Vintage Star Hair Clips: Ruby, Sapphire and Amber
These three star-shaped clips are small enough to fit in a matchbox, but they carry more design history than many full-size pieces. A star-shaped hair clip is never a neutral choice: it says something about the wearer’s taste for geometry, glamour and a little bit of play. In British vintage shops, star clips turn up less often than flowers or bows, and when they do, colour is usually the first thing to catch the eye.
Why the Star Became a British Hair Accessory Motif
Stars arrived in British hair fashion in two distinct waves. The first was the 1920s, when Art Deco designers reduced natural forms to sharp geometric lines. A star could be cut from a sheet of coloured celluloid or stamped from brass with very little waste, which made it an ideal factory product. The second wave came in the late 1940s and 1950s, when Hollywood’s starlet culture reached British high streets. Small star clips suddenly appeared in jewellery counters, often paired with matching earrings and sold as sweetheart sets. Between those waves, the star also carried a quiet military echo: British badges and regimental insignia had used stars for centuries, so the motif felt familiar without being patriotic.
Three Colours, Three Personalities
Across surviving British star clips, three colour families dominate: ruby red, sapphire blue and amber tortoiseshell. They are not the only colours, but they are the ones that collectors most often encounter, and each points to a different era and technique. The names are worth learning, because period catalogues used them as if they were gemstones: ruby, sapphire, amber. That habit tells you how the trade wanted these small plastic stars to be seen—as jewels, not hair grips.
| Colour | Typical era | Common material | Modern pairing |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ruby red | 1940s–1950s | Celluloid, enamel, rhinestone | Black knit, tailored wool |
| Sapphire blue | 1920s–1930s | Bakelite, celluloid, brass | Navy blazer, grey flannel |
| Amber tortoiseshell | 1930s–1940s | Celluloid, casein | White shirt, denim |
Ruby Red: The Post-War Optimist
Ruby red is the colour of the 1940s and 1950s star clip. It appears in two forms: opaque red celluloid and enamel over brass. The most desirable pieces have a clear rhinestone set in the centre, so the star reads as a piece of jewellery rather than a simple hair grip. Red was not a subtle colour, and it was usually chosen by someone who wanted the clip to be seen. On a modern head, a single ruby star works best with a low chignon or a side parting, where the colour can sit against the hair without competing with a busy outfit. If the clip has a rhinestone, keep the rest of the metal jewellery minimal; the star is already making the statement.
Sapphire Blue: The Deco Geometric
Sapphire blue belongs to the earlier wave. In the 1920s, blue star clips were often cut from Bakelite or dark blue celluloid, with sharp points and a flat, geometric profile. They were designed to be worn in pairs, pinning back the bobbed hair that was fashionable after the First World War. Because the blue is so deep, these clips are easier to mix with modern tailoring than red ones. A sapphire star on a navy blazer collar can look like a brooch, even when it is actually holding back a strand of hair. The same clip also works well in a sleek low ponytail, where the geometric shape echoes the clean line of the cut.
Amber Tortoiseshell: The Quiet Classic
Amber tortoiseshell is not a bright colour, but it is the most versatile of the three. Real tortoiseshell was banned from new commercial use long ago, so vintage pieces in genuine tortoiseshell are rare and should be handled with care. More common are celluloid and casein imitations with the same warm brown swirls. These clips often have rounder points than the Deco stars, and they were made in large numbers during the 1930s and 1940s. The colour works with almost every hair shade, which is why amber tortoiseshell stars are the easiest to wear today. They also tolerate a little more contact with natural oils than painted clips, though they should never be soaked. On a modern head, an amber star beside a simple white shirt collar looks more like a piece of carved wood than a plastic accessory.
