The Lapis Bertha P562: A Mid-Century Hair Comb Worth Collecting

The Lapis Bertha, catalogued under store reference P562, is one of those rare hair accessories that feels both of its time and entirely timeless. Unlike the more common tortoiseshell or celluloid combs of the 1950s, this piece incorporates genuine lapis lazuli—a deep blue stone flecked with golden pyrite—set into a silver-toned metal base. The combination immediately signals an ambition beyond everyday wear; this was a piece designed for evening occasions, for the woman who understood that a hair comb could be a quiet statement of personal taste. The Bertha silhouette itself—a gently arched comb with a decorative top edge—had been a staple of British millinery and accessory design since the late 1940s, but the P562 variant pushes it into something closer to jewellery.

The Origins of the Bertha Silhouette

The name “Bertha” in the context of mid-century hair accessories refers to a specific comb shape: a wide, curved base with a decorative band across the top, often featuring inlaid stones, enamel, or carved motifs. It takes its name from the wide collar worn in Victorian and Edwardian fashion—the bertha collar—because the comb’s shape echoes that broad, shoulder-skimming line when worn at the back of the head. By the 1950s, British manufacturers such as Maison Archives had standardised the Bertha as a versatile evening piece. The P562 variant, however, stands apart for its material choice. Lapis lazuli was not commonly used in mass-produced accessories; it was expensive and required skilled lapidary work to cut the stone into thin, even cabochons. This suggests that the P562 was produced in limited numbers, perhaps for a specific boutique or a short-lived collaboration between Maison Archives and a London jeweller.

Materials and Craftsmanship

The P562 Lapis Bertha is constructed from a base of sterling silver or silver-plated brass (early examples are hallmarked, later ones are not). The lapis lazuli cabochons are set in a continuous row along the top edge, held by tiny prongs that are almost invisible to the naked eye. Each stone is cut to a uniform oval shape, approximately 6mm by 4mm, and the colour ranges from a deep royal blue to a slightly lighter azure with visible gold flecks. The back of the comb is left plain, with the original maker’s mark “MA” (Maison Archives) and the store code “P562” stamped into the metal. The teeth are cut from the same metal sheet, tapered for easy insertion into the hair. The comb is surprisingly lightweight—the lapis is not thick—and sits comfortably against the scalp.

The Lapis Bertha in Context: 1950s British Evening Fashion

In post-war Britain, evening hair accessories were a discreet way to add glamour without the expense of a full jewellery set. The P562 Lapis Bertha would have been worn with a simple updo—a French twist or a low chignon—to anchor the style and provide a flash of colour against dark or neutral gowns. The deep blue of the lapis complemented the popular jewel tones of the era: emerald green, ruby red, and sapphire blue. It also worked beautifully with the new synthetic fabrics like nylon and rayon, which often had a subtle sheen that echoed the stone’s lustre. Unlike the more whimsical fruit- or bow-shaped clips of the same period, the Lapis Bertha was unapologetically grown-up. It was a piece for theatre evenings, dinner parties, and formal dances.

Identifying Authentic P562 Pieces

Because the Lapis Bertha is now a collector’s item, it is worth knowing how to verify an original. Look for the hallmark on the back of the comb—if present, it will read “MA” followed by “P562”. The lapis should show natural variations in colour and the characteristic gold pyrite inclusions; uniform, completely opaque blue stones are likely dyed howlite or a synthetic substitute. The metal should have a warm patina, not a bright, uniform polish. Original pieces often come with a small velvet pouch stamped with the Maison Archives logo, though these are rarely found today. If you encounter a P562 with a broken tooth or a missing stone, do not discard it—many collectors value the piece for its historical significance and will have it restored by a jeweller who specialises in vintage hair accessories.

Styling the Lapis Bertha Today

The beauty of the P562 lies in its versatility. While it was originally an evening piece, it can easily be adapted for daytime wear if paired with the right outfit. Consider wearing it as a single accent in a half-up, half-down style, letting the blue stone catch the light against a simple white blouse or a navy cashmere jumper. For a more dramatic look, use two Lapis Berthas—if you can find a matching pair—to frame a low bun on either side. The comb works equally well in thick hair and fine hair, thanks to its tapered teeth that grip without pulling. Because lapis lazuli is a relatively soft stone (5–6 on the Mohs scale), avoid wearing the comb in very humid conditions or while swimming, as moisture can dull the stone’s polish over time.

Care and Maintenance

To preserve the P562 Lapis Bertha, store it separately from other metal accessories to prevent scratching. A soft jewellery pouch or a lined box is ideal. Clean the metal parts with a dry, lint-free cloth after each wear to remove oils and hairspray residue. For the lapis stones, avoid harsh chemical cleaners—a gentle wipe with a slightly damp cloth followed by immediate drying is sufficient. If the comb becomes tarnished, use a silver polishing cloth only on the metal, being careful not to touch the stones. Never soak the comb in liquid, as the stones are glued into their settings and moisture can weaken the adhesive. With proper care, the P562 can remain a wearable heirloom for decades.

Collecting the P562: What to Look For

The Lapis Bertha appears at auction and on vintage platforms a few times a year, often listed simply as “vintage blue stone hair comb” without the store reference. To identify it, search for the combination of lapis lazuli, a curved silver or silver-toned base, and the Bertha silhouette. Prices vary widely depending on condition and provenance. A complete comb with all stones intact and a clear hallmark can fetch between £120 and £250. Pieces with minor damage—a missing stone or a bent tooth—are significantly cheaper and can be a good entry point for a collector who knows a restorer. If you are new to vintage hair accessories, start by familiarising yourself with other Bertha variants from the same period. For instance, the Store P546 Bertha Hairclip offers a textile-based interpretation of the same silhouette, while the Quiet Triumph of the P279 Imogen Bow Barrette shows how Maison Archives translated bow motifs into precious materials. Understanding these connections helps you recognise the design language that makes the P562 so distinctive.

A Final Note on Authenticity and Enjoyment

The P562 Lapis Bertha is not a piece to be locked away in a drawer. It was made to be worn, to catch the light, and to bring a touch of mid-century craftsmanship into everyday life. When you find one, take the time to examine the stones under a bright lamp—the tiny gold flecks inside the lapis are a reminder that this comb was cut from real rock, shaped by human hands, and chosen by someone who valued quality over trend. Wear it with confidence, and treat it with the same care you would a fine piece of jewellery. That is the spirit of conscious vintage fashion: not just collecting, but cherishing and using the objects that connect us to a more thoughtful era of design.