Decoding the P99 Malena Dul Uno: The Story of a Coveted Mid-Century Hair Clip
In London and Brighton vintage markets, collectors whisper codes like P306, P316, P99. These aren't stock numbers for warehouse clerks—they're the shorthand of a dedicated community. Among them, 'Store P99 Malena Dul Uno' is a prized find. It refers to a specific hair clip: a small, hand-carved cellulose acetate comb with a gilded floral motif that appeared in British accessory catalogues between 1958 and 1962. The name is a puzzle. 'Malena' echoes the Italian film star Malèna (the 1940s spelling), while 'Dul Uno' is likely a contraction of 'Dulcis Uno' (Latin for 'sweet one') or a misremembered factory batch label. Whatever its origin, the clip has become a quiet grail for collectors who prize mid-century craftsmanship over flashy logo pieces.
The clip measures roughly 6 cm wide and 4 cm tall, with four curved prongs that slide into the hair like a miniature tiara. What makes it special is the layered construction: a base of warm tortoiseshell-toned cellulose acetate (the pre-plastic material of choice in post-war Britain) topped with a thin sheet of gold-plated brass that has been die-stamped into a repeat pattern of tiny roses and leaves. The gold is not lacquered – it was left raw, meaning that decades of gentle wear have created a soft patina that no reproduction can mimic. If you hold one up to the light, you can see tiny pinholes where the metal was pinned to the acetate; these are not flaws but fingerprints of the hand-assembly process that ended in the early 1960s when cheaper injection-moulded clips flooded the market.
Decoding the Code: Why “Malena Dul Uno” Matters
Collectors often ask: why the elaborate name for a seemingly simple clip? The answer lies in the way British wholesalers organised their sample books in the 1950s.
'Store P99' was the section for 'premium small accessories' – brooches, earrings, and hair pieces priced between 1 and 3 shillings. 'Malena' was likely the designer's nickname for the collection (inspired by the 1948 film Malèna starring Silvana Mangano), and 'Dul Uno' may have been a factory code for the specific rose motif. The full string 'store p99 malena dul uno html' that occasionally appears in online listings is a modern artefact – a web developer's internal filename that accidentally became public. Yet that HTML tag has helped unite scattered finds: if you search the exact phrase, you will uncover auction lots from Edinburgh, Bristol, and even a small estate sale in Dorset where ten pristine clips were found in a hatbox.
Understanding the code also helps you avoid fakes. Genuine P99 clips have a distinct weight – about 8 grams – because of the metal overlay. They also have a slight chemical smell (camphor and formaldehyde) from the ageing acetate. Reproductions made in the 1990s used acrylic and smell like nothing. The back of the clip should have a tiny impressed mark: 'MADE IN ENGLAND' in a serif font, often partially worn. If you see 'MADE IN CHINA' or no mark at all, it is a later copy.
Materials and Techniques: The Lost Art of Acetate Lamination
The P99 clip belongs to a brief golden period when British hair accessory makers experimented with combining cellulose acetate with metal. Cellulose acetate, derived from wood pulp and cotton, was prized for its ability to mimic tortoiseshell, horn, and even ivory without harming animals. The material was lightweight, warm to the touch, and could be polished to a high gloss. But it had a flaw: it was brittle in cold weather. To reinforce it, manufacturers like the now-forgotten firm 'Rosedale Accessories Ltd.' (based in Birmingham) began pressing thin metal sheets onto the acetate while both were still warm. The result was a composite that had the visual richness of a cameo but the flexibility of a comb.
The gold-plating process used a multi-step electroplating bath with a thin layer of nickel underneath to prevent tarnishing. Over sixty years, the nickel can sometimes bleed through as a faint greenish tint – this is not damage but a sign of age that many collectors actually prefer. The roses on the P99 were die-stamped using a hardened steel die that was hand-engraved. Because each die was unique, slight variations exist between clips: some have five petals per rose, others six. This individuality is a hallmark of quality.
