The p236 Kitty K Clip: A Collector’s Guide to a 1960s British Icon

The code p236 in the Maison Archives catalogue belongs to the Kitty K clip—a small cat-shaped hair accessory that has become a touchstone for British vintage collectors. Unlike the earlier p234 run, which featured a lighter enamel finish and a brushed brass back, the p236 variant introduces a deeper jet-black enamel and a high-polish nickel-silver clasp. This shift in materials was not arbitrary; it reflects a mid-1960s transition in the workshop’s supply chain, when nickel-silver became more readily available than brass. Understanding the p236 code means understanding a specific moment in the clip’s production history.

Decoding the p236 Code

Maison Archives used a simple but effective numbering system. The letter ‘p’ stands for ‘production’, and the three-digit number that follows indicates the batch sequence. The p236 batch was produced in late 1966, after the workshop moved from a small atelier in Soho to a larger space in Clerkenwell. This move allowed for more consistent temperature control during the enamel firing process, which is why the p236 clips show fewer air bubbles in the black enamel than earlier runs. Collectors often refer to the p236 as the ‘Clerkenwell batch’ because of this improvement. The code is stamped on the inner side of the spring mechanism, usually in a tiny serif font. If the stamp reads ‘p236’ without any additional letters, you have a true Clerkenwell piece.

The Kitty K Silhouette: A 1960s Icon

The Kitty K clip is a stylised cat’s head with pointed ears, a small nose, and two whisker-like incisions on each cheek. The design is minimal — no eyes, no mouth — yet the silhouette is instantly recognisable. It was created by a young designer named Margaret Keane (no relation to the painter) who worked for Maison Archives from 1963 to 1968. Keane drew inspiration from the geometric cat motifs seen in Bridget Riley’s Op Art textiles and the playful animal shapes used by Italian jewellery designer Elsa Peretti. The clip measures 3.2 cm in width and 2.1 cm in height, making it small enough to sit discreetly on a side part or a low ponytail. The p236 version retains these exact dimensions, but the enamel is slightly thicker, giving the clip a more substantial feel in the hand.

What Makes the p236 Variant Special

Beyond the improved enamel and the nickel-silver clasp, the p236 batch introduced a subtle change to the back of the clip. Earlier Kitty K clips had a flat, unmarked back, but the p236 pieces include a tiny engraved ‘M’ inside a circle — the Maison Archives hallmark. This hallmark is only visible under magnification and is often mistaken for a scratch by the untrained eye. For collectors, the presence of this hallmark is the single most reliable way to distinguish a p236 from a later reproduction. The p236 batch also used a slightly stronger spring, which means the clip holds better on fine hair without slipping.

This practical improvement was a direct response to customer feedback from the earlier p234 run, which had a tendency to loosen after a few months of wear.

Another detail that sets the p236 apart is the colour of the enamel. While earlier Kitty K clips came in a glossy black, the p236 uses a matte black with a faint charcoal undertone. This was achieved by adding a small amount of manganese dioxide to the enamel powder, a technique that was still experimental in the mid-1960s. The result is a black that absorbs light rather than reflecting it, giving the clip a velvety appearance that complements tweed and wool fabrics beautifully. If you hold a p236 next to a p234 under a bright lamp, the difference is unmistakable: the p234 looks shiny, almost plastic, while the p236 looks deep and soft.

How to Spot an Authentic p236 Clip

Because the Kitty K clip has been reproduced many times (especially in the 1990s and again in the 2010s), learning to identify an authentic p236 is essential. Here is a quick checklist:

• Back stamp: Look for the ‘p236’ stamp on the inner spring. The font should be serif, with the ‘2’ having a slight curl at the bottom.
• Hallmark: Use a jeweller’s loupe (10x magnification) to search for the tiny ‘M’ in a circle on the back of the clip, near the hinge.
• Enamel finish: The p236 enamel is matte, not glossy. Run your fingernail lightly over the surface — it should feel smooth but not slippery.
• Spring tension: An original p236 spring is firm but not stiff. If the clip opens too easily or feels loose, it may be a later reproduction.
• Weight: The p236 weighs 4.2 grams (slightly heavier than the p234’s 3.8 grams) due to the thicker enamel and nickel-silver clasp.

If you are buying online, ask the seller for a clear photo of the stamp and the back. Many vintage dealers are unaware of the p236 distinction and will list the clip simply as ‘vintage cat hair clip’. Knowing what to look for can save you from overpaying for a common reproduction.

Caring for Your Vintage Cat Clip

Once you have a p236 in your collection, treat it with the same care you would give a fine piece of jewellery. The matte enamel is more porous than glossy enamel, so it can absorb oils from your hair and skin over time. After each wear, wipe the clip gently with a soft, dry cloth (microfiber works well). Avoid using water or cleaning solutions, as moisture can seep into the spring mechanism and cause rust on the nickel-silver. Store the clip in a fabric-lined box or a small velvet pouch, separate from other metal accessories to prevent scratching. If the spring becomes stiff after years of storage, apply a single drop of sewing machine oil to the hinge and work it in by opening and closing the clip a few times. This is the same method used by vintage watch restorers and is perfectly safe for the p236’s mechanism.

Wearing the Kitty K Today

The p236 Kitty K clip is surprisingly versatile. Its small size and neutral black colour mean it pairs well with both casual and formal outfits. For a modern take, try clipping it onto a low, loose bun at the nape of the neck — the cat silhouette adds a touch of whimsy without looking costume-like. If you have short hair, the clip can be used to hold back a side section, or even worn as a lapel pin on a blazer (the spring mechanism grips fabric just as well as hair). The matte black enamel works especially well with autumn colours: rust, camel, olive, and burgundy.

Just as the Yin Yang Hair Claw carries symbolic weight in British vintage hair accessories, the Kitty K clip’s feline form evokes a playful yet sophisticated spirit that transcends decades.

Inspect the back stamp under a 10x loupe: the serif ‘M’ inside a circle is unmistakable. That tiny mark separates a genuine p236 from a clever reproduction.