The Store p497 Anika Hairclip: A Mid-Century Tortoiseshell Treasure

When you hold the Store p497 Anika Hairclip in your palm, the first thing you notice is the hinge. Unlike many mid-century barrettes that rely on a simple spring mechanism, the Anika uses a small, hand-fitted brass pin that slots into a recessed channel. This detail, almost invisible when the clip is worn, is a hallmark of quality from a short-lived London workshop that operated near Hatton Garden between 1953 and 1962. The clip’s name—p497—is the factory pattern number, stamped in tiny numerals on the inside of the lower jaw. For collectors, that stamp is the difference between a generic tortoiseshell clip and a documented piece of British dress history.

The Anika is not a loud accessory. Its beauty lies in restraint: a gently curved top plate with a subtle scalloped edge, tapering to a rounded point. The tortoiseshell acetate (real celluloid, not modern plastic) has mellowed to a warm, translucent amber with darker mottled streaks that resemble the shell of a hawksbill turtle. Because genuine tortoiseshell was banned from international trade in the 1970s, the p497 Anika belongs to a finite era—every surviving example is a snapshot of the last years when British milliners could still legally use that material. This scarcity, combined with the clip’s understated elegance, has made it a quiet favourite among vintage hair-accessory hunters.

Identifying a Genuine Store p497 Anika

Knowing what to look for saves you from mistaking a later resin copy for the real thing. The original p497 has three tell-tale features that are difficult to replicate:

• Stamped pattern number – The numerals “p497” are pressed into the inner face of the lower jaw, close to the hinge. The font is small, slightly uneven, and lacks a serif. Many reproductions either omit the number or use a laser-etched font that looks too clean.
• Celluloid grain – When held up to a strong light, genuine tortoiseshell celluloid shows subtle, irregular colour striations that flow like smoke. Molded resin, by contrast, has a uniform, almost honey-like transparency with no internal movement.
• Hinge pin flushness – On the Anika, the brass hinge pin sits exactly level with the surrounding metal sleeve. If you run your fingernail across it, there is no bump. Later repair jobs often use a replacement pin that protrudes slightly, which is a sign the clip has been tampered with.

These criteria are shared with other mid-century clips from the same workshop. For instance, the Lola Pearl Hoop—another piece from the Maison Archives—carries a similar hinge philosophy, though its design is entirely different. If you are familiar with that clip’s construction, the Anika will feel instantly trustworthy.

Materials and Craftsmanship

The p497 Anika is a layered object. The top plate is cut from a single sheet of tortoiseshell celluloid, then heated and pressed over a wooden former to create the gentle curve that follows the shape of the head. The lower jaw—the part that grips the hair—is made of the same material, but thinner, so it can flex without breaking. The hinge itself is a brass barrel with a steel spring inside. The spring applies the clamping pressure, and on well-preserved examples it still snaps shut with a decisive click.

Because celluloid is a semi-synthetic material derived from camphor and cellulose nitrate, it requires different care from modern plastics. It is flammable (though you would never wear it near an open flame), and it can develop a fine, cloudy film called “celluloid rot” if stored in damp conditions. The p497 Anika’s original packaging—a small grey cardboard box lined with tissue—was designed to keep the clip dry and away from direct sunlight. If you buy an Anika today, store it in a similar environment: a cool, dark drawer, away from radiators and bathroom steam.

How to Style the p497 Anika with a Contemporary Wardrobe

The beauty of this clip is its neutrality. Because the colour is a warm amber, it works with almost every hair shade—from platinum to jet black—without clashing. The scalloped edge provides just enough visual interest to feel deliberate, yet the overall silhouette is simple enough to blend into a minimalist outfit.

The simplest way to wear the Anika today is as a single statement piece at the nape of the neck, holding a low ponytail or a French twist. Because the clip is long (about 7.5 cm), it distributes the weight of the hair evenly, so it stays secure even in thick manes. For a more playful look, try it as a side-swept accent: gather a small section of hair above the ear and clip it diagonally towards the back of the head. The tortoiseshell catches the light differently from every angle, which adds movement without effort.

If you prefer a layered, vintage-inspired aesthetic, pair the Anika with a velvet headband. The combination of sleek shell and plush fabric creates a textural contrast that feels both rich and restrained. The Velvet Braided Crown Headband, for example, shares the same mid-century lineage and sits comfortably alongside the Anika without competing for attention.

Care and Maintenance: Keeping the Clip in Prime Condition

Because the p497 Anika uses a spring hinge, the most common point of failure is the spring itself. Over decades, the steel can lose its temper, becoming either too weak to grip or too brittle to move. To prolong the life of your clip, follow these care steps:

• Open the clip slowly. Yawning it wide in a single motion strains the spring. Instead, press down gently on the back of the top plate and let the jaw open naturally.
• Never leave it in hair overnight. The combination of body heat and pressure can cause the celluloid to warp slightly, and the spring stays compressed, which accelerates fatigue.
• Clean with a dry, soft cloth. If the clip needs a deeper clean, use a barely damp cotton bud to wipe the hinge area, then immediately dry it with a second bud. Moisture is the enemy of the brass pin.
• Store the clip open. Place it on a padded surface with the jaws slightly apart (a small piece of felt between the teeth works well). This keeps the spring in its relaxed state and prevents the metal from developing a permanent set.

If your Anika does lose its snap, do not attempt to pry the hinge apart yourself. The brass pin is easily bent, and once bent, it will never sit flush again. Instead, take it to a jeweller who specialises in vintage costume accessories. They can replace the spring without damaging the celluloid shell—a service that typically costs around £15–£25 and adds decades to the clip’s life.

Where the p497 Fits in the Wider British Hair-Clip Story

The Anika was produced during a golden decade for British hair accessories. The early 1950s saw a post-war hunger for small luxuries, and workshops that had previously manufactured military buckles turned their skills to decorative hair clips. The p497 Anika is a direct contemporary of other iconic pieces, such as the p236 Kitty K Clip—a playful, animal-inspired design from the same period—and the more formal tortoiseshell slides that were sold in department stores like Selfridges and Liberty. What sets the Anika apart is its anonymity: it was never advertised in glossy magazines, never featured in a fashion plate. It was a quiet, reliable object, bought by women who valued function as much as style. That unassuming quality is precisely what makes it so wearable today.

The clip’s pattern number also hints at the scale of the original production run. “p497” suggests it was the 497th pattern registered by that workshop—a small number compared to the thousands of patterns logged by larger firms. This implies a limited output, which explains why finding an Anika in excellent condition requires patience. When you do find one, check the hinge first, then the stamp, and finally the surface for any crazing—a fine network of tiny cracks that signals the onset of celluloid deterioration. A clip with no crazing and a strong snap is a treasure that will serve you for years.

One final practical note: when you first receive a vintage Anika, give the metal parts a very light wipe with a cotton pad dipped in isopropyl alcohol (70% or less). This removes any residual grease from previous handling without harming the celluloid. Then let it air-dry for an hour before wearing. That small step—nothing more—will keep the hinge moving smoothly and prevent any stiffness that might otherwise develop after decades of storage.