The Snake Beret: A 1920s Art Deco Accessory That Still Bites
The snake motif has slithered through jewellery and fashion for centuries, but its appearance in British hair accessories reached a particular peak during the 1920s and 1930s. Among the most distinctive pieces from that era is the so-called “snake beret” — a small, close-fitting cap that wraps around the crown, often finished with a sinuous metal or fabric snake that coils across the surface or dangles as a tail. Unlike a standard beret, which is soft and round, the snake beret is structured, with a fitted band and a decorative snake element that gives it its name. Collectors today seek out these pieces for their rarity and the way they capture the Art Deco obsession with streamlined, reptilian forms.
What Exactly Is a Snake Beret?
The term “snake beret” appears in vintage catalogues and millinery records from the late 1910s through the 1930s. It refers to a small, brimless hat that sits high on the head, typically made from velvet, silk, or felt, and adorned with a snake-shaped ornament. The snake could be a separate piece — cast in brass or silver, sometimes enameled — sewn onto the front or side of the beret. Alternatively, the snake was formed from folded fabric, with the head and tail protruding. In some examples, the beret itself is shaped like a coiled snake, with the fabric cut and stitched to mimic scales.
These hats were popular for evening wear and for the newly bobbed hairstyles of the Jazz Age, because they could be pinned securely without crushing elaborate waves. British manufacturers such as Borsalino (though Italian, their hats were widely sold in London) and smaller London milliners produced snake berets in colours like deep emerald, black, burgundy, and navy. The snake motif was also used on hair combs and barrettes, but the beret version is particularly sought after because it combines accessory and hat in one piece.
Materials and Construction Techniques
Authentic vintage snake berets are constructed with surprising precision. The base is usually a buckram or wire frame covered in fabric. The snake element demands attention:
- Metal snakes: Often die-cast in brass or white metal, then plated with silver or gold. Some have glass eyes or tiny rhinestones. The snake is attached with small stitches or tiny screws to the beret’s band.
- Fabric snakes: Made from bias-cut velvet or satin, stuffed with cotton wadding, and hand-sewn into a coiled shape. The head is shaped with wire and often has embroidered eyes. These fabric snakes are more fragile and rarer to find intact.
- Enamel finishes: A few higher-end pieces feature cloisonné enamel on the snake body, with intricate patterns of scales in green, gold, and black.
The beret itself is lined with silk or rayon, and the inner band is often stamped with the maker’s name and size. Because they were handmade, no two are exactly alike.
Cultural Significance and the Snake in British Fashion
The snake’s popularity in the 1920s was not accidental. After the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb in 1922, Egyptian motifs flooded design, and the serpent — a symbol of eternity and protection — became a staple. British women who adopted the snake beret were making a subtle statement about modernity and worldliness. The snake also appeared in the work of jewellers like Cartier and in the costumes of dancers like Mata Hari. For the everyday woman, a snake beret was an affordable way to participate in this trend.
By the 1950s, snake berets had largely disappeared from mainstream millinery, but they resurfaced in the 1970s as part of the vintage revival. Today, they are prized by collectors for their craftsmanship and their connection to a specific moment in fashion history.
How to Identify a Genuine Snake Beret
If you are hunting for one at a flea market or online auction, look for these signs:
| Feature | Authentic (1920s–1930s) | Modern reproduction |
|---|---|---|
| Snake material | Die-cast metal, often with patina; or stuffed fabric with hand stitching | Lightweight stamped metal or plastic; machine stitching |
| Beret fabric | Silk velvet, heavy crepe, or wool felt; lining in rayon or silk | Polyester velvet or acrylic felt; lining in polyester |
| Construction | Buckram or wire frame; hand-sewn snake attachment | No frame; snake glued or stapled |
| Maker’s mark | Often stamped inside band: “London”, “Paris”, or milliner’s name | No mark or generic “Made in China” |
Be cautious of reproductions that claim to be “vintage style” but use modern materials. A genuine snake beret will feel heavier and more structured than a modern costume hat.
Styling the Snake Beret Today
The snake beret is surprisingly wearable with a contemporary wardrobe. Because it sits high on the head, it works best with hair that is short or pinned back — think a sleek chignon or a low ponytail. Avoid voluminous hair that would push the beret off. Pair it with a simple dress or a tailored blazer; the accessory itself provides all the ornament. For a British autumn look, try a black velvet snake beret with a cream roll-neck sweater and dark trousers. The snake motif adds an edge that feels modern rather than costume-like.
If you own a snake beret with a metal snake, take care not to snag it on knitwear. The tail of a fabric snake can be gently reshaped with steam, but never pull on it hard.
Care and Preservation
Snake berets are delicate. Here is a practical care routine:
- Storage: Keep in a hat box with acid-free tissue paper. Do not hang; the weight of the ornament can distort the beret.
- Cleaning: Spot-clean fabric with a damp cloth and mild soap. For metal snakes, use a soft jewellery cloth — never dip the whole beret in water.
- Moth prevention: Cedar blocks or lavender sachets inside the box. Avoid mothballs, which can damage silk.
- Repair: If a fabric snake loses stuffing, you can carefully open a seam and add new cotton batting. For broken metal snakes, consult a jeweller who works with vintage pieces.
One specific tip: if the snake’s eye is missing, a tiny glass bead of the right colour can be glued in place with jeweller’s epoxy. This small restoration can dramatically improve the piece’s appearance without harming its value.
Where to Find Snake Berets
Your best bets are vintage clothing fairs in the UK, such as the Portobello Road Market or the Vintage Fashion Fair in London. Online, look for listings that include photos of the inside band and any maker’s marks. Prices vary: a fabric snake beret in good condition might cost £80–£150, while a metal snake example with enamel can exceed £300. If you are patient, you may find one for less at a charity shop, though that is increasingly rare.
For readers who enjoy the coiled snake aesthetic but prefer a smaller accessory, consider the Gabriel Bow French Hair Barrette — its sinuous lines echo the same Art Deco sensibility, though without the full beret form.
A Final Detail on the Snake Beret’s Legacy
The snake beret never fully returned to mainstream fashion, but its influence appears in the work of contemporary milliners who reinterpret the coiled shape in felt and leather. For the collector, owning an original snake beret is like holding a piece of the Roaring Twenties in your hands — a tangible link to the women who danced the Charleston and dared to wear a serpent on their heads. When you next see one at a market, examine the snake’s tail: if it is finely tapered and the scales are individually defined, you are likely looking at a piece from the golden age of British millinery. That is the one to take home.