The Store P549 Ivy Bertha: A Collector’s Guide to a Mid-Century Hair Comb

Among the more elusive entries in post-war British hair-accessory archives, the code Store P549 Ivy Bertha regularly surfaces on inventory lists from the late 1940s and early 1950s. Unlike the widely documented barrettes and clips from Maison Archives, the Ivy Bertha is a curved hair comb — almost always made of deep honey-toned celluloid or early plastic — that carries a repeating ivy-leaf motif along its upper edge. The name ‘Bertha’ in period trade catalogues referred to a wide, fan-shaped comb designed to hold a sleek chignon or a side-swept roll, while ‘Ivy’ described the botanical pattern cut into the material. This article pieces together what we know about the P549 variant, how to authenticate it, and how to wear it today without turning your look into a museum piece.

The Historical Context of the Bertha Comb

The Bertha comb reached the height of its popularity in Britain during the austerity years and the early New Look era. Unlike the small, snap-in barrettes that dominated teenage hair, the Bertha was an adult’s accessory — wide enough to anchor a crown of pinned curls or to hold a velvet bandeau in place. The Ivy Bertha specifically appeared in a handful of London department-store catalogues between 1948 and 1952, always marked with the stock number P549. The pattern mimics trailing ivy, a motif borrowed from Victorian jewellery and adapted for affordable, mass-produced hairpieces. The comb’s gentle arc, usually between 10 and 12 centimetres across, was moulded, not carved, making it accessible to a broad market. Surviving examples show the ivy leaves rendered in low relief, a technique that required careful hand-finishing of the mould to avoid sharp edges.

Design Details and Materials

The P549 Ivy Bertha is instantly recognisable by three characteristics:

• Colour and translucency — Genuine pieces are made from a cellulose acetate or early phenolic resin that develops a warm, amber glow with age. The tint ranges from light caramel to a deep tortoiseshell brown, often with subtle mottling that confirms the absence of modern uniform dyes.
• Leaf placement — The ivy leaves are arranged in a continuous undulating band along the top curve, about 6–8 leaves per comb. Each leaf has a veined centre line and a gently upturned tip, giving the piece a natural, organic flow when worn.
• Teeth and base — The teeth are round-tipped, slightly flexible, and set at a 70-degree angle to the spine. A genuine P549 will have between 14 and 16 teeth, evenly spaced, with no sharp mould-lines. The base where the teeth meet the decorated spine is slightly thicker, reinforcing the comb’s strength without adding weight.

Collectors should be wary of later reprocessed combs that use brittle polystyrene or painted-on patterns. The original Ivy Bertha’s colour is integral to the material, not painted, so a black light test (most early celluloids fluoresce under UV) can help confirm authenticity, though such testing should be done gently to avoid damaging the piece.

Identifying an Original Store P549

Because the P549 was a stock number rather than a brand name, you may find it stamped on the back of the comb in tiny raised letters or etched into the spine. The stamp often reads ‘STORE P549’ or ‘IVY BERTHA P549’. However, many combs left the factory without markings; retailers sometimes added their own paper labels that have since fallen away. In that case, look for the distinctive leaf shape — later copies tend to have stiffer, more symmetrical leaves that lack the slight asymmetry of the original mould. A side-by-side comparison with a documented example, such as the one displayed at the Museum of London’s dress collections, can be invaluable. For further orientation on mid-century British hair accessories, our guide to the The Store P222 Velvet Crown Headband explains similar material-identification cues for velvet bands that often accompanied Bertha combs in period ensembles.

Caring for a Vintage Celluloid Comb

Celluloid and early acetate require gentler handling than modern plastics. Follow these steps to preserve your P549:

1. Store flat, never bent — The comb’s arc is fixed; stacking heavy objects on top will flatten the curve and cause stress cracks along the leaf tips. A soft cloth pouch or a shallow jewellery tray works best.
2. Keep away from heat and direct sunlight — Vintage plastics can warp or become sticky above 40°C. Avoid leaving the comb on a sunny windowsill or near a radiator.
3. Clean with a damp, not wet, cloth — Use a microfiber cloth barely moistened with distilled water. Never soak the comb, and never use alcohol or acetone — these solvents dissolve the surface.
4. Polish sparingly — A tiny amount of museum-grade acrylic polish (not furniture wax) can revive the gloss, but only on the decorated side. Rub gently with a soft cotton cloth, then buff immediately.

If your Ivy Bertha has lost its lustre or developed a white haze (‘celluloid sickness’), a light application of refined mineral oil can sometimes restore clarity — but test on an inconspicuous tooth first. Remember that a slight patina is part of the comb’s charm and does not need to be fully removed.

Styling the Ivy Bertha with a Contemporary Wardrobe

A wide Bertha comb can look unexpectedly modern when treated as a structural accent rather than a period piece. Here are three practical ways to integrate it:

• The subtle anchor — Sweep your hair into a low bun at the nape of the neck, then slide the comb in from the top, teeth facing downward, so the ivy leaves peek out just above the rolled edge. Pair with a crisp white blouse and high-waisted trousers for a look that references the 1940s without being costume.
• The side-sweep statement — Part your hair on one side, gather the bulk to the opposite side, and secure with the comb about two inches above the ear. Let the ivy leaves face forward, catching the light. This works beautifully with a simple silk slip dress or a tailored blazer — the comb becomes the focal point.
• The velvet-and-celluloid combination — For evening, layer the Ivy Bertha over a thin velvet headband (the deep jewel tones of a burgundy or emerald band contrast nicely with the warm amber of the comb). This pairing echoes the layered accessories of the early 1950s but reads as editorial rather than anachronistic. If you are curious about such velvet pieces, our article on The Store P222 Velvet Crown Headband provides details on period-appropriate velvet bands that pair well with the Ivy Bertha.

One common mistake is wearing the comb too high on the crown, which can make the leaves look like a small tiara and tilt the overall silhouette into costume territory. Keep it low and centred — the Bertha’s strength is its quiet profile, not its height.

Where to Look for the P549 Today

Because the Stock P549 was a retailer-specific number, you are unlikely to find it at large vintage fairs under that code. Instead, search for ‘vintage ivy comb’, ‘celluloid Bertha comb’, or ‘honey tortoiseshell leaf comb’. British charity shops, particularly in smaller towns with stable populations, occasionally yield these combs still tucked into old handbags or hatboxes. Online auction platforms can be fruitful, but always request a photo of the reverse to check for mould marks or stamps. A comb with no markings but with perfect leaf proportions and a warm, translucent colour is still a worthy acquisition — many unmarked P549s circulate among collectors who recognise the pattern instantly.

When you do find one, handle it gently. Unpack it from its wrapping, hold it up to the light, and look for the tiny veins in each ivy leaf. That connection to a time when a simple factory mould produced something that still catches the eye seventy years later is the very heart of vintage collecting.