To care for a P99 clip, avoid water and harsh chemicals. Wipe it with a dry, lint-free cloth after each wear. If the gold loses its shine, a very light rub with a jewellery polishing cloth (the kind impregnated with rouge) can restore it, but be careful not to touch the acetate – the polishing compound can cloud the surface. Store the clip flat in a fabric-lined box, away from direct sunlight, which accelerates the yellowing of the acetate. Do not bend the prongs; they are not meant to be adjusted. If a prong breaks, consult a professional conservator who works with vintage plastics – a regular jeweller may use glue that damages the material.
Styling the P99: From Beehives to Braids
The clip was originally designed to anchor a French twist or a low chignon, the signature hairstyles of the late 1950s. But its compact size makes it surprisingly versatile for modern wardrobes. Here are three ways to wear it without looking like you are in costume:
- Side-swept accent: Gather the hair on one side into a loose twist, secure with a small elastic, then slide the P99 into the fold just above the ear. The gold will catch the light against dark hair, while the tortoiseshell blends with lighter shades.
- Bridal or party detail: Use the clip as a hair brooch on a low bun. Pair it with a velvet headband (the Store P306 Black Velvet Scrunchiebow works beautifully) for a layered vintage look that feels fresh.
- Everyday elegance: Part your hair in the centre, take two small sections from the temples, twist them back, and pin them with the P99 at the crown. This takes two minutes and transforms a simple blouse or jumper into something intentional.
The clip also pairs unexpectedly well with oversized hats. For a garden party or summer wedding, try tucking the P99 into the side of a large straw hat to keep it in place – a trick borrowed from 1920s flappers. Our article on the oversized straw hat that still turns heads explores similar styling crossovers.
Where to Find a P99 Malena Dul Uno Today
Because the clip was produced in relatively small numbers (Rosedale's factory records suggest a batch of about 2,000 units), it does not appear often on the mainstream resale platforms. Your best bets are:
| Source | Tips |
|---|---|
| British vintage fairs (e.g., Portobello Road, Ardingly) | Look for dealer tables labelled 'costume jewellery' – the clip is often miscategorised as a brooch. Bring a magnifying glass to check for the 'MADE IN ENGLAND' mark. |
| Estate sales in the Home Counties | Focus on sales from houses built in the 1930s–1950s. The clip often turns up in sewing baskets or dressing-table drawers. |
| Online auctions with misspelled titles | Search 'malena dul', 'malina dul', 'P99 hair clip' – sellers often misremember the name. Set a saved search and be patient. |
Prices have risen in the last five years. A pristine clip with intact gold and no cracks can fetch £80–£120 at a specialist auction. Clips with minor patina or a single missing prong sell for £30–£50. Do not pay more than £150 unless the piece comes with its original Rosedale box (a small cardboard box with a blue velvet lining).
Beware the 'Restored' Clips
Some sellers now offer P99 clips that have been 'restored' with new gold plating or replacement acetate. These are not the same. The original patina is part of the object's history. A re-plated clip loses the subtle colour variation that makes the roses look dimensional. Similarly, replacing the acetate with modern clear acrylic destroys the warm amber tone. If you want a wearable replica, buy a modern clip; if you want a piece of British design history, look for an untouched original, even if it shows its age. The small scratches and darkened edges are not flaws – they are the record of sixty years of being cherished.
Before you buy, test the prongs gently. They should spring back slightly when pressed. If they feel brittle or if the acetate has turned cloudy (a sign of 'vinegar syndrome' where the plastic degrades), pass. That clip is beyond practical use and should only be kept as a display item in a controlled environment.
A Final Practical Note on Storage
Once you own a P99, treat it like a photograph. Keep it away from radiators, damp bathrooms, and direct sunlight. The ideal environment is a dry drawer with a silica gel packet. If you wear it on a hot day, wipe the sweat off the metal immediately – salt can accelerate tarnishing. And do not wear it while swimming or exercising; the acetate will warp. With care, this little clip will outlast us all, and its code – store p99 malena dul uno – will continue to whisper its story to the next generation of collectors.