The Art of the Lannyard: Building a Collection of Vintage Cord Hair Accessories
You find it at a car boot sale in Suffolk, tangled in a box of old lace. A braided silk cord, perhaps eight inches long, with tiny enamel beads at each end and a small gilt clip. The seller calls it a “hair lanyard” and shrugs when you ask for a price. That piece – unassuming, delicate, and utterly specific – is the beginning of a collection that has no official name, but which I have come to call a Lannyard. The term is not found in any museum catalogue, but among seasoned collectors it describes those hybrid accessories that sit between a hair cord, a slide, and a decorative tie: objects made from twisted silk, metallic thread, or fine leather, often finished with tassels or charms, and designed to be woven through a bun or wrapped around a ponytail.
Building a Lannyard collection is a detective’s game. Unlike the more famous tortoiseshell combs or jeweled bandeaus, these pieces were rarely signed or photographed. They were the everyday adornments of women who moved through the 1910s, 1920s, and 1930s – not the centrepiece of a formal portrait, but the quiet detail that held a hairstyle in place during a day of typing, gardening, or afternoon tea. This article is a guide to recognising, finding, and preserving these understated treasures.
What Exactly Is a Lannyard?
The word “lanyard” originally described a cord worn around the neck for holding a whistle or a knife. In the context of hair accessories, it was adapted for a cord that could be tied around the hair or attached to a comb. The spelling “Lannyard” appears in early twentieth-century trade catalogues, possibly a regional variant or a maker’s error that stuck. I use it here to denote any cord-based hair accessory that is not a simple ribbon or a rigid clip. Look for these characteristics:
- Material: Silk, rayon, metallic thread, or fine leather – often braided, twisted, or knotted.
- Length: Usually between 6 and 12 inches, sometimes with a loop or hook at one end.
- Decorations: Tassels, beads, small pendants, or enamel motifs. The enamel work on early Lannyards is often hand-painted with floral or geometric patterns in pastel shades.
- Attachment style: Some have a small clip or comb sewn onto the cord; others are simply tied.
Eras and Silhouettes
Lannyards reached their peak of popularity in the 1920s and early 1930s, when short bobs and low chignons demanded accessories that were both functional and decorative. The classic silhouette was a single cord wrapped twice around the base of a bun, with the tassel left to dangle at the nape of the neck. In the 1910s, longer Lannyards were used to tie back Edwardian pompadours, often threaded through a metal slide. By the 1940s, the trend had faded in favour of plastic barrettes and snoods, but Lannyards never completely disappeared – they resurfaced in the 1970s as part of the Bohemian revival, this time made from suede and wooden beads.
For a collector, the most desirable examples are those from the 1910s and 1920s, especially pieces with intact enamel work or unusual metal findings. The gilt clips were often stamped with a maker’s mark – look for names like “De La Rue” or “W. & A. G. Ltd.”, though most remain anonymous. The silk cords themselves are surprisingly fragile; the best-preserved ones were stored in acid-free tissue or kept inside velvet-lined boxes.
How to Start a Lannyard Collection
- Know your materials. Learn to distinguish between silk and rayon by touch (silk is cooler and smoother; rayon has a slight sheen but feels less supple). Avoid pieces that are stiff or have a powdery residue – that indicates dry rot, which cannot be reversed.
- Focus on complete sets. A Lannyard that still has its original matching comb or slide is worth far more than a single cord. The comb is often the first piece to be lost, so a full set is a sign of careful storage.
- Look beyond the obvious. Lannyards are often mislabelled as “shoe laces” or “watch chains” in vintage shops. Bring a magnet – many gilt clips are brass, but some are iron and will rust.
- Document provenance. If you find a Lannyard in a family estate, ask for the owner’s name and the era it was worn. A handwritten note with the date and occasion adds immense value to a collection.
Care and Preservation
Silk Lannyards are among the most delicate hair accessories you will ever own. Never wash them – water can cause the dyes to run and the silk to lose its natural lustre. Instead, gently brush away dust with a soft, dry paintbrush. Store them flat in a drawer lined with unbleached muslin, or rolled loosely in acid-free paper. Avoid hanging them, as the weight of the tassel can stretch the cord over time. If the metal clip has lost its plating, you can apply a microcrystalline wax (such as Renaissance Wax) to slow further oxidation.
For pieces with enamel beads, inspect the enamel for cracks. Do not attempt to repair it yourself – leave that to a professional conservator who specialises in glass and metal. A cracked enamel bead can still be worn, but it will eventually flake off; photograph it now for your records.
Styling a Lannyard Today
The beauty of a Lannyard is its versatility. A simple silk cord can be tied around a low ponytail, or wrapped around a messy bun as a subtle accent. For a more formal look, weave the cord through a French twist and let the tassel fall over the ear. The modern wardrobe that pairs best with a Lannyard is one that echoes its own era: a crepe shift dress, a tweed blazer, or a cashmere turtleneck. Avoid overly synthetic fabrics – the Lannyard is a natural fibre accessory and it looks out of place alongside polyester.
One of the most rewarding aspects of Lannyard collecting is the sense of discovery. These pieces are not listed on the front pages of eBay or punctuated with dramatic descriptions. They hide in the bottom of a sewing basket, in a forgotten compartment of a vanity case, or in the “miscellaneous hair” section of a flea market. I once found a complete 1920s Lannyard with a mother-of-pearl slide tucked inside a book titled The London Ballad – the cord was being used as a bookmark. The woman who owned it had probably worn it to a dance in 1925, then repurposed it decades later. That kind of continuity is what makes a collection feel personal rather than arbitrary.
For a deeper look at the visual records of Edwardian and 1920s hair accessories – including the bandeaus and combs that often accompanied Lannyards – I recommend browsing the Picture Diary of Vintage Hair Accessories: Edwardian Combs, 1920s Bandeaus, and More. That post shows the full context of the era’s hairstyles, which helps you imagine how a Lannyard would have been worn.
To start your own Lannyard collection, begin with a single cord. Don’t worry about rarity or value at first – just find a piece that speaks to you. Hold it up to the light. Twist it between your fingers. If it feels like it has a story, it probably does. And that story is now yours to continue.