Ric Rac No. 3: The Bold Vintage Trim for Hair Accessories

The zigzag silhouette of Ric Rac No. 3 is instantly recognisable to anyone who has handled a 1950s hairband or a 1960s barrette. Measuring about 12 mm across from peak to peak, this heavy-duty cotton braid was a favourite among British milliners and hobbyists alike. Unlike its finer cousins (No. 1 and No. 2), the number 3 size creates a pronounced, sculptural wave that stands out even on a dark head of hair. It is a trim that does not whisper — it announces itself with every twist and turn.

What Is Ric Rac? A Brief History

Ric Rac (also spelled rickrack) is a flat, zigzag braid originally machine-made from cotton or rayon. Its origins trace back to early 20th-century Europe, where it was used as an edging for aprons, children’s clothing, and home linens. By the 1940s and 1950s, British manufacturers began incorporating Ric Rac into hair accessories, drawn to its ability to add texture and movement without the weight of metal or plastic. The three standard sizes emerged: No. 1 for delicate trims, No. 2 for medium embellishments, and No. 3 for bold, statement pieces. The No. 3 width became the hallmark of many vintage hairbands, clips, and combs, especially those made in the Midlands and Lancashire.

Materials and Construction Techniques

Authentic vintage Ric Rac No. 3 is almost always made of tightly woven cotton or a cotton-rayon blend. The fibres are mercerised to give a subtle sheen, which catches the light and makes the zigzag pattern pop. When used on hair accessories, the trim is typically hand-stitched or machine-stitched onto a fabric base — velvet, grosgrain ribbon, or felt. The ends are often hidden under a metal clasp or tucked into a fabric loop. Because the trim is flat, it lies neatly against the scalp without creating uncomfortable pressure points, making it ideal for all-day wear.

Collectors should look for even tension in the zigzags: original pieces have a consistent wave pattern without stretching or puckering. The reverse side of the trim shows a series of small loops where the thread forms the peaks. If the loops are irregular or frayed, the trim may have been poorly stored or is a later reproduction.

Iconic Silhouettes Featuring Ric Rac No. 3

Throughout the 20th century, several distinct hair accessory styles relied on the boldness of the No. 3 trim:

• 1950s Alice bands – A single row of Ric Rac No. 3 stitched along the top edge of a wide velvet headband. Often paired with a small bow or brooch at the side.
• 1960s barrettes – Metal or plastic snap clips covered in fabric with a border of Ric Rac No. 3 framing the top. The contrast of the zigzag against a solid colour (e.g., navy blue, forest green, or cherry red) was a hallmark of Mod-era accessories.
• 1970s hair combs – Tortoiseshell or mock-tortoiseshell combs with a strip of Ric Rac No. 3 glued or sewn into a groove along the top. These were often handmade by small artisans and sold at craft fairs.
• Velvet scrunchies – Less common but highly collectible, these scrunchies use a double layer of Ric Rac No. 3 to create a ruffled effect. They were popular in the late 1970s and early 1980s among women who wanted an alternative to elastic bands.

How to Identify Authentic Vintage Ric Rac No. 3

Reproduction Ric Rac is widely available today, but genuine vintage pieces have distinct characteristics. Look for these markers:

• Width consistency – Authentic No. 3 measures 10–13 mm from peak to peak. If it is narrower or wider, it may be a different size or a modern interpretation.
• Fabric feel – Vintage cotton Ric Rac is denser and less floppy than modern polyester versions. It holds its shape even after decades of storage.
• Colour palette – True vintage colours include muted pastels (peach, mint, baby blue), deep jewel tones (ruby, emerald, amethyst), and classic neutrals (cream, black, navy). Bright neon shades are almost always modern.
• Stitching – The machine stitching on the trim itself is very fine, with about 12–14 stitches per inch. If the stitches are coarse or uneven, the trim is likely a later copy.

Pairing Ric Rac No. 3 with a Modern Wardrobe

One of the joys of vintage hair accessories is their ability to bridge decades. A headband trimmed with Ric Rac No. 3 can look fresh and contemporary when styled thoughtfully. Here are three ways to wear it today:

1. With a minimalist outfit – Let the zigzag be the star. Pair a cream Ric Rac headband with a simple white blouse, tailored trousers, and low block heels. The texture of the trim adds interest without clashing.
2. With a monochrome palette – Choose a headband or barrette in a single colour (e.g., black Ric Rac on a black velvet base) and wear it with a matching top or scarf. The tonal look keeps the accessory feeling intentional rather than costume-like.
3. With a touch of the 1970s – A Ric Rac No. 3 hair comb worn on one side of a half-up ponytail, paired with flared jeans and a chunky knit sweater. This nods to the original era without being a full reenactment.

Bereavement Care and Storage Tips

Because Ric Rac No. 3 is made of natural fibres, it is susceptible to moisture, pests, and fading. To keep your vintage pieces in excellent condition:

• Store flat – Do not fold the headband or barrette in a way that creases the trim. Use a padded jewellery box or a shallow drawer lined with acid-free tissue paper.
• Avoid direct sunlight – Display pieces away from windows to prevent the cotton from yellowing or the colours from bleaching.
• Clean gently – Spot-clean with a soft, damp cloth and a tiny amount of mild soap. Never submerge the trim in water, as the base fabric may shrink or warp. For stubborn dirt, consult a textile conservator.
• Moth prevention – Use cedar blocks or lavender sachets in your storage area. Check every few months for signs of insect damage, especially if the trim has any starch residue.

One final note on colour fading: if you own a Ric Rac No. 3 piece in a vivid shade like fuchsia or turquoise, keep it away from perfumes and hairsprays. The alcohol in these products can accelerate dye loss. A single spritz of hairspray on a hot day could leave a permanent light patch on the trim.