The P556 Ruby Bertha: A Collector’s Guide to a Mid-Century British Hair Comb

The first time I held a P556 Ruby Bertha, it was in a small antiques shop in Bath, tucked between a tarnished silver brush set and a stack of yellowing fashion plates. The comb's deep red celluloid caught the afternoon light, and the dealer, an elderly woman with a keen eye for quality, simply said, "That's a Ruby Bertha. They don't make them like that anymore." She was right. The P556 is one of those rare pieces that stops you mid-sentence — not because of ostentation, but because of the quiet, confident craftsmanship that defined mid-century British hair accessories at their best.

For collectors who appreciate the intersection of material history and wearable design, the Store P556 Ruby Bertha represents a fascinating chapter in the story of British millinery and hair ornamentation. Unlike the more commonly encountered black or tortoiseshell celluloid pieces, the ruby coloration is both striking and relatively scarce, making it a prized find for those who know what to look for.

What Is a Bertha Comb?

The term "Bertha" in the context of hair combs refers to a specific silhouette: a wide, gently curved comb with a decorative top section, designed to be worn horizontally across the crown or at the nape of the neck. The name is believed to derive from the wide lace collars popular in the Victorian era, known as "Bertha collars," which similarly framed the shoulders and neck. By the mid-20th century, British manufacturers had adopted the term for combs that echoed that same framing effect — a band of ornamentation that cradled the head.

The P556 Ruby Bertha follows this tradition faithfully. Its body is crafted from a single piece of high-quality celluloid, molded into a gentle arc that follows the natural curve of the head. The decorative top section features a repeating pattern of stylized floral motifs, pressed into the material with a clarity that speaks to the precision of mid-century tooling. The ruby colour is not a surface dye but runs through the entire thickness of the celluloid, giving the comb a luminous depth that cheaper imitations can never replicate.

Materials and Construction: The Art of Celluloid

Celluloid, invented in the mid-19th century as an ivory substitute, was the material of choice for many British hair accessory manufacturers well into the 1950s. It is lightweight, warm to the touch, and can be molded into intricate shapes that would be impossible or prohibitively expensive in natural materials. The P556 Ruby Bertha exemplifies the best qualities of celluloid: it has a subtle translucency when held up to light, and the ruby pigment interacts with light in a way that creates a soft, gem-like glow.

Authenticating a P556 Ruby Bertha requires a close look at several details. First, the colour: genuine ruby celluloid from this era has a deep, wine-like red with slight variations in tone — not an even, plastic-looking crimson. Second, the construction: the teeth of the comb are individually cut and polished, not molded in a single cast with the body. You can feel the slight hand-finishing if you run your fingertip along the edges. Third, the patina: a well-preserved P556 will have a gentle, even surface sheen, with no sticky or cloudy residue — signs of celluloid degradation that sadly affect many pieces from this period.

If you are considering adding a P556 to your collection, always check for "celluloid sickness" — a chemical breakdown that causes the material to become tacky, discoloured, or to develop a vinegar-like smell. Proper storage in a cool, dry, dark environment is essential. Avoid airtight containers, as celluloid needs to breathe; a padded box with acid-free tissue paper is ideal.

A Brief History of the Ruby Bertha in British Fashion

The 1940s and 1950s were a golden age for elaborate hair combs in Britain. With fabric rationing still fresh in memory and a cultural shift towards polished, put-together femininity, accessories became a way to refresh a wardrobe without spending clothing coupons. Hair combs, in particular, offered a quick transformation: a simple chignon or roll could be elevated with the addition of a well-placed Bertha comb.

The ruby colour was especially popular during this period. It complemented the deep red lipsticks and nail polishes favoured by women of the era, and it added a touch of warmth to the muted tones of post-war fashion — tweeds, greys, navy, and forest green. The P556 Ruby Bertha would have been worn to church, to dinner parties, and on special occasions, often paired with a matching brooch or earrings. It was not a daily accessory; it was a statement piece, chosen with care and worn with pride.

Interestingly, the P556 designation suggests a specific production code from a British manufacturer, likely based in Birmingham or London's Hatton Garden area, where many jewellery and accessory workshops were clustered. While the exact factory records have been lost, the consistency of the P-series numbering across surviving pieces indicates a systematic cataloguing system — a sign of a serious, established maker.

Styling the P556 Ruby Bertha Today

One of the great joys of collecting vintage hair accessories is finding ways to integrate them into contemporary life. The P556 Ruby Bertha is surprisingly versatile. Its warm red tone works beautifully with autumnal colours — think rust, mustard, olive, and cream — but it also pops against black or white for a more dramatic effect.

For a modern look, try wearing the comb as a crown accent: sweep your hair into a low, loose bun, then slide the Bertha in just above the nape, allowing the decorative top to fan out like a tiara. Alternatively, use it to secure a half-up style, letting the comb sit just behind the ears. The key is to let the comb be the focal point — keep other accessories minimal.

If you are new to styling vintage combs, practice inserting it before a special event. The teeth should slide in smoothly without pulling; if they catch, the comb may need gentle adjustment (never force it, as celluloid can crack). A light application of hairspray on the section where the comb will sit can help it grip without slipping.

Collector's Notes: What to Look For

When hunting for a P556 Ruby Bertha, condition is everything. Here is a quick checklist to guide your evaluation:

• Colour integrity: The ruby should be deep and even, with no fading or yellowing. Slight variations in tone are normal and desirable; blotchiness is not.
• Tooth condition: All teeth should be present and unbroken. Missing or repaired teeth significantly reduce value.
• Surface quality: Look for a smooth, glossy finish. Scratches can be polished out by a professional, but deep gouges or cracks are permanent.
• Maker's mark: Some P556 pieces are stamped on the back with a manufacturer's mark or the "P556" code. This adds provenance and value.
• No stickiness: As mentioned, celluloid degradation is a dealbreaker unless you are prepared for conservation work.

Prices for a P556 in excellent condition typically range from £40 to £120, depending on the retailer and the piece's provenance. Combs with their original box or accompanying paperwork can fetch higher prices. Online auction sites and specialist vintage accessory dealers are the best hunting grounds, but do not overlook charity shops and house clearance sales — the P556 has a way of turning up where you least expect it.

Caring for Your Ruby Bertha

Once you have secured a P556, proper care will ensure it lasts for generations. Celluloid is sensitive to heat, humidity, and prolonged exposure to light. Store your comb away from radiators and direct sunlight. A gentle wipe with a soft, dry cloth after each wear will remove hair oils and product residue. For a deeper clean, use a barely damp cotton bud to clean between the teeth, then dry immediately.

Never immerse celluloid in water or cleaning solutions. If the comb develops a mild haze, a specialist conservator can buff it with a fine polishing compound — but this is not a DIY job for beginners. When in doubt, leave it alone. A stable, well-stored P556 will outlive us all.

For those who wish to explore similar pieces from the same era, the Store p546 Bertha Hairclip: A Mid-Century British Accessory with Textile Roots offers an interesting contrast — a clip rather than a comb, but with the same attention to material quality. Meanwhile, the Store P549 Ivy Bertha: A Collector’s Guide to a Mid-Century Hair Comb presents a green-toned variant that collectors often pair with the ruby for a complementary display.

The P556 Ruby Bertha is more than a vintage accessory; it is a piece of British design history, a testament to the skill of mid-century craftspeople, and a wearable work of art. Finding one in good condition is a moment to treasure — especially when you spot it at a flea market or a dusty estate sale, still holding that deep, wine-red glow. Treat it well, wear it with joy, and if you ever decide to part with it, pass it on to someone who will understand its quiet story.