The Ric Rac 5: A Collector’s Guide to Vintage Hair Accessories with Zigzag Trim

The moment you run your fingers along the zigzag edge of a 1950s hair bow, you feel the unmistakable texture of ric rac trim. For collectors of British vintage hair accessories, the term "Ric Rac 5" has become shorthand for a specific width – 5 millimetres – that appears on countless barrettes, hair bands, and decorative combs from the mid-twentieth century. This narrow, scalloped braid is not merely decorative; it is a hallmark of an era when millinery detail mattered, and its presence tells a story of craftsmanship, material innovation, and a distinctly feminine aesthetic that still resonates today.

What is Ric Rac 5?

Ric rac is a flat, woven braid with a characteristic zigzag or scalloped edge, created by alternately pulling the warp threads tighter and looser during weaving. The "5" refers to the width of the braid in millimetres – a size that became the standard for hair accessories because it was narrow enough to sit delicately on a barrette or hair band, yet wide enough to show its distinctive wave. In the world of vintage accessories, Ric Rac 5 is not a specific brand or product line; rather, it is a descriptor used by collectors and restorers to identify pieces made with this particular trim. You might find it sewn along the edge of a velvet bow, wrapped around a tortoiseshell clip, or forming a rosette on a spring-loaded hair band.

A Brief History of Ric Rac in British Hair Fashion

The origins of ric rac trim can be traced to the early 20th century, when French ribbon manufacturers began experimenting with novel weaves. The name itself is thought to derive from the French ric-à-rac, meaning "rich and ragged" – a nod to its opulent yet playful appearance. By the 1930s, ric rac had crossed the Channel and become a staple in British dressmaking, often used as edging on children's dresses and aprons. It was not until the post-war years, however, that ric rac found its true calling in hair accessories.

The 1950s and 1960s were a golden age for British millinery, and hair accessories were no exception. Designers such as Simone Mirman and the team at the London-based firm Richelieu (founded in 1947) began incorporating ric rac trim into their collections. The 5mm width proved ideal for adding a playful, feminine touch to simple barrettes and hair bands without overwhelming the silhouette. Department stores like Liberty & Co. and Harrods stocked racks of these accessories, often in pastel shades of pink, mint, and lavender, as well as classic black and white. The ric rac trim was usually made from cotton, rayon, or a blend of the two, sometimes with a subtle metallic thread for evening wear.

Materials and Craftsmanship

Understanding the materials used in Ric Rac 5 accessories is essential for any collector. The trim itself was typically woven from high-quality cotton or rayon, chosen for its ability to hold the zigzag shape after washing and pressing. The base of the accessory – whether a metal barrette, a plastic clip, or a fabric-covered band – was often made from materials that have since become collectible in their own right: celluloid, early acrylics, and German silver. The ric rac was attached by hand or by machine using a fine running stitch, and the ends were usually tucked under or sealed with a tiny dab of glue to prevent fraying.

One of the joys of finding an original Ric Rac 5 piece is the quality of the trim. Modern reproductions often use a synthetic braid that feels stiffer and less pliable, and the zigzag pattern may be less pronounced. Vintage ric rac has a soft, almost fabric-like drape, and the edges are slightly rounded from wear and age. When you hold a 1950s barrette up to the light, you can sometimes see the subtle irregularities in the weave – a sign of hand-finishing that mass-produced items lack.

Identifying Vintage Ric Rac Accessories

For the discerning collector, knowing how to spot an authentic Ric Rac 5 piece is half the pleasure. Here are a few practical pointers:

• Check the width: Use a ruler or a digital caliper. Genuine 5mm ric rac measures exactly 5–5.5 mm across the flat part of the braid. Wider or narrower trims were also used, but the 5mm width is most common for hair accessories.
• Examine the weave: Vintage ric rac has a slightly irregular, hand-woven look. The zigzag peaks are not perfectly uniform, and the edges may show a tiny bit of fraying from decades of use.
• Look at the attachment: On original pieces, the ric rac is sewn on with small, even stitches – often in a matching or contrasting thread. If the trim appears glued or heat-pressed, it is likely a later reproduction.
• Feel the weight: Older accessories tend to be heavier because of the metal components. A lightweight plastic barrette with ric rac trim is probably from the 1970s or later, when mass production reduced material quality.
• Seek hallmarks or labels: Some British makers stamped their clips with a tiny mark – "Richelieu" or "Made in England" – on the back of the barrette. These are strong indicators of a vintage piece.

Caring for Your Ric Rac Treasures

Once you have added a Ric Rac 5 accessory to your collection, proper care will ensure it remains a joy to wear for years. Because the trim is often cotton or rayon, it is sensitive to moisture and heat. Never machine wash a vintage hair accessory; instead, spot-clean it with a damp cotton bud and a drop of mild soap. For stubborn dirt, you can gently hand-wash the trim separately, then reshape it while it is still damp and lay it flat to dry. Avoid wringing or twisting, as this can distort the zigzag pattern.

If the ric rac has become flattened over time, you can revive it with a cool iron. Place a pressing cloth over the trim and use a low heat setting, pressing gently. Do not use steam, as it may cause the fabric to shrink or the metal components to rust. Store your Ric Rac 5 pieces in a dry, dark place, ideally in a fabric-lined box or a drawer with acid-free tissue paper to prevent the trim from yellowing.

Styling Ric Rac 5 Today

The beauty of a Ric Rac 5 accessory lies in its versatility. These delicate trims pair wonderfully with modern, minimalist wardrobes, adding a whisper of vintage charm without overwhelming a contemporary outfit. Try clipping a 1950s ric rac barrette into a low ponytail or using a ric rac hair band to anchor a half-up style. For evening, a black velvet bow with silver ric rac trim can elevate a simple sheath dress. The key is to let the accessory speak – its zigzag edge is a subtle conversation starter that hints at a love for history and craftsmanship.

Many contemporary British designers have begun to reference the Ric Rac 5 aesthetic in their own work, using similar zigzag trims on hair slides and claw clips. While these modern interpretations are lovely, there remains something irreplaceable about holding an original piece, knowing that it was hand-finished in a small London workshop sixty years ago. The slight asymmetry of the weave, the soft patina of the metal, the faint scent of lavender from a long-ago dressing table – these are the details that make vintage Ric Rac 5 accessories treasures worth seeking out.

So when you next browse a vintage market, let your fingers linger on those zigzag ribbons. The 5mm ric rac might be the quiet hallmark of a true mid-century treasure – one that deserves a second life in your hair.