The p523 Arizona Bow Barrette: A British Hair Clip with Southwestern Style

Among the numbered pieces in the Maison Archives collection, the p523 Arizona bow barrette is an unusual hybrid: a British-made hair clip that borrows its colour palette and ornament from the American Southwest. Its bow is sculpted from warm honey tortoiseshell acetate, with a small silver-tone medallion at the knot that carries a hand-stamped star. The spring clip on the back is marked 'Made in England', which places it in a tradition of post-war accessory manufacturing rather than imported tourist trinket. At roughly seven centimetres across, it has a satisfying weight in the hand—not so heavy that it pulls at the hair, but substantial enough to feel like a considered object.

A Bow Silhouette with a Transatlantic Story

The bow has never really left the vocabulary of British hair accessories. In the 1940s, fabric bows were a practical way to dress up a rationed hairstyle. The 1950s brought the New Look, with its emphasis on soft, feminine lines, and bows were everywhere—tied at the neck, perched on the crown, or clipped at the side of a short cut. By the 1960s, moulded plastic versions in bright colours became a high-street staple, and the bow was no longer just a romantic gesture; it was a graphic shape, often worn with geometric shift dresses and white boots.

The Arizona bow belongs to a slightly later moment, when the British fashion industry began looking west for inspiration—not to Hollywood glamour, but to the desert landscapes and Native American jewellery of the American Southwest. The name 'Arizona' was a way of evoking that sun-bleached, turquoise-and-silver aesthetic, even though the barrette was almost certainly designed and assembled in a British workshop. It was a common practice in the 1960s and 1970s to give British-made accessories exotic names—Riviera, Capri, Arizona—to suggest a holiday mood. The Arizona bow, however, is more subtle than its name suggests. There is no turquoise enamel or heavy silver stamping; instead, the honey tortoiseshell acetate gives it a quiet, organic warmth, while the small star medallion adds just enough ornament to catch the light.

The Arizona name also carried a whiff of the open road. In Britain, 'Arizona' was used for everything from a popular cigarette brand to a holiday camp on the Isle of Wight. It suggested sunshine, space, and a break from the grey post-war years. For a hair accessory, that was an appealing fantasy—a way to wear a little of that optimism in your hair.

What sets the p523 apart from other bow barrettes of the period is its restraint. It is not covered in glitter or enamel flowers. It reads as a neutral—it works with a floral summer dress as easily as with a winter wool coat. It also suits a wide range of hair colours, from pale blonde to deep brunette, because the tortoiseshell tone is neither too dark nor too golden.

Materials and Construction

The barrette is made from cellulose acetate, a plant-based plastic that was widely used in British accessory manufacturing from the 1930s onwards. It has a depth of colour that modern injection-moulded plastics rarely achieve, and it polishes beautifully over time. The tortoiseshell effect is created by layering translucent and darker brown sheets, then pressing them together under heat. The result is a material that looks almost organic, with subtle variations in tone that make every piece slightly different.

The medallion at the centre is stamped with a small star—a detail that is easy to overlook but gives the piece its Southwestern character. It is fixed to the bow with a tiny prong, and the back of the medallion is slightly concave, which suggests it was die-struck rather than cast. This is a mark of quality: die-struck metalwork was more expensive to produce, and it was used for accessories that were intended to last.

The clip mechanism is a classic alligator spring clip, made of nickel-plated steel. When you press the two prongs together, the jaws open smoothly and snap shut with a reassuring click. This is a good sign: a worn clip will feel loose or catch on hair. The 'Made in England' stamp on the back is a useful clue for dating the piece. British-made hair accessories of this type were exported widely, but the stamp indicates that it was produced for the domestic market or for Commonwealth distribution.

Repairs are possible, but they require patience. A loose spring clip can be re-tensioned by a jeweller, and a separated layer of acetate can be glued with a specialist adhesive, though it is rarely worth the effort unless the piece has sentimental value. Replacing the metal clip with a modern one is an option, but it reduces authenticity, so most collectors prefer to keep the original mechanism even if it needs a little coaxing.

