Five Colour Waves of British Hair Accessories (1920s–1970s)

The 1920s flapper did not simply wear a wave—she wore a sculpted statement. That glossy, undulating crown of finger waves required a comb that matched its architectural precision. But the comb was never just functional; it was a canvas for colour. Black Bakelite, tortoiseshell, silver filigree—each shade told a story about the decade and the woman who chose it. Over the following decades, British fashion cycled through five distinct colour waves, each one redefining the accessories that held, clipped, and adorned the hair. Understanding these waves helps you spot authentic vintage pieces and style them with a modern wardrobe that respects their history.

The First Wave: Art Deco Darkness (1920s–1930s)

The first colour wave was born from the collision of jazz, geometry, and the Great War’s aftermath. Women chopped their hair into bobs and set it in tight, symmetrical waves. The accessories that accompanied this look were dark, glossy, and often metallic. Jet-black Bakelite, deep mahogany tortoiseshell, and gunmetal silver dominated. Combs became wide, decorative panels that sat flush against the head, their carved patterns echoing the sunbursts and chevrons of Art Deco architecture. Jade, onyx, and mother-of-pearl inlays added restrained pops of colour. If you find a long, curved comb with a dark, high-shine finish and a repeating geometric motif, you are holding a piece of the first wave. These pieces pair beautifully with a modern black turtleneck or a silk slip dress—the contrast is the point.

The Second Wave: Pastel Softness (1940s–1950s)

War rationing turned creativity inward. Accessories became smaller, more precious, and unexpectedly soft. The second wave washed over Britain in pastel pinks, powder blues, and butter yellows. Celluloid and early plastics allowed manufacturers to produce lightweight slides and barrettes in these delicate shades. The wave hairstyle itself softened into the victory roll—a rounded, swooping shape that required a sturdy side clip or a pair of decorative combs. The colours were deliberately feminine, a counterbalance to the austerity of fabric and metal. A pastel pink celluloid barrette with a small floral motif is a hallmark of this era. To wear it today, slide it into a low side bun or use it to hold back a section of loose waves—it adds a whisper of vintage without shouting.

The Third Wave: Patriotic Primaries (1940s–1950s, continued)

Alongside the pastels, a bolder current ran through the immediate post-war years. Red, white, and blue—the Union Jack’s colours—appeared on enamel pins, fabric-covered bands, and even plastic hair slides. This was not just patriotism; it was a celebration of peace. The wave hairstyle of the time was often paired with a snood or a wide headband that covered the crown, leaving the waves visible at the nape. A red headband with white polka dots or a navy blue slide with a small enamel shield is a perfect find. These colours still feel fresh when paired with denim or a crisp white shirt. For a more subtle nod, choose a navy blue velvet headband that echoes the shape of the 1940s while fitting modern hair textures.

The Fourth Wave: Candy-Colour Pop (1950s–1960s)

The 1950s exploded with colour. Pinks, mint greens, lemon yellows, and coral oranges—the candy colours of the decade—covered everything from kitchen appliances to hair accessories. The wave hairstyle evolved into the pin curl, a tight cluster of small curls that women set overnight. The accessories that held these curls were often plastic barrettes and claw clips in bright, glossy shades. The banana clip, a long, hinged clip that could hold a full section of hair, became a cult item. Its colour was never neutral: it was a statement. A mint green banana clip or a coral pink alligator barrette is a treasure. These pieces look unexpectedly modern when used to pull back thick hair into a low ponytail or twisted updo. The bright colour acts as a jewel.

The Fifth Wave: Psychedelic and Natural (1960s–1970s)

The final wave is a split. On one side, the 1960s brought psychedelic colours—neon oranges, electric blues, and acid greens—often on plastic headbands and oversized slides. On the other, the 1970s turned to earth tones: amber, forest green, and deep brown, often in wood, horn, or resin. The wave hairstyle itself loosened into the natural wave, encouraged by the growing embrace of textured, unprocessed hair. Accessories became larger and more sculptural. The wide wooden hair fork, the leather-wrapped headband, and the oversized acrylic barrette all belong to this era. These pieces are versatile: an amber resin clip can hold a messy bun with effortless grace, while a leather headband adds a bohemian edge to a tailored blazer. The key is to choose one colour that dominates and let the accessory be the focal point.

Bringing the Five Waves Together

Owning one piece from each colour wave gives you a capsule collection that spans nearly a century of British hair accessory design. A 1920s dark tortoiseshell comb, a 1940s pastel pink slide, a 1950s candy-green banana clip, a 1960s neon headband, and a 1970s amber resin fork—together they tell a story of shifting tastes, materials, and attitudes. When you wear them, you are not just accessorising; you are building a timeline. The Kelly Bow is a perfect example of how a single silhouette can adapt across colour waves—its classic shape appears in black, pastel, and candy versions, each evoking a different era. You can stick to one wave or mix pieces from different eras—just let the colour guide the hairstyle, and let the hairstyle honour the wave.

Take a pastel pink celluloid barrette from the second wave. Keep it out of direct sunlight, because those delicate shades fade faster than Bakelite or metal. Clean it with a soft, dry cloth—never soak. And when you find a piece that calls to you, look for the tell-tale signs: the glossy jet-black of Art Deco, the powder blue of wartime softness, the candy-pink of the fifties. That knowledge turns a simple accessory into a conversation starter. The five waves are not just history—they are a palette waiting for your hands.