Ric Rac 4: The Zigzag Trim That Defined Vintage British Hair Accessories

If you have ever run your fingers along the edge of a 1950s barrette or a 1970s hairband and felt a crisp, zigzag texture, you have met ric rac. This narrow, wave-shaped trim – often called “ric rac braid” – was a staple of mid-century haberdashery, and its fourth iteration, known in trade as Ric Rac 4, became the go-to width for hair accessories in Britain. Unlike the narrower Ric Rac 1 or 2 (used mostly for edging collars and cuffs), Ric Rac 4 measures approximately 10 mm from peak to trough, giving it enough presence to stand alone as a decorative element on a hair clip or headband, yet flexible enough to be stitched along a curve without puckering.

Vintage collectors often encounter Ric Rac 4 on what are called “sweetheart” barrettes – small metal snap clips covered in fabric and trimmed with this zigzag braid. The trim was typically made from cotton or rayon, dyed in pastel pinks, mint greens, or butter yellows, and machine-stitched in a single pass. The result was a playful, almost confectionary look that matched the optimism of post-war British fashion. By the 1960s, Ric Rac 4 had also found its way onto velvet hairbands, where it was used as a contrasting edge, and onto decorative hair combs for evening wear.

What Made Ric Rac 4 Different from Other Trims?

Ric rac is defined by its repeated “S” curve, but the number refers to the number of peaks per inch – or, in the case of numbered products like Ric Rac 4, the overall width and scale. A Ric Rac 4 trim has four full waves per inch, meaning each wave is about 6 mm wide. This scale sits in a sweet spot: it is large enough to be seen from a distance (important for hair accessories that need to pop against the hair) but not so bulky that it becomes stiff or heavy. In contrast, Ric Rac 6 (used on children’s clothing) is narrower and often lost in the hair, while Ric Rac 2 is too wide for most hair clips.

Another distinguishing feature of authentic vintage Ric Rac 4 is the way it was woven. Original mid-century ric rac was made on a loom with a cotton warp and a rayon or silk weft, giving it a slight sheen that catches light. Modern reproductions often use polyester, which lacks the same lustre and drapes differently. For a collector, the presence of genuine cotton-rayon Ric Rac 4 on a hair accessory is a strong indicator of age and quality.

How Ric Rac 4 Was Used in British Hair Accessories

British milliners and accessory makers of the 1950s and 1960s embraced Ric Rac 4 for its ability to add texture without bulk. Common applications included:

• Snap clips (barrettes): A metal clip base was covered with a cotton or satin fabric, then a single strip of Ric Rac 4 was sewn along the top edge. The trim often extended slightly beyond the clip’s ends, creating a gentle fringe.
• Headbands: Wide plastic or metal headbands were wrapped in velvet or grosgrain, and a line of Ric Rac 4 was glued or stitched along the centre. Some designs used two parallel rows of ric rac in contrasting colours.
• Hair combs: Decorative combs for updos sometimes featured a cluster of ric rac loops at the top, created by folding the trim into small rosettes and securing them with thread.
• Tiaras and bridal pieces: For weddings, Ric Rac 4 in white or ivory was used to edge a fabric-covered tiara base, giving a lacy effect without the cost of real lace.

One particularly charming use was on the “Alice band” – a thin headband popularised by the 1950s debutante. A single row of Ric Rac 4 in a matching or contrasting colour transformed a simple band into a statement piece. These bands are still sought after by vintage collectors today.

Materials and Craftsmanship Behind the Trim

Authentic Ric Rac 4 from the 1940s–1970s was almost always made from a blend of cotton and rayon. The cotton provided strength, while the rayon gave a subtle sheen. The trim was woven in long continuous lengths, then cut to size. The edges were not finished – the weave itself prevented fraying because the “S” curves locked the threads in place. This self-finishing quality made ric rac ideal for hair accessories, where raw edges would otherwise show.

Attaching Ric Rac 4 to a hair clip required a steady hand. Makers would pin the trim along the clip’s curve, then stitch it with a straight or zigzag machine stitch, catching both edges of the braid. On higher-end pieces, the stitching was done by hand with a fine needle, allowing the trim to lie perfectly flat. The thread colour was always matched to the trim, never contrasting, so the stitches disappeared into the waves.

For collectors, examining the stitching is a quick way to date a piece. Machine-stitched ric rac with even tension and a single colour thread points to mass production (1950s–1960s). Hand-stitched trim with slightly uneven spacing suggests an earlier or custom-made accessory (1940s or earlier).

