Store P23 Sergio’s Platform Brogues: The Italian Handmade Shoe Vintage Lovers Want

The first time I slipped my foot into a pair of Store P23 Sergio's handmade Italian platform brogues, I understood immediately why collectors speak of them in hushed tones. The leather – a dense, waxy calfskin that had been burnished to a deep oxblood – yielded under my fingers with a suppleness that only comes from hours of hand-stitching. The platform, a solid inch of stacked leather and cork, lifted my heel just enough to change my posture without sacrificing the grounded stability that a good brogue demands. It doesn't shout; it reveals itself slowly, through the weight of its materials and the precision of its construction.

For the British vintage enthusiast, the brogue has long been a staple of the country wardrobe – think tweed skirts, woollen tights, and a sturdy lace-up that can handle a muddy lane. But the Store P23 Sergio's interpretation brings something unexpected: a distinctly Italian sensibility that softens the brogue's traditional austerity. The punching along the toe cap is finer, almost decorative, and the last is cut closer to the foot, creating a silhouette that feels both classic and contemporary. It is a shoe that belongs equally on a Cotswold country walk and at a Shoreditch gallery opening.

What Makes the Store P23 Sergio's Platform Brogue Different?

Three elements define this model: the platform, the broguing, and the hand-finishing. Together, they make a shoe that is collectable, not just functional.

The Platform

Platform soles in brogues are a relatively modern innovation, emerging in the late 1960s and early 1970s as part of a broader shift toward bolder footwear silhouettes. The Store P23 Sergio's platform is not the chunky, rubber-soled affair you might associate with 1970s disco shoes. Instead, it is a refined, layered construction of leather and cork, built on a wooden last that follows the natural curve of the foot. The result is a lift of approximately 2.5 centimetres – enough to elongate the leg without making you feel as though you are teetering. The cork midsole, visible at the edge of the sole, provides a slight shock absorption that makes these shoes surprisingly comfortable for all-day wear.

The Broguing

Traditional brogues originate from Scotland and Ireland, where the perforations were originally designed to let water drain out after crossing boggy terrain. The Store P23 Sergio's retains these decorative holes – the “W” shape across the toe cap, the medallion at the centre, and the subtle perforations along the heel counter – but executes them with a precision that speaks to its Italian heritage. Each hole is punched by hand, then bevelled with a hot tool to create a slight raised edge. This detail catches the light beautifully and gives the shoe a texture that machine-made brogues simply cannot replicate.

The Hand-Finishing

Sergio's workshop, located just outside Milan, has been producing shoes for independent boutiques since the 1950s. Each pair of Store P23 brogues is hand-lasted – meaning the leather is pulled over the wooden form and nailed into place before the sole is attached. The uppers are stitched with a technique called incavo, where the thread is hidden within a groove cut into the leather, protecting it from abrasion. The final polish is done with a blend of waxes and oils, applied in thin layers and buffed to a mirror-like shine. This level of hand-finishing is rare today, even among luxury brands, and it is the primary reason why a well-maintained pair of Sergio's brogues can last decades.

Styling the Store P23 Sergio's Platform Brogue with Vintage Accessories

One of the great pleasures of owning a shoe like this is the way it anchors an outfit, allowing you to experiment with accessories that might otherwise feel too fragile or precious. I have found that the oxblood colourway pairs beautifully with the deep blues and greens common in British vintage fashion. A tailored wool blazer in navy, a cream silk blouse with a pussy-bow, and a pair of these brogues creates a look that is both scholarly and subtly glamorous.

For those who love to coordinate their hair accessories with their footwear, the warm red tones of the brogues echo the garnet hues found in certain vintage hair clips. The Vintage Star Hair Clips: Ruby, Sapphire and Amber are a natural companion – the ruby star clip picks up the oxblood's undertones, while the amber adds a warm contrast that prevents the look from becoming too monochromatic. Alternatively, if you prefer a softer palette, the Enduring Charm of the Blue Velvet Crown Headband introduces a plush texture that plays against the brogue's polished leather without competing for attention.

How to Identify an Authentic Pair of Store P23 Sergio's Brogues

As with any desirable vintage item, the market has seen its share of look-alikes. Here are the key markers to check when you are hunting for an original pair:

• Stamping: Look inside the shoe for the Store P23 stamp, usually impressed into the leather lining along the heel. It should read “Store P23 – Sergio's – Handmade Italy” in a clean, serif font. Fakes often use a thinner, sans-serif stamp that rubs off easily.
• Construction: Genuine Sergio's brogues use a Goodyear welt, meaning the upper is stitched to a strip of leather (the welt) that is then stitched to the sole. You should be able to see a row of small, even stitches running around the perimeter of the sole. Cemented soles – where the sole is simply glued on – are a red flag.
• Leather quality: The calfskin on authentic pairs has a tight, even grain with no visible blemishes. It should feel firm but pliable, never plasticky. Run your finger along the edge of the toe cap – you should feel a slight ridge where the leather has been folded and stitched, not a sharp cut.
• Platform construction: The platform should be made of stacked leather and cork, not a single block of synthetic material. If you look at the side of the sole, you should see thin layers of leather separated by a darker line of adhesive. The cork midsole will have a slightly rough, textured appearance.
• Weight: A genuine pair of Store P23 Sergio's platform brogues is heavy – significantly heavier than a modern dress shoe. This is because of the solid leather and cork construction. If the shoes feel light, they are almost certainly not handmade.

Caring for Your Store P23 Sergio's Platform Brogues

These shoes are built to last, but they do require a certain level of care. The leather upper should be conditioned every two to three wears with a cream or balm that matches the colour – for oxblood, a neutral or burgundy cream works best. Avoid liquid polishes, which can dry out the leather and cause cracking over time. Instead, use a wax polish applied with a soft cloth in small circular motions, then buff with a horsehair brush to bring up the shine.

The cork midsole is more delicate. It can be cleaned with a soft brush and a damp cloth, but avoid soaking it, as moisture can cause the cork to degrade. If the cork becomes dry or starts to crumble, a thin layer of cork sealant – available from any good shoe repair shop – will restore its integrity. The leather sole should be fitted with a metal toe tap if you plan to wear the brogues regularly on pavement; this simple addition can extend the life of the sole by years.

When storing, always use shoe trees – preferably cedar, which absorbs moisture and helps the leather retain its shape. Keep the brogues in a cloth dust bag, away from direct sunlight and heat sources. Stick to this routine, and you'll still be wearing them in twenty years – the patina will only add to the story.

Where to Find Store P23 Sergio's Platform Brogues Today

These shoes were produced in limited quantities between the early 1970s and the mid-1980s, so they do not appear on the vintage market with great frequency. Specialist vintage shoe dealers in London – particularly those who focus on Italian footwear – are the most reliable source. Portobello Road Market on a Saturday morning sometimes yields a pair, though you will need to arrive early and be prepared to rummage. Online auction sites can be fruitful, but the risk of misrepresentation is higher; always ask for detailed photographs of the stamp, the welt stitching, and the platform edge before committing to a purchase.

Prices vary depending on condition and size. A pair in excellent condition – with original soles, minimal creasing, and the original box – can command anywhere from £150 to £350. Shoes that have been re-soled or show significant wear are more affordable, typically £80 to £120, but factor in the cost of restoration if you plan to wear them regularly.

A final word of advice: do not be discouraged if the pair you find is half a size too large. Sergio's brogues were built on generous lasts, and a well-chosen insole – leather, not foam – can easily adjust the fit. A half-size too small, however, is a deal-breaker; the toe box is not designed to stretch, and you will risk damaging the leather if you force it.