Blog Cowboys and Platforms: A Collector’s Guide to Vintage Hair Combs

The phrase 'blog cowboys and platforms' sounds like a cross between a Western and a tech conference, but for collectors of vintage hair accessories, it points to a very specific moment in British fashion history. It emerged from early online forums, where dealers needed shorthand for two distinct categories of mid-century hair ornaments that were frequently confused.

The 'cowboys' are a style of decorative hair comb, often made from celluloid or early plastics, with a deeply curved, almost saddle-shaped top bar. These combs sat low on the back of the head, their prongs curving inward to grip a heavy chignon or a rolled-under bob. The name comes from the comb's silhouette, which resembles the wide brim of a cowboy hat when viewed from above. The 'platforms' are their opposite: flat, wide, often rectangular or oval hair clips that sit flush against the crown, creating a literal platform for elaborate bows, flowers, or sculptural metallic details. Both were wildly popular in Britain from the late 1940s through the mid-1960s, yet they served entirely different structural purposes in a hairstyle.

Why the Confusion Matters for the Collector

For a new collector, mistaking a 'cowboy' for a 'platform' often leads to a disappointing purchase. A cowboy comb is engineered for grip and volume. Its curved back is not a design quirk; it mirrors the shape of a French roll or a pompadour. If you try to use a cowboy comb as a flat clip to secure a side section, it will sit awkwardly, its prongs pushing the hair away rather than holding it. A platform, by contrast, is built for stability on a flat surface. It is the stage, not the actor. Understanding this distinction is the first step in building a collection that actually works with your hair type and your intended hairstyle, rather than one that simply looks pretty in a display box.

The materials used also tell a story. Early cowboy combs were often made from tortoiseshell-effect celluloid, a lightweight material that could be heated and bent into that distinctive saddle shape. Later versions from the 1950s used polystyrene or acrylic, which were cheaper but less flexible. Platforms, on the other hand, frequently employed metal bases—brass or silver-plated—onto which fabric flowers or velvet bows were glued. This made them heavier and more prone to tarnishing, but also gave them a sculptural quality that the celluloid cowboys lacked. A quick test: if the ornament feels substantial and has a flat back with a small metal clip, it is almost certainly a platform. If it is all one piece of horn or plastic with a deep curve, you are holding a cowboy.

Identifying a Genuine 'Cowboy' Comb

When you are at a flea market or scrolling through an online auction, look for three key features. First, the prongs: a genuine cowboy comb will have between five and nine prongs, thick at the base and tapering to a rounded point. The prongs are not parallel; they fan out slightly, then curve inward. Second, the top bar: it should be at least 10 centimetres wide for an adult size, and the curve should be pronounced—imagine the cross-section of a boat hull. Third, the decoration: cowboy combs are rarely covered in rhinestones. They rely on the beauty of the material itself—a deep mottled amber, a rich tortoiseshell, or a subtle pearlised finish. If you see a heavily bejewelled comb with a curved top, it is likely a later imitation or a piece that has been altered.

One of the best places to study these details is the October 2016 Archives, which contain a remarkable series of photographs showing the exact curvature of these combs against period hairstyles. The lighting in those photographs reveals the subtle translucency of the celluloid, a quality that is lost in modern reproductions.

Platforms, by contrast, are all about the top surface. The clip mechanism is almost always a simple alligator clip or a spring-loaded barrette, and the platform itself is a flat metal or plastic rectangle, oval, or shield shape. The decoration—whether it is a cluster of fabric roses, a silk bow, or a metal filigree butterfly—is glued or riveted onto this flat base. Because the base is flat, the ornament sits parallel to the head, which is why they work so well for tucking behind the ear or anchoring a side sweep of hair. A platform clip should feel balanced; if the ornament is too heavy for the clip, it will slide down within an hour of wear.

How to Wear Them Today Without Looking Like a Period Piece

The beauty of both these forms is that they slot into a contemporary wardrobe with surprising ease, provided you treat them as an accent rather than a full costume. A single cowboy comb, worn low at the nape of the neck, can anchor a loose low ponytail or a twisted bun. The key is to let the comb do the work: twist the hair into a simple knot, slide the comb in from the bottom, and let the curve hug the shape of the bun. The comb itself becomes the statement, so keep the rest of your outfit clean—a fine-gauge cashmere jumper, a crisp white shirt, or a simple silk slip dress.

Platform clips are even more versatile. Because they sit flat, they can be used to add a pop of texture and colour to a sleek, modern cut. A platform clip with a single velvet bow, worn slightly off-centre at the temple, pairs beautifully with a tailored blazer and wide-leg trousers. The contrast between the soft, tactile bow and the sharp lines of a modern suit is precisely the kind of tension that makes vintage accessories feel current. For a subtler look, choose a platform clip in a metal finish—silver or gunmetal—and wear it to secure a side part in otherwise straight, glossy hair. The flat, geometric shape of the platform echoes the clean lines of contemporary jewellery.

Care and Handling: Two Very Different Approaches

Because the materials and construction differ so greatly, so does the care routine. Cowboy combs made from celluloid are notoriously sensitive to heat and light. Never leave one on a sunny windowsill or near a radiator. The material can warp, bubble, or even become sticky if exposed to high temperatures. Store them flat, in a dark box, preferably wrapped in acid-free tissue paper. If a celluloid comb becomes cloudy, a very gentle wipe with a soft, dry cloth is all you should attempt. Do not use water or cleaning solvents; they will damage the surface permanently.

Platform clips require a different kind of vigilance. The metal clip mechanism is the most common point of failure. If the spring feels loose, do not force it open. You can gently tighten the spring by squeezing the loop at the hinge with a pair of needle-nose pliers, but only if you are confident in your hand. The fabric or paper flowers on a platform clip are fragile. Dust them with a soft, dry paintbrush, and if a petal becomes loose, a tiny dab of archival-quality glue (pH-neutral, acid-free) on the tip of a toothpick can reattach it. Never soak a platform clip in water; the glue will dissolve, and the metal may rust.

For a deeper dive into the seasonal care routines that keep these pieces in museum-quality condition, the July 2018 Archive offers a thorough guide to summer storage, including advice on humidity control and the best types of acid-free boxes for platform clips with delicate fabric elements.

Building a Collection with Intention

If you are just starting to collect, resist the urge to buy every pretty comb you see. Focus instead on acquiring one excellent example of each type. Look for a cowboy comb with intact prongs and no cracks in the curve. Look for a platform clip with its original ornamentation intact—missing flowers or bows are very difficult to replace authentically. Once you have handled these two archetypes, you will develop an instinct for quality that will serve you well when you encounter rarer variations, such as the double-platform clips used for elaborate updos in the late 1950s, or the miniature cowboy combs made for young girls.

Next time you're at a flea market, run your thumb along the back of a comb. If it curves like the hull of a boat, you've found a cowboy. If it's flat and heavy, it's a platform. That simple test is all you need to tell them apart—and to start building a collection that actually works.