Challenging the Trends of 1917: Edwardian Hair Accessories

In 1917, the British War Office issued a directive restricting the use of metals for non-essential items, including hairpins and decorative slides. This single wartime measure reshaped the landscape of hair accessories, forcing manufacturers to turn to materials that had previously been considered second-tier: celluloid, horn, and early plastics. The result was a remarkable burst of creativity in design and technique that still offers lessons for anyone seeking alternatives to today's fast-fashion hair accessories.

The Metal Shortage of 1917 and Its Effect on Hair Accessories

Before 1914, the average British woman owned at least two metal hairpins and often a silver or brass slide. By 1917, copper, brass, and steel were redirected to munitions and military equipment. Hair accessory manufacturers responded by patenting new alloys and, more significantly, by perfecting the production of celluloid—a semi-synthetic material derived from camphor and nitrocellulose. Celluloid could be moulded, carved, and polished to imitate tortoiseshell, ivory, and even jet. The trend of the 1910s was not a retreat into austerity but a deliberate embrace of ingenuity.

Materials That Defined the Era: Celluloid, Horn, and Tortoiseshell Substitutes

Three materials dominated the 1917 hair accessory market:

• Celluloid – Often marketed as 'French Ivory' or 'Ivorine', it was lightweight, warm to the touch, and could be dyed in rich amber, tortoiseshell, or deep green tones. Its main drawback was flammability, but for everyday use it was a practical and beautiful alternative to metal.
• Horn – Genuine cattle horn was steamed and pressed into flat sheets, then carved into combs and barrettes. It has a natural translucency and a subtle grain that celluloid tried to imitate. Horn was durable and could be repaired by gentle heating.
• Early casein plastics – Made from milk protein, these were less common but appeared in smaller decorative pieces. They were harder than celluloid but more brittle.

These materials challenged the notion that only metal or precious stones could signify quality. A well-made celluloid comb from 1917 can still hold its shape and lustre a century later, provided it is stored away from direct heat and light.

Silhouettes of 1917: The Low Bun and the Side Comb

As skirts became shorter and hemlines rose during the war, hairstyles also simplified. The elaborate pompadours of the Edwardian decade gave way to the low chignon, often worn slightly to one side. A single large comb—sometimes called a 'side comb' or 'banana comb'—was inserted vertically to secure the roll of hair. These combs could be as long as six inches and were often ornately carved with scrolling foliage or geometric motifs. The silhouette was clean, elegant, and practical for women working in factories or volunteer hospitals.

For evening occasions, smaller hairpins with decorative heads—often shaped like flowers or leaves—were used to pin back loose curls. These were made from the same substitute materials, proving that wartime restrictions did not diminish the desire for ornamentation.

How to Wear an Edwardian Comb with a Modern Outfit

Bringing a 1917 comb into a contemporary wardrobe requires a shift in perspective. Rather than trying to recreate a full period hairstyle, let the accessory stand as a singular focal point. A low, loose bun secured with a single horn comb works beautifully with a tailored blazer and wide-leg trousers. For shorter hair, a celluloid side comb can be tucked behind the ear to hold back a section of hair, adding a subtle gleam to an otherwise simple ponytail. The key is contrast: the soft, organic glow of aged celluloid or horn against the clean lines of modern clothing creates a quiet statement that does not shout 'vintage' but whispers 'considered'.

As we explored in a second look at the March 2017 archives, Edwardian combs often featured intricate hand-carving that no modern machine quite replicates. That individuality is precisely what makes them so versatile today.

Care for 1910s Celluloid and Horn Accessories

Owning a piece from 1917 means committing to careful preservation. Celluloid is sensitive to heat and can warp or even spontaneously combust if left near a radiator. Store combs flat in a fabric-lined box, away from sunlight. Horn, on the other hand, can dry out and crack in very dry air; a light wipe with a tiny amount of natural oil (such as jojoba) once a year helps maintain its flexibility. Never soak either material in water. To clean, dust gently with a soft brush or a dry microfiber cloth. If a comb has lost its shine, a polish with a specialised plastic polish (for celluloid) or a very fine abrasive paste (for horn) can restore it, but test on an inconspicuous area first.

Where to Find Authentic 1917 Pieces

Because 1917 was a peak year for celluloid production, these pieces are still relatively common at vintage fairs, antiques markets, and online auctions. Look for stamps like 'French Ivory', 'Celluloid', or 'Ivorine' on the back of the comb. Horn pieces often have no stamp but will feel slightly heavier and have a faint organic smell when warmed. Be wary of later reproductions from the 1970s that mimic the style but use modern plastics; they lack the specific patina and weight of the originals. When you next handle a comb stamped with the words 'French Ivory', know that you are holding a piece of history that challenged the very definition of luxury. Let that knowledge guide your choice, not the passing whim of a seasonal trend.