The Store P138 Beret Clip: Decoding a Vintage Hair Accessory

Flip over a small, coin-sized hair clip shaped like a beret with crisp white polka dots on navy or scarlet, and you'll see the code store p138 beret spots. That alphanumeric stamp is a direct line to a specific production batch from a London-based wholesaler active between the mid-1970s and early 1980s. Decoding that stamp, dating the piece, and caring for its delicate surface are the three skills that separate a casual buyer from a serious collector.

Decoding the Store Code

Wholesale codes like “p138” were used by British haberdashery suppliers to track inventory across multiple retail outlets.

The “store” prefix indicates the item was part of a general wholesale catalogue rather than a designer line. The number 138 refers to a specific style batch, and the word “beret” describes the silhouette of the accessory — a rounded, domed cap shape, often with a tiny brim. “Spots” simply denotes the polka-dot pattern. These codes are not unique to one brand; they were standardised within the supplier’s system to help shopkeepers reorder quickly. If you find a clip stamped “store p138 beret spots”, you are looking at a piece that likely passed through a millinery counter in a department store or a independent accessory shop in cities like London, Birmingham or Manchester.

Materials and Construction

Most store-p138 beret clips were made from injection-moulded acrylic, which allowed for precise reproduction of the beret’s soft folds and the sharp edges of the polka dots.

The acrylic was painted with a durable enamel finish, often in two-tone combinations: white dots on navy, black dots on scarlet, or gold dots on bottle green. The base of the clip is a metal spring mechanism, typically nickel-plated or brass, which grips the hair securely without damaging it. Some later versions used a lightweight aluminium spring to reduce weight. The inside of the beret dome is hollow, giving the clip a pleasing lightness that makes it comfortable for all-day wear.

Identifying Authentic Pieces

• Weight: Genuine 1970s clips feel heavier than modern plastic reproductions because of the metal spring and thicker acrylic walls.
• Patina: Look for gentle wear on the high points of the beret — the enamel may have tiny hairline cracks, but a good example retains most of its colour.
• Stamp clarity: The “store p138” text should be crisp and raised, not engraved. Faded or blurry stamps suggest a later reproduction or damage from improper cleaning.
• Spring action: Original springs open with a smooth, firm resistance. A rusty or squeaky hinge indicates moisture damage, which can be treated but reduces value.

Dating Your Store p138 Beret Clip

The height of the store-p138 production run was between 1975 and 1979. You can narrow the date by examining the colour palette. Early batches (1975–1976) used a matte navy ground with pure white spots, matching the fashion for Breton-inspired accessories that followed the 1974 revival of nautical stripes in ready-to-wear. By 1978, brighter colours appeared: scarlet, mustard yellow and teal — responding to the rise of punk and new romantic subcultures. The most common find today is the navy/white combination, but the scarlet version is rarer and commands higher prices among collectors. If you see a clip with metallic painted spots (gold or silver over a dark ground), it is likely from a limited Christmas 1979 run.

Styling with a Modern Wardrobe

The beret clip is surprisingly versatile because its small size (roughly 3 cm in diameter) does not overwhelm contemporary hairstyles. Use it to anchor a side-swept wave in a sleek low bun, or clip it at the nape of the neck to secure a silk scarf. The polka-dot pattern reads as a graphic accent, so pair it with solid-colour tops or dresses. For a layered vintage look, combine the p138 clip with a snowflake hair accessory from our guide to British winter traditions — the contrast between the sculptural snowflake and the soft beret shape creates an intriguing textural dialogue. You can also wear the clip on a beret (the full-sized hat) for a playful double-beret effect; just slide the clip onto the brim to keep the hat anchored in wind.

Care and Storage

Acrylic enamel is robust but not indestructible. Clean your store-p138 clip with a soft, dry microfibre cloth. Never soak it in water; moisture can seep into the hollow dome and rust the spring. If the metal hinge shows tarnish, dab a cotton bud in a tiny amount of isopropyl alcohol and wipe only the metal part — keep the alcohol away from the painted surface. Store the clip in a soft pouch or a lined jewellery box, ideally with a silica gel packet to control humidity. Avoid leaving it in direct sunlight, as the enamel can fade over months. If you live in a damp climate, check the clip every season for any signs of corrosion and treat it promptly with a dry brush.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Using jewellery cleaner: Ultrasonic cleaners will strip the enamel and may crack the acrylic.
• Bending the spring: Do not force the clip open wider than its natural range; this weakens the metal and can break the hinge.
• Storing with other metal accessories: The enamel can be scratched by sharp edges of earrings or necklaces.

Collector’s Note on Value

At vintage fairs and online auctions, a clean store-p138 beret clip in navy/white typically sells for £12–£18. The rarer scarlet version with clear white spots can fetch £25–£35 if the spring is smooth and the stamp is legible. Sets of two or three different colourways in original card packaging (often marked by the wholesaler “J. M. & Co.”) are true finds and may exceed £50. When evaluating a clip, always check the inside of the dome for the factory code — some pieces were stamped with a different number if they were overstock from an earlier run. The p138 code specifically guarantees you are getting the classic late-1970s silhouette with a defined brim and rounded crown.

A Final Practical Step

Before adding a store-p138 clip to your collection, hold it up to the light and inspect the polka dots for loss of paint. The smallest chips often appear on the highest point of the dome. If you see three or more missing dots, the clip has been roughly handled and the enamel may continue to flake. A clip with all dots intact and a smooth spring is a worthy investment — expect it to hold its value and add a playful touch to any outfit for years.