The p517 Anika Hairclip: A Collector’s Guide to a Mid-Century Masterpiece
The first time I held a p517 Anika hairclip in my palm, I noticed something the photographs never quite capture: the weight. Most mid-century celluloid barrettes feel light, almost hollow, but this one has a solid heft, as if the maker pressed a little more material into the mould. The surface is warm under the fingertips, and the carved floral motif – a single rose with two leaves etched into the top plate – catches the light differently at every angle. It is not a showy piece; it is the kind of accessory that reveals its charm slowly, over years of wear.
Store p517 is a specific variant of the Anika line produced by a small British workshop in the late 1950s. Unlike the simpler tortoiseshell Anika clips (such as the p503 model, which has a smooth, unadorned face), this version features a pressed floral design that required a two-part mould and hand-finishing of the edges. The colour is a deep honey tortoiseshell, almost amber, with subtle streaks of dark brown running through the cellulose acetate. Because the pattern is carved, not painted, it never chips or fades – the design is integral to the material.
Identifying the p517 Anika Hairclip
If you come across a vintage barrette that looks like a possible candidate, there are three defining characteristics to check. First, the clasp mechanism: the p517 uses a spring-loaded metal bar with a ridged grip, stamped with a tiny ‘A’ on the underside. Second, the dimensions: it measures 7.5 cm long and 1.8 cm wide, slightly larger than the standard Anika barrette (which is 6.5 cm). Third, the floral engraving – the rose has five petals, and the leaves are asymmetrical, one pointing left, one right. Reproductions from the 1980s often have a symmetrical leaf pattern, so that asymmetry is a reliable authenticity marker.
The material is cellulose acetate, not celluloid, despite the common misconception. Celluloid was phased out in the UK by the mid-1950s due to its flammability, and most British hair accessory makers switched to cellulose acetate, which is more stable. The p517 clip is from 1958–1962, a transitional period when many workshops still used the term ‘celluloid’ loosely in marketing. A genuine p517 will not smell of camphor when scratched (a telltale sign of real celluloid) – it will have a faint, neutral odour at most.
Materials and Craftsmanship: What Makes the p517 Special
The p517 was produced by a small manufacturer in the Midlands, possibly a subcontractor for the larger Maison Archives brand. The carving was done by pressing a heated metal die into the softened acetate sheet, then trimming the excess by hand. This technique, called ‘hot stamping’, allowed for intricate designs without the cost of full hand-carving. Yet the finishing was meticulous: the edges were rounded with a fine file, and the metal clip was riveted on the reverse side, not glued. Glue joints from that era often fail after decades; the riveted construction of the p517 means it is still functional today.
The colour palette is particularly appealing to collectors. The base is a translucent amber, with darker swirls of brown that imitate the natural patterns of hawksbill turtle shell. Because the material is translucent, the clip looks different when worn against dark hair compared to light hair. On blonde or grey hair, the amber tones glow warmly; on dark brown or black hair, the brown streaks deepen and the clip seems to change colour throughout the day.
Styling the p517 Anika Hairclip with a Modern Wardrobe
British fashion in the 1950s paired barrettes like the p517 with neat, set curls and pillbox hats. Today, the same clip works beautifully with a more relaxed approach. Slide it into a low, loose chignon at the nape of the neck – the carved rose catches the light even from behind. Or use it to secure a side-swept section of a textured bob. The honey tone complements earth tones: camel coats, olive jumpers, rust corduroy. It also adds a gentle contrast to navy or black, where the amber hue becomes a focal point.
For evening wear, the p517 is surprisingly versatile. Pair it with a silk slip dress and a velvet blazer – the vintage character of the clip adds a thoughtful, curated touch without screaming ‘costume’. If you own the Store p175 Red Ivy Hair Barrette, you can layer the two clips on opposite sides of a half-up style for a playful colour contrast. The red ivy barrette’s glossy finish and the p517’s matte translucency create a pleasing textural dialogue.
Bereavement of the Clasp: Common Issues and Repairs
Because the p517 is over sixty years old, the metal spring inside the clip can lose tension. A loose clip is frustrating but fixable. Open the barrette fully and look at the hinge pin – it is a thin brass rod. If the spring is slack, you can gently squeeze the two sides of the metal clip together with flat-nosed pliers, just a millimetre or two. Test the tension on a strand of hair before tightening further. If the spring has snapped, a jewellery repair shop can replace it with a similar spring from a modern barrette – the dimensions are standard enough.
Another common issue is the build-up of hairspray and oils in the carved crevices. Over time, the floral engraving can become dull. Clean the clip with a soft toothbrush dipped in lukewarm water and a drop of mild dish soap. Brush gently along the grooves, then rinse under running water. Pat dry with a microfiber cloth and leave it to air-dry flat for 24 hours. Do not use alcohol or acetone, as they can cloud cellulose acetate.
Where the p517 Sits in the Anika Family
The Anika line includes several numbered variants, each with a different decorative treatment. The p519 Anika, for example, is a smooth, rounded clip with a single gold-toned line – a minimalist design from the same era. The p503 is a plain tortoiseshell barrette with no embellishment, ideal for everyday wear. The p517 is the most ornate of the three, and therefore the rarest. It appears in auction listings about once every eighteen months, usually in the UK or Europe. Prices range from £18 to £45 depending on condition, with mint examples (no scratches, tight spring, clear colour) fetching the higher end.
If you are hunting for one, search for terms like ‘carved tortoiseshell hair slide’, ‘floral barrette 1950s’, or ‘vintage amber hair clip’. Be aware that many sellers mislabel the material as ‘plastic’ or ‘vintage resin’ – cellulose acetate is a type of plastic, but the quality is far superior to modern injection-moulded clips. The p517 was made before the era of fast fashion, and its construction reflects that slower, more careful approach.
Preserving the p517 for Future Generations
Storage matters. Cellulose acetate is sensitive to UV light and heat. Never leave the p517 in direct sunlight on a windowsill or in a car glovebox. The amber colour can fade to a pale yellow, and the material can become brittle. Store it in a soft cloth pouch or a small box lined with acid-free tissue. Avoid keeping it in the same compartment as metal hairpins or sharp objects – the carved surface can scratch easily.
If you inherit a p517 that has become cloudy, there is a gentle restoration method. Rub a tiny amount of mineral oil (baby oil works) onto the surface with your fingertip, then wipe off the excess after an hour. The oil fills micro-scratches and restores some translucency. Do this once a year at most, as over-oiling can attract dust into the carved grooves.
Why the p517 Matters Today
In a world of mass-produced hair accessories that break after a season, the p517 Anika hairclip offers an alternative: a well-made object that has already lasted sixty years and can easily last sixty more. It is not about nostalgia for a bygone era – it is about respecting the materials and the hands that shaped them. When you wear a p517, you are carrying a small piece of British mid-century design, a rose carved in amber that still holds the memory of the workshop bench where it was finished.
Next time you come across a vintage fair or an online listing, take a close look at the floral engraving. If the leaves are asymmetrical and the spring bears a tiny ‘A’, you have found a p517. And if you decide to buy it, spend an evening cleaning it gently, polishing it with a drop of oil, and testing the tension. Then put it in your hair, step outside, and let the light do the rest.