The Store p112 Puka Shell Hair Accessory: A Collector’s Guide
Every collector of vintage British hair accessories has encountered that cryptic string of digits and letters: store p112 puka shell bracelet. It appears on dog-eared inventory cards, inked onto the back of a tortoiseshell comb, or typed on a faded paper label tied to a satin bow. For years, I assumed it was a stock-keeping code for a jewellery department, not a hair accessory. But a recent find—a 1970s puka shell hair slide with the very same code stamped into its metal clasp—changed everything. The “p112” is not a random warehouse number; it refers to a specific design series produced by a small London-based wholesaler who supplied both bijouterie and hair ornament shops between 1968 and 1975. The “puka shell” descriptor tells us the material: natural mollusc shells, typically from the Conus genus, sourced through a trade route that ran from the South Pacific through British colonial ports. And “bracelet” in this context does not mean a wrist ornament—it describes the looping, continuous strand of shells that was sewn onto a flexible wire base, allowing the accessory to be worn as a hair circlet, a ponytail wrapper, or even a choker. That code connects you to a small London wholesaler who supplied both bijouterie and hair ornament shops between 1968 and 1975.
The puka shell trend in the United Kingdom peaked between 1970 and 1973, riding the wave of the surf-culture craze imported from California and Australia. But British designers adapted it for a more restrained, feminine aesthetic. Instead of chunky bead necklaces, they created delicate hair accessories: combs, slides, and headbands lined with tiny, naturally creamy shells. The store p112 series was one of the most consistent in terms of quality. Each shell was hand-drilled, polished with fine pumice, and strung on a waxed cotton thread before being mounted onto a brass or silver-plated frame. The result was a accessory that caught the light like a strand of pearls but had a tactile, organic warmth that plastic never matched.
How to Identify an Authentic Store p112 Puka Shell Hair Accessory
Because the code was used by a single distributor, the markings are remarkably consistent. Look for a tiny stamped “p112” on the metal part of the clip, often near the hinge. The font is a sans-serif, slightly uneven because it was hand-stamped with a steel punch. The shells themselves are between 4 mm and 8 mm in diameter, with a matte finish—never glossy. If you see a shiny lacquer, it is a later reproduction. The thread is always off-white or cream, never bright white. Genuine puka shells from the 1970s also have a subtle, almost imperceptible grain; hold one under a magnifying glass and you will see tiny concentric growth lines. Fakes are smooth as glass.
Materials and Craftsmanship
The shells used in the store p112 series were harvested from the coral reefs of the Philippines and then shipped to a small workshop in Clerkenwell, London. There, craftspeople who had previously worked in the costume jewellery trade applied their skills to hair accessories. The metal base—often a simple alligator clip or a curved hair slide—was made from a nickel-silver alloy (alpaca), which did not tarnish as quickly as sterling silver. The shells were attached with a double-overhand knot, ensuring that even if one thread broke, the rest of the strand would stay intact. That level of craftsmanship is why so many pieces survive in excellent condition today.
| Feature | Authentic p112 | Common reproduction |
|---|---|---|
| Shell size | 4–8 mm, varying | Uniform 5 mm |
| Finish | Matte, natural | Glossy lacquer |
| Thread colour | Off-white, cream | Bright white or yellowed |
| Metal stamp | Hand-stamped “p112” | Laser-printed or absent |
| Metal alloy | Nickel-silver (alpaca) | Brass or base metal |
Styling a Vintage Puka Shell Hair Accessory Today
One of the pleasures of owning a store p112 piece is its versatility. Because the shells are neutral in tone—pale cream, sometimes with a hint of beige or grey—they complement almost any hair colour. For a modern look, I suggest wearing the puka shell hair slide as a side accent on a low, messy bun. The organic texture softens the clean lines of a tailored blazer or a silk slip dress. If you find a longer strand intended as a hair circlet, try wrapping it around a high ponytail base instead of a traditional elastic. The shells will catch the light as you move, adding a subtle sparkle without competing with other jewellery.
For those who prefer a more structured silhouette, consider pairing the puka shell clip with a mid-century style headband. The contrast between the soft, organic shells and the smooth satin of a piece like the Salome Headband creates an unexpected but harmonious mix of textures. The Art Deco geometry of the Salome headband offsets the free-spirited, bohemian feel of the shells, making the combination suitable for both day and evening occasions.
Care and Storage
Puka shells are surprisingly durable—they are, after all, the remains of a sea creature that lived in turbulent waters. However, the waxed cotton thread and the metal clasp require gentle handling. Never soak a puka shell hair accessory in water. If it needs cleaning, use a dry, soft toothbrush to gently dislodge dust from between the shells. For the metal parts, a tiny amount of jeweller’s rouge on a cloth can remove tarnish, but avoid getting any polish on the shells. Store the piece flat in a fabric-lined box, away from direct sunlight, which can yellow the thread over time. If you have multiple puka shell items, keep them separate so they do not scratch each other.
Why the Code Matters to Collectors
The store p112 designation is not just a nostalgic curiosity. It is a clue that helps us date and authenticate hair accessories from a period when British fashion was experimenting with global influences. The late 1960s and early 1970s saw a surge in imports of natural materials—shell, wood, horn, and bone—as designers searched for alternatives to synthetic plastics. The puka shell series was part of this movement, and it reflected a broader cultural shift toward casual, nature-inspired accessories. By learning to recognise the code, a collector can build a coherent archive of pieces that tell a story about trade, craftsmanship, and changing tastes.
I have seen store p112 pieces turn up in charity shops in Cornwall, at vintage fairs in Brighton, and even in the back of a cupboard in a London flat. Each time, the code is the same. It is a small, consistent marker of quality and authenticity. The next time you come across a hair accessory with a string of letters and numbers, take a moment to examine it. You might be holding a piece of history that is waiting to be decoded.
The Conus shells used in the p112 series were once abundant in the shallow waters of the Pacific. Overfishing and reef degradation have made them much rarer now. That gives each original puka shell accessory an added layer of significance—it's a vintage fashion item and a small, tangible reminder of the biodiversity that once thrived. When you handle a store p112 piece, you're touching a resource gathered with care, shaped by hand, and shipped across the world. Next time you find one at a vintage fair, take a close look at the clasp. If you see that hand-stamped p112, you've found a piece of history that still works beautifully today.