The p536 Elena Hairclip: A Collector’s Guide to a Mid-Century British Treasure

The Elena hairclip, catalogued as store p536, is a lesser-known but charming example of mid-century British hair jewellery. Unlike the more flamboyant bow barrettes or star motifs that often steal the spotlight, this clip presents a quiet, refined silhouette — a gently curved tortoiseshell base topped with a slender gold-toned metal overlay in the shape of a stylised leaf. It was produced during the late 1950s to early 1960s, a period when British hair accessories balanced practicality with a touch of the ornamental. The clip measures approximately 6.5 centimetres in length, making it substantial enough to hold a thick section of hair, yet delicate enough to sit gracefully on a side sweep.

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Origins and Design Context

The p536 Elena belongs to a series of numbered clips from the Maison Archives that were sold through British department stores and independent hair salons in the post-war era. The name "Elena" was not a brand but a model designation, likely chosen to evoke European elegance. The clip is constructed from two materials: the base is a honey-coloured tortoiseshell (a celluloid imitation, as genuine tortoiseshell was already restricted by the 1950s) and the top layer is a thin brass plate with a warm gold wash. The leaf motif is hammered lightly to create a subtle vein pattern, a detail that catches the light when the hair moves.

This combination of imitation tortoiseshell and gold-toned metal was typical of the era. Celluloid allowed affordable mass production while replicating the rich translucency of real shell. The gold overlay was often applied using electroplating, which gave a durable finish that resists tarnishing if stored properly. The Elena is not a rare piece — many survive in charity shops and vintage markets — but it is often overlooked because of its understated design. That same understatement, however, makes it especially useful for modern wear.

How to Identify an Authentic Elena Clip

Because the Elena was produced in a series, collectors encounter a few variations. The defining features remain consistent:

• Base colour: A warm honey-amber tone, sometimes with darker streaks running through the celluloid. The colour should be even, not blotchy. Avoid clips that have turned a dark brown or greenish hue — that indicates degradation of the plastic.
• Metal overlay: A single leaf shape, approximately 2.5 centimetres at its widest point, with a central ridge and small side veins. The gold tone should be matte, not shiny, and there should be no visible maker's mark on the front. The reverse side often has a tiny stamped number "536" or "p536" near the hinge.
• Hinge mechanism: A spring-loaded metal hinge with a flat rectangular pad. The clip snaps shut with a crisp sound. If the hinge is sticky or the clip does not close fully, the spring may be worn — a common issue with age.
• Length: 6.5 cm from hinge to tip. This is a standard size for mid-century everyday clips.

For a similar collector’s approach to a different silhouette, see the The P245 Imogen Bow Barrette: A Collector's Guide to a 1960s British Hair Accessory, which covers the bow shape that was popular alongside the Elena.

Styling the Elena Hairclip Today

The Elena’s modest scale and neutral colouring make it a natural partner for modern outfits. Unlike statement pieces that demand a specific hairstyle, this clip works as a subtle accent. Here are three ways to wear it:

• Side-swept French twist: Gather hair to one side, twist loosely, and secure with the Elena placed just above the ear. The leaf shape echoes the curve of the hair, creating a soft, sculptural line.
• Half-up, half-down: Clip the Elena at the crown to hold back the top section. Let the rest fall in waves. The tortoiseshell blends with lighter hair colours, while the gold adds a warm highlight.
• As a front accent: For shorter hair, use the clip to tuck a side fringe behind the ear. The leaf points forward, drawing the eye without overwhelming the face.

The clip pairs well with textured fabrics like tweed, wool, and linen. It also complements gold jewellery — a simple chain necklace or small hoop earrings. Avoid wearing it with silver or platinum tones, as the warm gold will clash. Because the Elena is small, it can be layered with other clips of the same era, but be careful not to overload the hair.

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Care and Maintenance for Longevity

Celluloid is a delicate material. It is flammable, so never expose the clip to direct heat or open flames. Store it away from radiators and sunlight. Prolonged UV exposure will cause the amber colour to fade and become brittle. The best storage is in a soft cloth pouch or a compartmentalised jewellery box, away from other metal accessories that might scratch the plastic.

Cleaning should be minimal. Use a dry, lint-free cloth to wipe the surface after each wear. If the clip feels sticky (a sign of celluoid degradation), dab it very gently with a cotton swab dipped in a tiny amount of isopropyl alcohol — test on an inconspicuous area first. Never submerge the clip in water, as the metal hinge can rust and the plastic can warp. For the gold overlay, a soft polishing cloth designed for plated jewellery will restore its lustre without damaging the metal.

Where to Look for a p536 Elena

Because the Elena was a modestly priced production piece, it turns up in unexpected places. Charity shops in the UK are the best hunting ground, especially those in smaller towns where vintage accessories are still priced at a few pounds. Car boot sales and vintage fairs also yield them, often mixed in with other plastic clips. Online marketplaces like eBay and Vinted are reliable, but expect prices to range from £5 to £15 depending on condition. The most desirable examples have the original spring tension intact and a clear gold overlay with no peeling.

When examining a listing, ask for a photo of the underside stamp. A clear "p536" confirms the model. Also check the hinge for any rust spots. A small amount of tarnish on the metal can be polished off, but deep rust will weaken the clip. The celluloid should be free of cracks — once cracked, the clip cannot be repaired and will eventually break.

For a different approach to vintage hair accessories, the Store P24 Gucci Marmont Hair Clip: A Vintage British Rarity offers a branded alternative from the same period, though it follows a very different design philosophy.

Common Misconceptions About the Elena

Some sellers mistakenly describe the Elena as real tortoiseshell. It is not; the material is almost certainly celluloid or a similar early plastic. Real tortoiseshell was banned in the UK in the 1940s, and the Elena was produced in the late 1950s. The honey-amber colour is a deliberate imitation. Another misconception is that the gold overlay is solid gold or gold-filled. It is gold-plated brass, which is why the finish can wear off over decades of use. Neither of these facts diminishes the clip’s value — it is a well-made example of mid-century costume jewellery, prized for its design and craftsmanship, not its raw materials.

Finally, do not confuse the Elena with the later "Elena" clips from the 1970s, which were larger and made of acrylic. The p536 specifically refers to the celluloid version with the leaf overlay. The later repros often have a different hinge and a stamped "Elena" on the back, rather than the number. Knowing this distinction will help you buy the authentic vintage piece.

One last tip: when you find a p536 Elena in good condition, check the spring tension by opening and closing it a few times. A jeweller can tighten a weak spring, and the gold overlay can be re-plated, but the celluloid must stay as it is. A well-maintained Elena will last another fifty years in a rotation of clips. It is a small, quiet treasure — the kind of accessory that does not announce itself, but rewards a closer look.