Store C39 Maison Archives Hair Claws: A Collector’s Guide
When you open a drawer labelled C39 in the Maison Archives, you are not merely looking at a storage code. You are looking at a taxonomy of design history. The C39 designation refers to a specific generation of hair claws produced between the late 1970s and early 1980s, a period when British hair accessories shifted from delicate, hand-painted combs to bold, sculptural claws that could hold a voluminous perm or a teased crown with authority. These are not the lightweight plastic claws you find on a high-street accessory rack today. The C39 claws were moulded from cellulose acetate, often in deep tortoiseshell, jet black, or muted amber, and their teeth were cut with a precision that grips without snagging. Understanding the C39 code is the first step to becoming a serious collector of vintage British hair claws.
What Defines a C39 Hair Claw?
The Maison Archives system categorises accessories by era, material, and structural design. The C39 category is reserved for spring-loaded hair claws with a curved back plate and a hinge mechanism that distributes pressure evenly. Unlike earlier claw clips that relied on a simple pinch-and-hold action, the C39 claws use a metal spring encased in acetate, which gives them a satisfying snap when closed and a reliable hold even on thick or slippery hair. The teeth are long and slightly rounded at the tips, designed to slide through hair without catching on individual strands. Most C39 claws measure between 7 and 10 centimetres in length, making them suitable for half-up styles, French twists, and securing a chignon.
The materials tell a story of their own. The acetate used in C39 claws is thicker than that found in later mass-produced clips, and it was often hand-polished after moulding to achieve a lustre that mimics natural horn or tortoiseshell. Some rare examples feature a subtle marbling effect, where two tones of acetate were swirled together before curing. These marbled pieces are highly sought after by collectors, as the pattern is unique to each claw. You will occasionally find C39 claws with a small metal emblem on the back plate — a hallmark of makers such as Malena Dul or Shicato, though many remain unsigned, which adds an element of detective work to the hunt.
How the C39 Claw Fits into British Hair History
To understand the C39, you must place it in the context of the late 1970s. The punk movement had popularised extreme hairstyles, but by the end of the decade, a softer, more romantic silhouette emerged. Women wanted volume at the crown and sleekness at the nape — a look that required a strong, discreet grip. The C39 claw answered that need. It was practical enough for daily wear but elegant enough to appear in magazines like Harpers & Queen, where models wore them with silk blouses and tailored blazers. This was also the era when the British high street began to embrace acetate as a luxury material, and the C39 claw became a staple in department store haberdashery sections. Liberty London and Selfridges both carried them, often displayed in wooden trays alongside combs and barrettes.
The early 1980s saw the C39 design evolve. Manufacturers introduced claws with cut-out geometric patterns on the back plate, echoing the Art Deco revival that was sweeping interior design and fashion. These openwork claws are lighter than their solid counterparts and show off more of the hair beneath them — a clever visual trick that makes the wearer’s hair appear thicker. The most coveted C39 claws from this period are those with a subtle pearlised finish, achieved by adding mica powder to the acetate before moulding. They catch the light gently, never garishly, and they pair beautifully with the muted tones of a vintage Crimplene dress or a tweed blazer.
Identifying an Authentic C39 Claw
Collecting C39 claws requires a trained eye. The first thing to check is the hinge. Authentic C39 claws have a metal hinge pin that is visible on the sides of the clip, not a plastic moulded hinge that is flush with the body. The spring should be sturdy but not stiff; if it resists when you press it, the claw may have been stored with the spring compressed for decades, which can cause fatigue. Gently open and close the claw a few times to test the action. The teeth should align perfectly when closed — any gap indicates warping, which can happen if the claw was stored near a heat source or in direct sunlight.
Next, examine the surface. Cellulose acetate develops a subtle patina over time, a slight yellowing or darkening that gives the material depth. If a claw looks unnaturally bright and uniform in colour, it may be a modern reproduction. Look also for the mould seam. Vintage acetate claws have a fine seam along the edges where the two halves of the mould met. Modern claws are often polished to remove this seam entirely, but on a genuine C39, you can feel it with your fingertip. It is not a flaw; it is a fingerprint of the manufacturing process.
