Ribbon Revival: The Story of Ric Rac in British Hair Accessories

Among the quiet treasures of vintage haberdashery, few trims carry the same playful yet refined character as ric rac braid. In British millinery and hair accessory making, this zigzag ribbon found its way onto barrettes, headbands, and combs from the 1920s well into the 1970s. Understanding what makes a ric rac accessory desirable, how to identify quality examples, and how to wear them today opens a small but rewarding corner of vintage collecting.

What Exactly Is Ric Rac?

Ric rac is a flat, woven braid with a continuous zigzag shape. Unlike a simple scalloped edge, the braid itself forms a symmetrical series of points, creating a distinctive sawtooth silhouette when laid flat. Historically, it was made from cotton, rayon, or silk, and later from synthetic fibres such as polyester and nylon. The width varied from a delicate 3 mm to a bold 15 mm, with the narrower gauges used for edging and the wider ones for statement trims.

In Britain, ric rac was a staple of home sewing and dressmaking from the interwar period onward. It appeared on children’s dresses, aprons, and, crucially, on hair accessories sold in department stores and independent millinery shops. The braid’s structure allowed it to be sewn or glued onto metal or plastic hair clips without fraying, and its repeating geometric pattern added texture without overwhelming the overall design.

Collectors today look for ric rac in colours that were characteristic of their era. Pastel pinks, mint greens, and baby blues suggest the 1950s, while mustard yellow, olive, and burnt orange point to the late 1960s and early 1970s. White and black ric rac are perennial staples and often appear on accessories that were meant to be worn with multiple outfits.

Construction and Materials: What to Look For

Not all ric rac hair accessories are equal. The most desirable pieces from a collector’s perspective share several consistent features.

• Base material: Early examples (pre‑1950) often used a metal spring clip or a tortoiseshell‑effect celluloid comb as the foundation. The ric rac was hand‑stitched or glued with a clear resin that has darkened slightly with age. Later pieces from the 1960s and 1970s tend to use injection‑moulded polystyrene or acrylic clips, with the ric rac heat‑bonded or fixed with industrial adhesive.
• Braid quality: Vintage ric rac was woven more tightly than most modern reproductions. When held up to the light, the threads should be even and the zigzag points crisp. Loose, floppy braid or uneven dye indicates a lower‑grade piece or a later mass‑produced item.
• Signs of use: Light wear is acceptable and often adds character, but check for fraying at the attachment points. A clip whose ric rac is lifting at the edges can be re‑glued with a conservation‑grade fabric glue, but missing sections are difficult to replace with a matching width and colour.

One particularly charming subtype is the ric rac headband, where a single length of wide braid is stretched over a wire or plastic frame and fastened at the ends with a small metal buckle or elastic loop. These were popular in the 1950s as an alternative to ribbon headbands, offering a more casual, slightly whimsical look.

Eras and Silhouettes: When Ric Rac Shone

Ric rac enjoyed three distinct peaks in British hair accessories.

1920s–1930s: The Flapper Influence

During the Art Deco period, ric rac appeared on small decorative combs worn at the side of the head. These combs were often made of celluloid or early Bakelite, with a short strip of ric rac glued into a recessed channel. The effect was subtle — a flash of zigzag colour against the hair. These pieces are rare today because the adhesive of the time was prone to drying out, and many combs lost their trim. A surviving example with intact braid is a genuine find.

1950s: The Golden Age

The 1950s were the heyday of ric rac in British fashion. Hair was worn short and sculpted, often with a band or barrette that added a decorative note. Ric rac barrettes in candy colours were sold at shops like Woolworths, Boots, and independent department stores. They were affordable, cheerful, and easy to pair with the full skirts and fitted cardigans of the era. This is the period from which most surviving examples come, and it is the richest hunting ground for collectors.

1970s: Bohemian Revival

In the 1970s, ric rac returned in earthy tones and wider widths. It appeared on fabric headbands worn with flowing maxi dresses and on large plastic hair claws. The aesthetic was less polished than the 1950s pieces — the braid was often left raw at the ends, and the clips were chunkier. These later pieces are more common and generally less expensive, but they have their own appeal for those who love the boho look. For guidance on pairing such accessories with period clothing, the article on the Empire Waist Maxi Dress offers practical advice on creating a cohesive vintage silhouette.

How to Wear Ric Rac Accessories Today

The key to wearing a vintage ric rac piece in a modern context is restraint. Because the braid is inherently busy, it works best as a single accent. A small ric rac barrette pinned at the temple or at the nape of the neck adds a discreet pop of colour without competing with the rest of the outfit. A wider ric rac headband can be worn with a plain top or a simple shift dress, letting the accessory speak for itself.

For those who prefer a more layered look, ric rac pairs well with other textured accessories. A tortoiseshell clip, for instance, provides a neutral counterpoint to the braid’s pattern. The Filo Tortoiseshell Hair Clip is a good companion piece, as its warm brown tones complement both pastel and earth‑coloured ric rac without clashing.

When styling ric rac, avoid adding further patterns — no floral prints, no large polka dots, no stripes. Let the zigzag be the single graphic element. This approach keeps the look intentional rather than chaotic.

Care and Conservation

Vintage ric rac is more fragile than it appears. The fibres, especially if cotton or rayon, can become brittle over decades. To clean a ric rac accessory, use a soft, dry brush to remove dust. Never soak the piece, as water can weaken the adhesive and distort the braid. If the braid has become limp, you can sometimes revive it by holding it briefly over steam from a kettle (not boiling water) — the moisture can help the fibres relax. Let the piece dry completely before wearing or storing.

Store ric rac accessories flat in a drawer or box, away from direct sunlight, which fades the dye unevenly. Do not hang them, as the weight of the clip can stretch the braid over time. With proper care, a well‑made ric rac barrette or headband can remain wearable for decades more.

For collectors just starting out, the most reliable way to build a small ric rac collection is to search for pieces with intact braid in clear, unfaded colours. Avoid anything with rust on the metal clip or cracks in the plastic base. A single 1950s ric rac barrette in good condition, worn with a modern outfit, becomes a conversation piece — a tangible link to a time when a simple zigzag trim could make an accessory memorable.