The Store p138 Beret Polka Dots: A Collector’s Guide

The code 'store p138' stamped inside a small velvet beret hair clip is a telltale sign of a mid-century British millinery piece. Unlike the more common solid-colour berets, the polka dot variant adds a playful graphic element that collectors prize. This particular pattern—often white dots on navy, red on cream, or black on mustard—captures the post-war optimism that swept through British fashion in the 1950s. Understanding its origins, materials, and proper care can help you both identify an authentic piece and incorporate it into a contemporary wardrobe with confidence.

History of the p138 Beret

The 'store' prefix on vintage hair accessories typically indicates a retail or wholesale code used by British haberdasheries and department stores from the 1940s through the 1960s. The p138 code appears on a specific line of beret-shaped hair clips, often made from velvet or felt, with a spring-loaded metal clip sewn into the base. These were not full-sized hats but rather decorative hair ornaments designed to sit atop a chignon or side-swept waves.

The 1950s saw a surge in beret-inspired hair accessories as women sought easy-to-wear elegance. The polka dot pattern, revived from the 1920s, became a favourite for its cheerful yet refined look. While the 1920s Art Deco Snake Beret represented exuberance with its sinuous metalwork, the p138 polka dot beret embodied the softer, more playful femininity of the post-war era. Many of these pieces were produced in small London ateliers or by manufacturers in the Midlands, using surplus fabrics from the tailoring industry.

Materials and Craftsmanship

The p138 beret is typically constructed from one of three materials:

• Velvet – Most common, with a short pile that holds the polka dot print well. Colours are rich and deep, often with a slight sheen.
• Felt – Usually wool or wool-blend, giving a matte finish. Polka dots on felt are often embroidered rather than printed, adding texture.
• Straw or raffia – Less common but occasionally seen for summer versions, with painted or woven dots.

The clip mechanism is a key indicator of age. Authentic p138 pieces use a brass or nickel-plated spring clip with two small teeth, similar to those found on 1950s barrettes. The clip is hand-stitched onto a fabric base inside the beret, and the code 'store p138' is either stamped directly onto the metal or printed on a small cotton tag sewn into the seam. The polka dots themselves are applied either by screen printing (for velvet) or by hand-stitching (for felt). The spacing and size of the dots vary, but genuine examples show precise registration and consistent colour.

How to Identify an Authentic p138 Beret

Because the p138 code is relatively obscure, fakes are rare, but reproductions do exist. Use these criteria to verify authenticity:

1. Check the stamp or tag. Look for 'store p138' in a serif typeface, usually all lowercase or with a capital S. The ink should be faint and slightly uneven, typical of vintage metal stamping.
2. Examine the clip. It should be a single-piece spring clip, not a modern alligator clip. The metal may show patina or light rust, but not heavy corrosion.
3. Feel the fabric. Authentic velvet has a dense, soft pile that does not shed. Felt should be firm and not pill.
4. Look at the dots. On original pieces, the dots are either woven into the fabric or printed with a slight raised edge. Modern reproduction dots often look too perfect or are applied with a rubbery coating.

Styling the p138 Beret Today

The beauty of the p138 polka dot beret lies in its versatility. Unlike oversized hair bows or elaborate combs, this accessory sits close to the head and adds a subtle pop of pattern. For a modern look, try these approaches:

• Low bun or chignon. Place the beret at the crown or slightly off-centre to echo its original 1950s styling. A sleek low bun keeps the focus on the accessory.
• Side-swept waves. Clip the beret above one ear, letting the dots peek through soft curls. This works beautifully with a silk blouse or a tailored blazer.
• With a headscarf. Layer the beret over a silk scarf tied as a headband—the polka dots can either match or contrast with the scarf pattern. For more on how trims and details define vintage hair accessories, see our exploration of Ric Rac 6: The Zigzag Trim That Defined Vintage British Hair Accessories, which shares a similar mid-century sensibility.

The polka dot pattern pairs especially well with solid-colour outfits in navy, cream, or red. Avoid competing patterns like stripes or large florals; instead, let the beret serve as the single statement piece.

Care and Preservation

Because the p138 beret is often made of delicate velvet or felt, proper care is essential to maintain its shape and colour. Here are practical steps:

• Cleaning. Never submerge in water. For velvet, use a soft, dry brush to lift dust. For felt, a gentle rub with a velvet cloth works. If stains appear, dab with a barely damp cloth and air-dry flat.
• Storage. Wrap the beret in acid-free tissue paper and place it in a cotton or muslin bag. Avoid plastic bags, which trap moisture and can cause the metal clip to rust. Store in a cool, dark drawer away from direct sunlight to prevent fading.
• Clip maintenance. If the spring becomes stiff, apply a tiny drop of sewing machine oil to the hinge, then work it open and closed several times. Wipe away excess oil immediately.

For a broader perspective on caring for vintage hair accessories with metal components, the principles discussed in The Sidney Braided Headband 6: A Collector’s Insight into a Rare British Variant are equally applicable to the p138 beret—especially the advice on avoiding humidity and using archival-quality storage materials.

To keep your p138 beret in pristine condition, store it in acid-free tissue paper inside a breathable cotton bag, away from direct sunlight. This simple habit will preserve the vivid polka dots and the integrity of the clip for decades to come.