The p451 Coneflower Hairclip: A Vintage British Enamel Barrette from the 1960s

The p451 Coneflower Hairclip is a rare accessory that manages to feel both botanically precise and whimsically decorative. Named after the daisy-like petals and prominent central cone of the Echinacea flower, this clip appeared in British accessory catalogues during the late 1960s and early 1970s, a period when floral motifs were enjoying a powerful revival in fashion. Unlike the abstracted daisies of the mid‑sixties, the coneflower design was rendered with a careful eye for natural form – layered petals in graduated shades of pink, purple or white, with a textured gold‑tone or silver‑tone centre that mimicked the seed head. The result is a clip that works equally well as a subtle nod to nature and as a statement piece against a sleek updo.

Design and Materials

The p451 was produced by several small British manufacturers, most notably the now‑defunct House of Mayfair and a Birmingham‑based workshop that specialised in enamel‑on‑metal techniques. The clip itself is a spring‑loaded barrette, approximately 6 cm in length, with a sturdy metal core. The coneflower motif is created using a combination of cold enamel (often called ‘hard enamel’ in vintage circles) and hand‑painted details. The petals are individually shaped and set into a brass base, then fired to achieve a glossy, durable finish. The central cone is usually a separate metal piece, either textured with a crosshatch pattern or set with a tiny cabochon of amber or clear resin to catch the light.

Colourways vary, but the most common are a rose‑pink gradient (petals moving from pale blush at the tips to deep magenta at the base) and a lavender‑to‑white version that feels particularly English. A rarer yellow‑and‑cream variant exists, though collectors debate whether it was a limited run or a prototype. The reverse of the clip is stamped with ‘p451’ and often a tiny maker’s mark – a crown or a stylised ‘M’ – which helps date the piece to the late‑1960s.

The Coneflower in British Fashion History

To understand why the coneflower motif resonated, we need to look at the broader cultural shift of the late‑1960s. The earlier part of the decade had been dominated by geometric Op Art and Pop Art patterns – think Mary Quant’s bold colour blocks and Paco Rabanne’s metallic discs. By 1967, however, the ‘flower power’ movement had crossed the Atlantic and found a particularly British expression in the work of designers like Ossie Clark and Biba. Flowers became softer, more romantic, yet still graphic enough to read at a distance. The coneflower, with its strong silhouette and concentric form, was a perfect bridge between the graphic and the natural.

It also appeared in other accessories of the period – scarf prints, brooches, even buttons – but the p451 hairclip is notable for its sculptural quality. When worn in a simple chignon or a side‑swept bob, the clip creates a three‑dimensional flower that seems to bloom from the hair. This effect was particularly popular among young women in London’s Chelsea and Kensington, who paired it with velvet headbands and floral‑print dresses. For a deeper look at a related mid‑century British barrette, you might enjoy our article on The Store p176 Ivy Barrette: A Blue Vintage Hair Clip from Mid-Century Britain, which shares a similar enamel‑on‑metal construction and floral inspiration.

Identifying an Authentic p451

Because the p451 was made by multiple small manufacturers, there is some variation in quality and detail. Here are the key markers to look for when you find one at a flea market or online auction:

• Weight: Genuine clips have a satisfying heft – the brass base is substantial, not flimsy. If it feels hollow or plasticky, it is likely a later reproduction.
• Enamel finish: The surface should be smooth and glossy, with no bubbles or uneven edges. The colours are translucent – you can see the metal texture underneath, which gives depth.
• Petals: Each petal is separate and slightly raised. Run your fingernail gently across – you should feel the ridges between petals. Cheap modern versions often mould the whole flower in one piece.
• Stamp: Look for ‘p451’ on the underside, usually near the hinge. Some clips also have a small ‘Made in England’ engraving. The absence of a stamp does not automatically mean it is fake, but it is a good indicator.
• Spring mechanism: The clip should open and close smoothly, with a firm grip. The spring is often steel, which may show minor surface rust – this is normal for vintage and can be cleaned gently with a dry cloth.

How to Style the Coneflower Clip Today

The beauty of a well‑made vintage clip is that it does not shout ‘costume’ – it simply adds a deliberate, artistic touch. Here are three ways to incorporate the p451 into a contemporary wardrobe:

1. Low bun with a velvet ribbon: Gather your hair into a low, loose bun at the nape of the neck. Tie a narrow velvet ribbon (black or burgundy works well) around the base, then clip the coneflower just above the ribbon. The contrast of matte velvet and glossy enamel is striking.
2. Side‑parted waves: For a 1970s‑inspired look, part your hair deeply to one side and create soft waves with a curling iron. Slide the clip into the hair just above the ear, angled slightly backward. Let the flower sit against the curve of the wave.
3. Modern minimalist: If your style is more clean‑cut, wear the p451 as the only accessory in a sleek ponytail. Place it at the base of the ponytail holder – the flower will break the line of the hair without overwhelming it.

Care and Preservation

Vintage enamel is durable but not indestructible. To keep your p451 in good condition, follow these practical tips:

• Clean gently: Use a soft, lint‑free cloth slightly dampened with water. Never soak the clip or use chemical cleaners – they can dull the enamel and weaken the spring.
• Store away from sunlight: Prolonged UV exposure can fade the delicate pink and lavender tones. Keep the clip in a fabric‑lined jewellery box or a drawer, ideally wrapped in acid‑free tissue paper.
• Avoid hairspray contact: If you use hairspray or styling products, apply them before putting in the clip. The alcohol in sprays can cloud the enamel over time.
• Check the spring periodically: If the clip becomes loose, a jeweller can often tighten the hinge. Do not attempt to bend the metal yourself – the brass can snap.

Where to Find the p451 Today

Because production was relatively small, the p451 does not turn up at every vintage fair. Your best bet is to search online marketplaces using terms like “vintage enamel flower hairclip England”, “1960s coneflower barrette”, or simply “p451 hairclip”. Charity shops in affluent areas of London and the Home Counties sometimes yield surprises – the clip was a popular gift item, and many were tucked away in dressing‑table drawers and forgotten. Prices typically range from £15 to £45 depending on condition and colour rarity. The yellow variant can fetch upwards of £60 among serious collectors.

Once you have your p451, check the underside carefully – some clips have a tiny engraved date code or a ‘Made in England’ stamp that can help pinpoint the year. Sharing photos of your find on vintage collector forums often leads to fascinating stories about the original owner or the workshop where it was made. That connection to a past life is what makes these clips so rewarding to hunt for.