If you enjoy the tactile quality of tortoiseshell acetate, you will find a similar approach in the Maison Archives Filo Tortoiseshell Clip, another archive piece that shows how the material was shaped into a different silhouette. The Filo clip uses the same acetate but in a long, curved form, and comparing the two is a good way to learn how the material behaves.

How to Wear the Arizona Bow Today

The Arizona bow barrette is surprisingly versatile, largely because its scale and colour are easy to integrate into modern hairstyles. It measures roughly seven centimetres across, which is large enough to make a statement but not so large that it overwhelms a small head. It also has a low profile—the bow sits close to the hair, so it does not catch on coat collars or scarves.

Here are three reliable ways to wear it:

• Low chignon: Twist your hair into a loose bun at the nape of the neck and slide the barrette in at an angle, with the bow facing slightly outward. This works especially well with a silk scarf or a simple white shirt. The tortoiseshell tone adds warmth without competing with the outfit.
• Side-swept section: Clip the bow horizontally to hold back a deep side part. The medallion will sit just above the ear, echoing the way Western hair combs were worn in the 1940s. This is an easy way to dress up a casual ponytail or a blunt bob.
• Half-up style: Gather the top half of your hair and secure it with the bow at the crown. The honey tortoiseshell tone blends with most hair colours, while the silver star adds a subtle point of interest. For a more finished look, leave a few face-framing strands loose.

The barrette's size makes it suitable for medium to thick hair. If your hair is very fine, the clip may slip; a small section of backcombing at the root will give it more grip. On very thick or curly hair, the barrette can be used to hold a section that is already twisted, rather than trying to clasp the full width of the hair.

For a more polished look, pair the barrette with a velvet headband from the same era—the p241 Velvet Crown Headband is a mid-century millinery classic that shares the Arizona bow's understated elegance. The combination works best when the headband is worn slightly behind the hairline and the bow is placed at the side, not the centre. This creates a balanced profile that suits both day dresses and evening separates.

The barrette also works well with modern textures. Try it with a chunky knit jumper and corduroy trousers for a cosy autumn look, or with a linen shirt and wide-leg trousers in summer. Because the bow is not overtly feminine, it pairs nicely with tailored pieces—think of it as the accessory equivalent of a silk neck scarf.

Choosing and Caring for a Vintage Bow Barrette

If you are hunting for an Arizona bow barrette or a similar vintage piece, there are a few things to check before handing over your money.

• Acetate condition: Look for surface scratches that can be polished out, but avoid pieces with deep cracks or chips, especially near the clip hinges. A crack in the bow will only get worse with wear.
• Spring mechanism: Open and close the clip several times; it should feel firm and not wobble. A loose clip can sometimes be repaired, but it is better to start with a healthy one.
• Medallion and details: If the medallion is missing, the barrette loses much of its character, and finding an exact replacement is difficult. Check that the star stamp is still crisp; a worn stamp is fine, but a missing one is a red flag.

Once you have a piece you love, care for it gently. Cellulose acetate can be sensitive to water and heat, so keep the barrette away from hair dryers and styling tools. To clean it, wipe the surface with a soft, dry microfibre cloth. If the acetate has developed a slight haze, a tiny drop of mineral oil on a cotton bud can be rubbed over the surface, then buffed off with a clean cloth. Do not soak the clip or use alcohol-based cleaners, as these can strip the finish and damage the metal.

When storing the barrette, keep it in a lined jewellery box or a soft pouch, separate from metal accessories that could scratch it. A good habit is to lay it flat with the clip closed, so the spring does not stay under tension. And before you wear it, give the clip a quick test in your hand—there is nothing worse than a barrette that pops open halfway through a train journey.

When you come across a piece like the p523, take a moment to examine the small stamp on the back. It tells you not just where it was made, but when. The 'Made in England' mark was used for decades, but the style of the clip and the shape of the bow can help you place it in the late 1960s or early 1970s. Check the stamp, feel the weight of the clip, and let the bow find its place in your own rotation.