Styling Ric Rac 4 Hair Accessories Today

Vintage Ric Rac 4 pieces pair surprisingly well with modern wardrobes. The key is to let the accessory be the focal point. A simple white T-shirt and jeans, combined with a pastel ric rac barrette, instantly evokes a 1950s casual look without feeling costumey. For a more polished ensemble, a velvet headband with Ric Rac 4 trim can complement a tailored blazer or a midi dress. The trim adds a tactile, handmade quality that contrasts with sleek contemporary fabrics.

If you are lucky enough to find a vintage ric rac hair comb, it works beautifully in a low chignon or a half-up style. The comb’s teeth slide into the hair, and the ric rac rosette sits at the crown, adding volume and a touch of whimsy. Because the trim is lightweight, it does not pull or weigh down fine hair.

One practical tip: when wearing a ric rac barrette, avoid pairing it with other bold patterns. The zigzag trim is already visually busy, so a solid-colour outfit lets it shine. Conversely, a ric rac headband can be worn with a floral dress if the headband’s colour matches one of the flowers in the dress – a trick that vintage stylists used often.

Caring for Ric Rac 4 Hair Accessories

Vintage ric rac trim is surprisingly durable, but it does require gentle handling. The cotton-rayon blend can weaken over decades, especially if the accessory was stored in direct sunlight or damp conditions. Here are a few care guidelines:

• Cleaning: Do not submerge the entire accessory in water. Instead, spot-clean the ric rac with a slightly damp cotton bud and a drop of mild soap. Blot immediately with a dry cloth. If the trim is attached to a metal clip, moisture can rust the spring, so keep water away from the hinge.
• Storage: Store ric rac accessories flat in a lined box or a fabric pouch. Avoid hanging them by the trim, as gravity can stretch the waves over time. Keep away from heat sources and direct sunlight to prevent fading.
• Repair: If a section of ric rac becomes loose, you can reattach it with a few hand stitches using a fine needle and thread that matches the trim’s colour. Do not use glue – it will stiffen the fabric and ruin the drape.
• Removing creases: If the ric rac has been crushed in storage, place a clean cloth over it and press very gently with a warm (not hot) iron. Move quickly; the rayon content can scorch easily.

For those who love the aesthetic but prefer a new piece, some contemporary makers produce Ric Rac 4 in cotton using traditional looms. These modern versions can be a good alternative if you want the look without the fragility of a 70-year-old trim. However, the charm of an original vintage piece – with its slightly uneven dye, soft patina, and hand-stitched details – is something that cannot be replicated.

Where to Look for Ric Rac 4 Treasures

British charity shops, car boot sales, and vintage fairs are the best hunting grounds for Ric Rac 4 hair accessories. Because the trim was so widely used, pieces turn up regularly, often in mixed lots of costume jewellery or sewing notions. Look for barrettes with a metal snap closure and a fabric cover – the ric rac is usually along the top edge. Headbands are more common in larger sizes; check the inside of the band for the maker’s mark (some were stamped with “Made in England”).

Online marketplaces like eBay and Etsy can be useful, but be aware that many sellers misidentify modern polyester ric rac as vintage. Ask for a photo of the trim’s reverse side: vintage ric rac has a woven, slightly irregular edge, while modern versions have a uniform, machine-finished edge. Also, vintage ric rac is softer and more pliable; if the trim feels stiff and scratchy, it is likely new.

For a deeper dive into a specific type of vintage hair clip that often features ric rac, you might enjoy reading about The Filo Tortoiseshell Hair Clip: A Collector's Guide to Vintage British Accessories. While that piece focuses on tortoiseshell materials, the construction techniques and collector tips apply equally to ric rac-trimmed clips.

And if you are curious about how a simple hair accessory can anchor an entire outfit, the styling ideas in How a T-Shirt and Vintage Hair Accessories Bring Product Creativity to Life offer a fresh perspective on mixing vintage trim pieces with modern basics.

Next time you spot a zigzag edge at a car boot sale, take a closer look. British Ric Rac 4 pieces from the 1950s often have a maker’s mark on the inside of the headband or a faint cotton-rayon sheen that catches the light. A single barrette with original stitching can cost as little as a few pounds, yet it carries the same wave pattern that once decorated debutante balls and wedding tiaras. That humble trim still holds its shape – and its place in fashion history.