How to Date and Wear Vintage Hair Scarves
The hair scarf has taken many forms: the tightly knotted silk square of the 1940s, the loosely draped cotton lengths of the 1970s, and everything in between. It is one of the most versatile and underappreciated accessories in a vintage hair collection. Unlike a barrette or a comb, which primarily secures or decorates a fixed hairstyle, a scarf can change the silhouette entirely, protect the hair from the elements, and add a deliberate splash of colour or pattern to an outfit. Yet for many collectors, the hair scarf remains a puzzling category: how do you date a piece of fabric, and how do you wear a vintage square without looking as though you have stepped out of a period drama? The answers lie in the details of cut, fibre, print, and a distinctly British approach to practicality.
Cut and Construction: Square, Rectangle, and the Bias-Cut Revolution
The most common vintage hair scarf is a square, ranging from a compact 50 cm (20 inches) to a generous 90 cm (36 inches). The smaller squares, often called head squares or knotted squares, were designed to be folded into a triangle and tied under the chin or at the nape of the neck. Larger squares were intended to cover the entire head, with the ends tied at the front or side, leaving the back of the hair fully enclosed. A rectangular scarf, typically longer than its width, was used for a turban wrap or a long tail that could be braided into the hair.
One of the most telling construction details is the hem. Machine-rolled hems, common from the 1950s onward, are neat and uniform. Hand-rolled hems, often found on scarves from the 1930s and 1940s, show slight irregularities and a softer drape. The finest scarves were cut on the bias—diagonally to the weave—so that the fabric would stretch and mould around the head without pulling. A bias-cut scarf is immediately recognisable by how it falls when held by a corner: it twists and curves rather than hanging straight. This technique, borrowed from couture dressmaking, turns a simple accessory into a piece of functional engineering.
Fibre Families: Silk, Rayon, and the Rise of Synthetics
Before the Second World War, silk was the dominant fibre for quality hair scarves. British manufacturers imported raw silk from Japan and China, weaving it into lightweight twill or crepe de chine. Silk scarves from the 1920s and 1930s have a distinctive crispness when new, but they soften with age. They are also surprisingly strong: a well-preserved silk scarf can still hold a firm knot without tearing.
The war years brought rayon to the forefront. Often marketed as “artificial silk,” rayon is a regenerated cellulose fibre that mimics the drape of silk at a lower cost. Rayon scarves from the 1940s are heavier than silk and tend to develop a slight sheen with wear. They also wrinkle more easily, which is why many wartime scarves were designed with a printed pattern that disguised creases. After the war, nylon and polyester entered the market. A nylon scarf from the 1950s is slippery and resists wrinkling, but it does not breathe like natural fibres. Polyester scarves from the 1960s and 1970s are often stiff and shiny, though they hold a printed design with remarkable clarity.
A simple test for fibre identification: hold the edge of the scarf to your cheek. Silk warms quickly and feels smooth without being slick. Rayon feels cool and slightly rough. Nylon and polyester feel unnaturally slippery and do not warm against the skin.
Patterns and Prints: Reading the Decade
The design on a scarf is often the easiest way to place it in time. British scarf manufacturers such as Liberty of London, Jacqmar, and Ascher produced scarves that echoed the major artistic movements of the day. Liberty scarves from the 1910s and 1920s featured small, repeating floral motifs in muted colours—Art Nouveau influences that continued well into the 1930s. By the late 1930s, bold geometric patterns inspired by Art Deco became popular: zigzags, chevrons, and stylised sunbursts in cream, navy, and rust.
The 1940s saw an explosion of utility prints. Because the British government restricted the use of fabric and dyes for non-military purposes, many scarves were printed with small, economical patterns that used minimal ink. Look for “utility” labels or registration numbers that indicate government-approved manufacture. The iconic “head scarf” of the Land Girl—a square of printed cotton with a simple floral or paisley design—was both a fashion statement and a badge of wartime contribution.
The 1950s brought a return to luxury. Large floral prints, often called “cabbage roses,” covered the entire scarf in saturated colours. Abstract modernist designs, influenced by artists like Henri Matisse and Pablo Picasso, appeared on scarves from high-end houses. A scarf from this period often has a border design on all four sides, leaving the centre plain—a layout that allowed the wearer to fold the scarf so that the border framed the face.
By the 1960s, Op Art and Pop Art influences made their way onto scarves. Bold concentric circles, checkerboard patterns, and bright primary colours replaced the softer palettes of the previous decade. The 1970s favoured earthy tones: ochre, avocado, and brown, often in large paisley or ethnic-inspired motifs. Liberty once again revived its small floral patterns, this time on fine cotton lawn.
Wearing a Vintage Scarf with a Modern Wardrobe
The greatest challenge for a collector is integrating a vintage scarf into daily life without looking costumed. The most effective approach is to treat the scarf as a neutral accent—choose one element of your outfit to echo. A 1940s rayon scarf in olive and mustard pairs naturally with a modern trench coat and raw denim. A 1950s silk square in navy and white works with a plain white blouse and tailored trousers. The key is to avoid matching the scarf to a period-specific hairstyle or garment. Let the scarf be the only vintage piece in an otherwise contemporary ensemble.
For those new to wearing scarves on the head, the simplest method is the “top knot.” Fold the square into a triangle, place the longest edge at the nape of the neck, bring the two ends to the top of the head, and tie them in a double knot. Tuck the remaining tail of fabric under the knot or let it hang loose for a softer look. This works particularly well with mid-length or longer hair that has been pulled into a low ponytail or bun. The scarf covers the hairline and adds volume to the crown without requiring pins or combs.
Care and Storage for Fabric Scarves
Vintage scarves are fragile, especially those made from rayon or aged silk. Never wash a vintage scarf in a machine. Hand wash in cool water with a mild, pH-neutral detergent designed for silk or wool. Gently agitate the scarf, then rinse in cool water until no soap remains. Do not wring or twist. Roll the scarf in a clean, dry towel to absorb excess moisture, then lay it flat on a drying rack away from direct sunlight and heat sources.
Ironing a vintage scarf requires care. Use a low heat setting and always place a pressing cloth—a piece of plain cotton or muslin—between the iron and the scarf. Steam can set stains or cause shrinkage, so iron the scarf when it is still slightly damp, not completely dry. Store scarves flat in a drawer, folded loosely with acid-free tissue paper between layers. Do not hang scarves on hangers; the weight of the fabric will stretch the fibres over time, especially at the corners.
If you find a 1930s Liberty square with a hand-rolled hem and a registered design number on the selvage, you've likely got a piece worth holding onto—and wearing. A 1950s silk square in a colour that flatters your complexion will serve you for decades, whether tied at the crown or knotted around the handle of a handbag. Building a collection of vintage hair scarves is a different pursuit from collecting clips or combs: a scarf does not have a hinge or a spring that can fail, nor does it require a specific hairstyle to be worn. Its value lies in the fabric, the print, and the story of how it was made. For those who enjoy the hunt, scarf collecting rewards patience.
For more on fabric hair accessories, see our guide to building a well-chosen set of cloth headpieces, Collections Scunchy: A Collector’s Guide to the Fabric Hair Tie, which covers similar care and storage principles for elasticated fabric accessories. And if you're hunting for scarves abroad, the article Blog New York Stories: A Vintage Hair Accessory Hunt Across the Atlantic offers firsthand tips on what to look for when buying in American vintage shops.