The Story of the Ric Rac Hair Clip: Vintage British Millinery

The ric rac hair clip looks, at first glance, like a scrap of sewing box whimsy brought to life. A strip of zigzag woven trim — cotton or rayon, often in pastel colours — is fixed to a metal or plastic clip base. Yet this small accessory carries the echoes of mid‑century British millinery and home dressmaking, a time when trimmings were treasured and nothing was wasted. Let’s untwist the story.

The Origins of Ric Rac in British Millinery and Hair Accessories

Ric rac trim first appeared in the early 1900s, most likely named after the French ric‑rac — an onomatopoeic word for a scraping or rustling sound, which the stiff woven zigzag makes when handled. By the 1930s it was a staple in haberdashery shops across Britain, used to edge collars, cuffs, and children’s party frocks. But it was in the 1950s and 1960s that resourceful small accessory makers began applying ric rac to hair clips. A wooden or metal barrette would be covered with fabric, then a strip of ric rac was glued or stitched along the top, creating a soft, sculptural wave that caught the light.

These clips were never high‑end luxury items; they belonged to the “everyday pretty” category — affordable, cheerful, and meant to be worn with a twin‑set and a pleated skirt. British women who sewed their own clothes often bought ric rac by the yard, and a matching hair clip could be made from leftover trim. This home‑craft connection gives the clips a warm, personal history that mass‑produced accessories lack.

Materials and Craftsmanship of Vintage Ric Rac Clips

The construction of a ric rac hair clip reveals much about its era and quality. Most examples from the 1940s to 1960s use one of three clip bases:

• Alligator clip — a spring‑loaded metal clamp with teeth, often nickel‑ or gold‑plated. The ric rac is sewn onto a fabric‑covered inner cardboard or thin plastic sheath that wraps over the top jaw.
• Snap clip or French barrette — a curved metal or plastic base with a spring hinge. Ric rac is glued directly onto the top surface, sometimes with a coordinating grosgrain ribbon backing.
• Side comb — a plastic or tortoiseshell‑effect comb with a decorative top panel. Ric rac is stitched through small holes in the panel, then secured with a backing of felt or cardboard.

The trim itself is most commonly cotton or rayon, woven in a tight zigzag that measures 8–12 mm wide. Chemically dyed colours like coral, mint, butter yellow, and powder blue are typical; black and white were also made for formal wear. The quality of the weaving matters — vintage ric rac from British mills like R. Griggs & Co. (better known for shoelaces) held its shape far better than modern polyester imitations.

Iconic Silhouettes of the Mid‑Century

Ric rac clips were rarely the star of a hairstyle; they were gentle embellishments. The most popular silhouette from the 1950s is the rectangular barrette, about 5 cm long, with ric rac running down the centre like a little spine. A variation has three parallel rows of ric rac, creating a striped effect. In the 1960s, longer, narrower clips (called “petal” or “leaf” shapes) appeared, with ric rac outlining the edge — a technique borrowed from embroidery.

Another cult shape is the side claw or “banana” clip, where ric rac is wrapped around the curved top. These are rarer, as the fabric backing often frayed. A well‑preserved example is a collector’s prize.

Styling a Ric Rac Hair Clip Today

Because ric rac clips are small and delicate, they work best as accent pieces rather than structural hair holders. Here are three ways to wear them without looking like you’ve raided a vintage dressing‑up trunk:

1. With a simple chignon. Use a plain black hair tie to gather a low bun, then slide a ric rac clip horizontally just above the base. The zigzag adds texture against smooth hair.
2. As a half‑up accent. Take two small sections from the temples, twist them back, and secure with a ric rac snap clip at the crown. Let the remaining hair fall loose.
3. Pin a side‑sweep. For short hair or bobs, a ric rac side comb tucked behind the ear holds a sweep of hair while exposing the trim. Pair with a cream linen blouse or a navy sweater — the pastel colours soften neutral outfits.

Caring for Your Vintage Ric Rac Treasure

Ric rac trim is surprisingly durable, but the clip mechanism and glue may not be. Follow these guidelines to keep your find in wearable condition:

• Inspect the spring. Alligator clips lose tension over decades. Test the grip on a piece of paper before using in your hair. If it slides off, a jeweller can carefully open the spring loop to increase pressure.
• Clean gently. Wipe the metal parts with a dry microfibre cloth. For the fabric trim, dab with a barely damp cotton bud — never soak the clip. Water weakens old glue and may rust the spring.
• Store flat. Do not hang ric rac clips by the trim; the zigzags can pull out of shape. Place them in a single layer in a lined box, or pin them to a soft felt board.
• Avoid heat and sun. Prolonged sunlight fades pastel ric rac to a pale, uneven ghost. Keep clips away from radiators and direct window light.

If your clip has lost its ric rac entirely, don’t discard the base. You can replace the trim with a modern cotton ric rac from a haberdashery — just match the width and colour closely. The original metal clip, especially one with a hallmark or maker’s mark, is worth preserving.

One final, practical note: vintage ric rac clips often have small fabric loose ends where the trim was cut. A dot of clear‑drying fabric glue — applied with a toothpick — can tame those frayed ends without staining the material.