The Wavy Trim That Defined British Hair Accessories: A Collector’s Guide to Vintage Ric Rac

The zigzag ribbon known as ric rac has adorned British hair accessories since the 1940s, yet its name remains a mystery to many collectors. This narrow, undulating trim – often called “baby ric rac” in its smallest gauge – was originally a functional binding for hems and seams before milliners and hair accessory makers recognised its decorative potential. Today, vintage ric rac hair slides, headbands, and barrettes are quietly sought after by those who appreciate the playful texture and nostalgic charm of this wavy trim.

What Exactly Is Ric Rac?

Ric rac is a flat braid woven to form a continuous zigzag pattern. It is typically made from cotton, rayon, or polyester, though vintage examples from the 1940s through 1960s are almost exclusively cotton or rayon. The term “ric rac” is an Americanisation of the French recrac, meaning “back and forth”, which perfectly describes its serpentine shape. In the UK, it was sometimes sold as “zigzag braid” or “wave braid” in haberdashery shops. The trim comes in several widths: the narrowest (about 3 mm) was used for delicate hair accessories, while wider versions (up to 15 mm) appeared on headbands and large hair bows.

Ric Rac in British Hair Accessories: A Timeline

1940s – Utility and Charm

During the war years and the subsequent austerity period, ric rac was a popular choice for home-sewn hair accessories because it was affordable and readily available. Women would stitch a single strip of ric rac onto a plain hair slide or a fabric-covered comb to add a touch of colour without using scarce metal or elastic. The trim’s playful waves lifted the mood of utilitarian designs.

1950s – The Golden Age

The 1950s saw ric rac used extensively in teenage and children’s hair accessories. Bright pastel shades – mint green, baby pink, butter yellow, and sky blue – were paired with white or cream bases. Hair slides with two or three parallel rows of ric rac became a staple of schoolgirl wardrobes. The trim also appeared on the edges of fabric headbands and on the tails of ribbon bows.

1960s – Mod and Minimalist

In the 1960s, ric rac was used more sparingly. A single strip might be centred on a sleek metal barrette, or used as a border on a velvet-covered hair clip. The colour palette shifted to bolder contrasts: black ric rac on white, or white on navy. Some high-end accessories used ric rac made from silk or acetate for a subtle sheen.

1970s–1980s – Revival and Decline

The 1970s brought a revival of folk-inspired styles, and ric rac reappeared on headbands and wide hair combs. By the 1980s, however, mass-produced plastic accessories largely replaced fabric trims, and ric rac became less common. Today, vintage examples from the 1940s to 1960s are the most collectable.

Types of Ric Rac Hair Accessories Collectors Should Know

• Ric Rac Hair Slides – Metal or plastic slides with the trim glued or stitched along the top. Look for examples where the ric rac is sewn, not just glued; sewn trim indicates higher quality and better preservation.
• Ric Rac Headbands – Fabric-covered headbands (often velvet or grosgrain) with ric rac stitched along the edge. The trim helps prevent slipping, making them both decorative and functional.
• Ric Rac Barrettes – Flat barrettes with ric rac forming a chevron or layered pattern. Some have multiple rows in alternating colours.
• Ric Rac Hair Bows – Pre-tied fabric bows where ric rac is used as a border or as the entire bow material. These are delicate and often require careful handling.
• Ric Rac Combs – Decorative combs with ric rac woven through the teeth or attached along the spine. These are rarer and highly prized.

Materials and Construction Techniques

Authentic vintage ric rac from the mid-20th century is almost always cotton or rayon. Cotton ric rac holds its shape well and can be gently hand-washed, while rayon has a softer drape but is more susceptible to fading. The trim was usually attached to the accessory with small, even hand stitches using matching thread. Machine stitching was used for mass-produced items, but the best examples show meticulous handwork. When examining a potential purchase, check the underside of the trim: if you see a neat running stitch, it was likely made by a skilled craftsperson.

Styling Vintage Ric Rac Accessories with a Modern Wardrobe

Ric rac accessories bring a gentle whimsy to contemporary outfits without looking costumed. Here are a few ways to incorporate them:

• Pair a pastel ric rac slide with a simple white blouse and tailored trousers. The trim adds a pop of colour and texture that echoes mid-century femininity without overwhelming the look.
• Use a ric rac headband to anchor a messy bun or low ponytail. Choose a headband in a neutral tone like ivory or navy for everyday wear, or a bright shade for summer festivals.
• Layer multiple ric rac barrettes on one side of the head. This works especially well with short hair or a pixie cut, creating a playful, asymmetrical effect.
• Tuck a ric rac hair slide into a half-up style. Let the zigzag edge peek out from behind the ear for a subtle vintage accent.

Because ric rac is a trim rather than a solid accessory, it tends to blend well with both casual and dressy looks. Avoid pairing it with other heavily patterned hair accessories – let the ric rac be the focal point.

Care and Preservation of Ric Rac Accessories

Vintage ric rac can be fragile, especially if the trim is made from rayon or has been exposed to light for decades. Follow these guidelines to keep your pieces in good condition:

• Store flat – Never hang ric rac accessories, as the trim can stretch or distort. Lay them in a drawer lined with acid-free tissue paper.
• Keep away from direct sunlight – Ultraviolet light fades the colours of cotton and rayon ric rac. Store in a dark box or drawer.
• Clean with care – For metal or plastic slides with ric rac attached, wipe the trim with a barely damp cloth. Do not submerge the whole accessory unless you are certain the trim is colourfast. Test a hidden spot first.
• Remove creases gently – If the ric rac has flattened or wrinkled, use a handheld steamer held at arm’s length to steam the trim lightly. Never apply a hot iron directly to the trim – the heat can melt synthetic threads or scorch cotton.
• Repair loose edges – If a stitch has broken, use a fine needle and thread that matches the trim colour to reattach it. A tiny dab of fabric glue can secure the very end, but avoid glue that might seep through and stiffen the fabric.

Where to Look for Vintage Ric Rac Hair Accessories

British charity shops, vintage fairs, and online marketplaces are the best sources. Look for accessories marked “Made in England” or with labels from small haberdashery brands. The trim itself often gives away the era: 1940s ric rac tends to be slightly uneven in width, while 1950s examples are more uniform. Pay attention to the condition of the trim – fraying, discolouration, or missing sections are common, but a single missing zigzag can sometimes be repaired by carefully weaving in a matching piece of new ric rac. For serious collectors, the thrill lies in finding an accessory where the ric rac is still crisp and bright, a small piece of mid-century craftsmanship that has survived decades of dressing tables and dance halls.