Finally, check for the maker’s mark. While many C39 claws are unsigned, those that bear a stamp or engraved logo are easier to date. For example, a claw stamped “Shicato” with a small crown above the name typically dates to the early 1980s. If you find a claw with a “Malena Dul” mark, you have a piece from a smaller London workshop that produced accessories for the fashion editor set. These signed pieces command higher prices in the vintage market, but an unsigned claw with beautiful marbling and a perfect hinge is equally worthy of a place in your collection.
Styling a C39 Claw with a Modern Wardrobe
The beauty of the C39 claw is its versatility. Unlike some vintage accessories that feel costume-like, these claws blend seamlessly into contemporary outfits. A deep tortoiseshell claw works beautifully with a cream cashmere jumper and wide-leg trousers, adding a touch of warmth and texture. A jet-black claw with a subtle cut-out pattern can anchor a sleek ponytail for an evening look, especially when worn with a black silk blouse and gold hoop earrings. The key is to let the claw be the focal point: keep the rest of your accessories minimal, and choose a hairstyle that shows off the clip’s profile.
For readers who love the ric rac trim aesthetic, the C39 claw shares a similar design philosophy — bold, geometric, and unapologetically vintage. If you are drawn to the playful zigzag of ric rac, you will appreciate the sculptural quality of a C39 claw. You can read more about this connection in The Story of the Ric Rac Hair Clip: Vintage British Millinery, which explores how trims and clips evolved in parallel during the same period. Similarly, the Rainbow Hair Claws: A Collector’s Guide to Colourful Vintage Hair Clips in British Fashion offers insight into how colour was used in claw design, a theme that occasionally appears in later C39 variants.
How to Care for Your C39 Claw
Cellulose acetate is a durable material, but it has specific needs. Never soak a C39 claw in water; the metal hinge can rust, and the acetate can absorb moisture and warp. Instead, clean it with a soft, dry cloth after each wear to remove hair oils and product residue. If the claw feels sticky or cloudy, wipe it gently with a cotton pad dampened with isopropyl alcohol (70% or less), then dry it immediately with a clean cloth. Do not use acetone or nail polish remover — these will dissolve the acetate.
Store your C39 claws flat in a lined box, away from direct sunlight and heat sources. Sunlight accelerates the yellowing of acetate and can cause the material to become brittle over time. If you have multiple claws, place a piece of acid-free tissue paper between them to prevent scratches. Do not store them in a bathroom, where humidity fluctuates. A bedroom drawer or a fabric-lined jewellery box is ideal. For long-term storage, consider wrapping each claw in a soft cotton pouch; this also prevents the hinge from catching on other accessories.
Building a C39 Collection
Start by focusing on a single colour family. Tortoiseshell is the most common and the most versatile, and it allows you to learn the nuances of acetate quality without the distraction of colour variation. Once you can identify a well-preserved tortoiseshell claw, branch out into amber, jet black, and the rarer marbled pieces. Estate sales and vintage haberdashery shops in British market towns are excellent hunting grounds. Look for stalls that sell sewing notions and vintage buttons — the same vendors often have a box of hair accessories tucked away. Online auctions can be fruitful, but always ask for a photo of the hinge and teeth before bidding.
Keep a simple catalogue of your finds. Note the colour, length, hinge type, and any markings. If you find a claw with a known maker’s mark, record the date and location of your purchase. Over time, you will develop a sense of which C39 variants are rare and which are more common, and you will be able to spot a bargain from a distance. The C39 code is not just a storage label; it is a passport to a specific moment in British fashion history, when hair accessories were designed to be both functional and beautiful. Treat each claw with the care it deserves, and it will hold your hair — and your attention — for decades to come.