieces – a small habit that will preserve its cheerful red finish for decades to come.