Materials and Making Techniques
To understand why these three colours survived, it helps to know how the clips were made. Celluloid was the workhorse of British hair accessory factories from the 1890s to the 1950s. It could be produced in translucent sheets, then cut and stamped into stars, or built up in layers to imitate tortoiseshell. Bakelite, a phenolic resin, was heavier and could be carved into bolder shapes; it was popular in the 1920s and 1930s for geometric designs. Casein, made from milk protein, was cheaper and took soft, even colours, but it was less resistant to heat and moisture. Enamel over brass was reserved for the more dressy pieces, often with a small rhinestone at the centre. Each material has a different feel in the hand: celluloid is light and slightly warm, Bakelite is dense and smooth, casein is dry and chalky. That tactility is part of the pleasure of collecting.
How to Date a Star Clip
Although not every star clip fits neatly into a decade, a few clues help. A flat, sharply pointed star with no decoration is likely from the 1920s. A smaller star with rounded points and a tortoiseshell finish is probably from the 1930s. A red or blue enamel star with a rhinestone centre dates from the late 1940s or 1950s. The most collectable are the 1950s demi-parure sets, which included a pair of clips and matching earrings. If you find a star clip with a single earring, it is still worth buying; the clip alone can be worn as a brooch.
Where to Look for Vintage Star Clips
Star clips hide in unexpected places. Because they are small, they often end up in mixed boxes of buttons, buckles and old jewellery. Charity shops and church fêtes in Britain are still surprisingly good sources, especially in market towns where untouched dressing-table sets surface after a house clearance. At antiques fairs, ask dealers if they have any hair jewellery tucked away; many keep star clips in drawers behind the counter because they are too small to display. Online auctions are useful, but search for star hair slide, star barrette and star comb as well as star clip; different regions used different names.
How to Spot a Good Vintage Star Clip
- Check the back. Die-stamped marks, patent numbers and small screws help date a clip. Many British pieces are unmarked, but a cleanly cut reverse side is a good sign.
- Look at the colour. Old celluloid should be even; fine cracks called crazing mean the material is becoming unstable.
- Test the hinge. Open and close the clip gently. A lazy hinge can sometimes be re-pinned, but a broken hinge on a tiny star is rarely worth repairing.
- Smell it. A faint camphor smell is normal for old celluloid. A sharp vinegar smell means the material is degrading and should be left on the stall.
- Avoid the hot-water test. The Bakelite test often seen online can warp or cloud a delicate clip, so it is better to rely on weight, colour and smell.
Wearing Star Clips with a Modern Wardrobe
Vintage star clips do not need a vintage outfit. A single ruby star at the temple can lift a plain white shirt and tailored trousers. Three tiny amber stars scattered along a centre parting look like a modern constellation, especially when the hair is pulled back tightly. A sapphire star clipped onto the strap of a simple tote bag works as a quiet nod to the past without touching the hair at all. If you are wearing a star clip on a windy day, place it close to the ear and use a second, invisible grip underneath; the star will stay put and the extra grip will not show.
Caring for Vintage Star Clips
The main enemies of vintage star clips are heat, moisture and sunlight. Store them flat in a lined box or a soft pouch, never hanging from their springs. Keep them away from radiators and direct sunlight, which can yellow or warp celluloid. To clean, wipe with a dry microfibre cloth. If a clip is sticky or dusty, barely dampen the cloth with water and dry the clip immediately. Do not use acetone, alcohol, jewellery cleaner or polish, because these can dissolve the surface of celluloid and enamel. For metal stars with rhinestones, avoid soaking altogether; water can loosen the stones and corrode the prongs. If a spring needs attention, a jeweller can often replace it, but ask for a non-invasive repair so the original character of the clip is preserved. When travelling, wrap each star clip in a small piece of acid-free tissue paper. Do not let clips touch each other in a bag; enamel and celluloid can mark one another.
One last detail: a star clip with a missing rhinestone is not necessarily a lost cause. A good jeweller can source a period-appropriate stone, and the small scar often makes the piece more affordable. If you find a ruby star with one empty setting, hold it up to the light first. Sometimes the empty socket is the best clue to how the clip was originally made—and how it should be worn.