The Shicato Hearts Earring: A Collector’s Guide to the Store p117 Code

If you've ever sorted through a tray of mid-century jewellery at a Bermondsey market stall, you've probably spotted the distinctive silhouette of the Shicato Hearts Earring. The catalogues stamped it “Store p117” – a code that once sat in the ledgers of a small London wholesale house, but today it's a label that vintage collectors actively seek out. Understanding this earring isn't just about the heart shape; it's about knowing the materials, the maker's habits, and the tiny details that separate a genuine piece from a later copy.

Origin and Context of the Store p117 Code

The “Store p117” prefix appears on a narrow range of jewellery from the Shicato atelier, a family-run workshop in Clerkenwell, London, active from the late 1940s through the mid-1960s. Shicato specialised in romantic motifs – hearts, clovers, roses – and sold to independent department stores across the UK. The “p117” likely marks a specific production batch or a catalogue number used by the store that commissioned the earrings. Unlike mass-produced imports, these pieces were hand-assembled in small runs, which is why no two pairs are identical in their enamel work or stone setting.

Collectors often confuse the Store p117 Shicato Hearts Earring with similar heart-shaped earrings from other British makers like Sphinx or Janeza. One key difference is the earring back: Shicato used a solid, slightly domed push-back with a faint “S” stamp near the hinge. The post itself is usually a 9-carat gold-filled wire, not plated brass. If you see a flat, unmarked clip-on backing, you're likely looking at a different manufacturer.

Materials and Construction

The vast majority of authentic Shicato Hearts Earrings are made from sterling silver, sometimes with a light gold wash. The heart shape is formed from two pieces of metal soldered together, creating a hollow interior that keeps the earring lightweight. The front face is then decorated with one of three techniques:

• Champlevé enamel – Intricate cells are carved into the metal and filled with coloured glass paste, then fired. The most common colours are deep navy, emerald green, and a pale coral pink.
• Paste stone setting – A single faceted paste stone (often a ruby or sapphire simulant) is set in a six-claw mount at the centre of the heart. The claw count is a reliable marker: Shicato used exactly six claws, never four or eight.
• Engraved and oxidised – A simpler version with a finely engraved pattern (scrolls or leaves) on a matte silver background, with the recessed lines darkened by oxidation. This variety is rarer and typically predates 1955.

Below is a quick reference table for the three main variants you might encounter:

Variant	Primary Material	Decoration	Approx. Years
Enamel Heart	Sterling silver	Champlevé enamel	1952–1960
Paste Stone Heart	Sterling silver with gold wash	Faceted paste stone in six-claw mount	1955–1964
Engraved Heart	Sterling silver	Hand-engraved with oxidised recesses	1948–1955

Identifying Authenticity: What to Look For

Because the Shicato Hearts Earring has grown in popularity among vintage lovers, reproductions have appeared, especially from overseas sellers. To avoid disappointment, examine these three details:

1. Hallmarks and Stamps

Genuine examples carry a small “STERLING” or “925” stamp on the inside of the earring post, not on the decorative face. The “S” mark on the push-back is tiny—about 1 mm high—and often worn. A magnifying loupe with 10x magnification is essential for verification.

2. Weight and Feel

Hollow construction means the earring should feel light for its size. A pair that feels unexpectedly heavy may be solid metal, which is not characteristic of Shicato. Additionally, the earring backs are made of a slightly springy nickel-silver alloy; they should close with a soft click, not a hard snap.

3. Enamel Surface

Original champlevé enamel is slightly recessed below the metal walls. Run your fingernail gently across the surface – if it feels perfectly flush or slightly raised, the enamel is likely a modern epoxy resin applied over the metal, not fired glass. True vintage enamel will have tiny bubbles or slight unevenness in colour, a sign of hand-firing.

Care and Storage for the Long Term

Vintage Shicato earrings need gentle handling, especially the enamel variants. The fired glass is durable but can crack if dropped on a hard surface. Here are practical steps for keeping your pair in excellent condition:

• Clean sparingly – Use a soft, dry cotton cloth to remove surface oils. For deeper cleaning, dip a cotton bud in warm water with a drop of mild dish soap, then pat dry immediately. Never soak the earrings, as moisture can get trapped inside the hollow heart.
• Store separately – Place each earring in its own soft pouch or in a compartmented box. The metal backs can scratch the enamel if left loose in a drawer.
• Avoid polish on enamel – Silver polish will dull the enamel surface. Use a dedicated silver polishing cloth only on the metal parts, and keep the cloth away from the coloured areas.
• Control humidity – Store with a small silica gel packet in your jewellery box, especially if you live in a damp climate. The nickel-silver backs can tarnish, but a dry environment slows that process significantly.

Pairing the Shicato Hearts Earring with Vintage Hair Accessories

While the earring itself is not a hair accessory, its mid-century aesthetic makes it a natural companion to the hairpieces you already collect. The heart motif echoes the romantic curves found in many vintage hair clips and combs from the same period. For instance, the The Quiet Elegance of Vintage Romaine Clips: A Collector's Guide describes a clip whose elongated leaf shape balances the roundness of the heart earring perfectly. Wearing both together creates a coherent 1950s silhouette without looking costume-like.

If you prefer a more structured look, the The Salome Headband: History, Identification, and Styling Tips offers a sculptural metal band that pairs well with the paste-stone version of the Shicato earring. The key is to keep the metal tones consistent—silver with silver, gold with gold—and let the heart shape be the focal point.

Where to Hunt for Store p117 Shicato Hearts Earrings

Because the production runs were small, you won't find these earrings at every vintage fair. Focus your search on:

• British vintage jewellery dealers who specialise in 1950s–1960s costume jewellery. Many of them know the “p117” code and list it in their descriptions.
• Estate sales in the UK, particularly in the Home Counties where Shicato’s original retail clients were located. A pair might be tucked inside a forgotten jewellery roll.
• Online auction sites with good photographs. Search for “Shicato earrings” and “p117 earrings” separately. Be prepared to examine the photos for the hallmark and the six-claw setting.

One final tip: don't be discouraged by missing earring backs. Original Shicato backs are fragile and often lost. Replacements can be sourced from a vintage jewellery restorer, but ask for a period-appropriate type – a modern plastic back will ruin the look. A good restorer can also reattach loose enamel using a conservation-grade adhesive, but that's a topic for another article.