The Covent Garden p113: A Collector’s Guide to Vintage Puka Shell Chokers

The product code 'Store p113' appears in the margins of vintage inventory ledgers from a small Covent Garden boutique that specialised in imported shell jewellery during the 1970s. For collectors of bohemian accessories, this code signifies a particular style of puka shell choker that embodies the spirit of the era. Unlike mass-produced copies, the authentic p113 choker was strung by hand on waxed cotton cord, with each shell individually selected for its natural ivory colour and smooth erosion.

What Makes a Puka Shell Choker Genuinely Vintage?

Puka shells come from the cone snail species found in the Indian and Pacific Oceans. True vintage chokers use shells that have been naturally tumbled by the ocean, giving them a matte finish and subtle variations in size. The p113 specification from that Covent Garden store required the shells to be between 8 and 12 millimetres in diameter, with no two identical in shape. The cord was always finished with a sliding knot closure, often with a small brass bead as a stopper. Later reproductions use plastic imitations or machine-polished shells that lack the organic texture of genuine puka.

Materials and Craftsmanship of the p113 Choker

The 'p113' designation indicates a specific construction method. Each shell was drilled by hand using a fine needle, then threaded onto two parallel cords for stability – a labour-intensive technique that prevented the cord from fraying against the shell edges.

The waxed cotton cord was typically in natural cream or pale beige, rarely black, as the boutique favoured an understated palette. This craftsmanship means the choker lies flat against the collarbone without twisting, a detail often missing in modern versions.

How to Identify an Authentic Store p113 Choker

Here's what to check when you're hunting for the real thing:

• Shell surface: Genuine puka shells show concentric growth lines and tiny pits. Run your fingertip across the surface – a perfectly smooth shell is likely plastic or resin.
• Knots: The sliding knot at the back should be a simple overhand knot on each cord, not a metal clasp or elastic string.
• Patent marks: No stamps or logos. The only identifier is the handwritten 'p113' tag that was originally attached to the stock card. If you find the choker alone, its provenance is harder to verify, but the construction details remain reliable.
• Weight: A vintage puka shell choker feels heavier than it looks, typically around 20 to 30 grams, due to dense natural shell material.

Styling a Boho Puka Shell Choker with Vintage Hair Accessories

The beauty of the p113 choker lies in its versatility. Its warm neutral tones complement both the strong geometric patterns of the 1970s and the delicate romanticism of Edwardian-inspired hairpieces.

For a daytime look, pair the choker with a simple twisted updo and a braided headband – the Sidney Braided Headband: A Vintage Hair Accessory Guide offers insights on how to choose a headband that echoes the choker's texture without overpowering it. For evening events, consider a low chignon adorned with a soft blush rose crown; the Vintage Blush Rose Crown: A Collector's Guide explores how to coordinate floral hair accessories with shell jewellery for a cohesive vintage aesthetic.

Caring for Your Vintage Puka Shell Choker

Shell is porous and sensitive to acids, perfumes, and humidity. To preserve the p113 choker, store it in a soft cloth pouch away from direct sunlight. After wearing, wipe the shells gently with a damp cloth and dry immediately. Never submerge the cord in water, as waxed cotton can rot from the inside. If the cord becomes loose after years of wear, re-knot it yourself using a simple double overhand knot – do not seal the ends with glue, as that damages the cord's flexibility. For deep cleaning, use a very soft toothbrush and mild soap on the shells only, then air dry flat overnight.

Building a Vintage Kit Around the p113 Choker

Collectors often seek complementary pieces from the same era – brass bangles, velvet ribbon chokers, and silk scarf hair ties. The p113 choker pairs particularly well with a low ponytail cinched with a vintage silk scarf, or with a simple claw clip that keeps the hair off the neck and draws attention to the collarbone area. Because the choker is modest in width, it also works beautifully layered with other necklaces, though purists prefer to let the shells speak alone. The key is balance: if your hair accessory is ornate, keep the choker as the quiet anchor of the outfit.

When you next encounter a choker labelled 'p113', check the cord condition and ask for the provenance – a well-documented piece from that Covent Garden boutique can become the anchor of a personal vintage accessory collection. Look for handwritten tags or old stock cards; they're the best proof of origin.