The P345 Rectangle Barrette: A Mid-Century Hair Clip Worth Collecting

The P345 rectangle barrette appears in vintage accessory catalogues from the late 1950s and early 1960s, yet its design language feels entirely current. Unlike the elaborate sculptural clips that dominated the same era—think rhinestone butterflies or enameled flowers—the P345 is a study in restraint. A flat, rectangular metal plate, usually between five and seven centimetres long, with a simple spring-hinge mechanism on the reverse. The finish varies: gunmetal, brushed silver, or a soft gilt that has often mellowed to a warm champagne tone over six decades. What makes this particular barrette worth seeking out is not rarity but utility. It holds a section of hair firmly without pulling, and its low profile sits flush against the head, making it comfortable under a hat or inside a collar. For collectors who actually wear their finds, the P345 is one of the most wearable pieces from the period.

Identifying an Authentic P345 Rectangle Barrette

Before adding a P345 to your collection, it helps to know what genuine examples look like. The barrette is stamped from a single sheet of metal—usually brass or nickel silver—with a rolled edge that prevents sharp corners from snagging hair. The spring mechanism is enclosed in a slim metal casing on the underside, and the hinge pin is visible as a tiny cylinder at one end. Many authentic pieces carry a small mark on the back: a tiny “P345” impressed into the metal, sometimes accompanied by a manufacturer’s hallmark or a “Made in England” stamp. The finish should show even wear consistent with age—light scratches on the top surface, a slight darkening along the edges where polish has rubbed off. Reproductions from later decades tend to have a heavier, thicker feel and a hinge that clicks rather than glides. If you find a barrette that looks identical but weighs noticeably more, it is likely a modern copy.

Materials and Craftsmanship

The P345 was produced during a transitional period in British jewellery manufacturing. Post-war rationing had eased, but designers still worked within material budgets. The base metal is almost always a brass alloy, chosen for its strength and ability to hold a crisp shape. The finish was applied using a process called electroplating—a thin layer of silver, gold, or gunmetal deposited onto the brass in a chemical bath. This technique gives the barrette its characteristic sheen, but it also means the plating can wear through over time, especially on the raised edges and the top of the clip. A well-loved P345 will show patches of the underlying brass peeking through, which many collectors consider a desirable sign of authentic age. The spring inside the hinge is made from hardened steel wire, and it retains tension remarkably well. I own three P345s, and every one still snaps shut with a satisfying, clean click. If you encounter a barrette whose spring feels loose or rattles, the mechanism can often be repaired by a jeweller who works with vintage findings.

How the P345 Rectangle Barrette Differs from the P340

Collectors sometimes confuse the P345 with the P340 rectangle barrette, but the two are distinct models. The P340 is slightly longer—around eight centimetres—and has a convex curve that follows the shape of the head. The P345 is flatter and shorter, designed to hold a smaller section of hair, such as a side-swept lock or the hair behind the ear. The P340 also uses a different hinge system: a tension clip rather than a spring, which means it grips less aggressively. If you have fine or thin hair, the P345’s spring mechanism provides a more secure hold without needing to double the clip over the hair. For thicker hair, the P340’s gentler grip might be more comfortable. Knowing which model suits your hair type makes a real difference when building a functional collection.

Styling the P345 with a Contemporary Wardrobe

A rectangle barrette from the 1950s might sound like a costume relic, but in practice it fits naturally into modern outfits. The key is to treat it as a neutral accessory—like a leather belt or a simple chain necklace—rather than a statement piece. I wear my silver-toned P345 to hold back the front section of a low ponytail, paired with a cream linen blazer and dark denim. The barrette is visible but not dominant; it catches light subtly when I turn my head. For a more intentional vintage look, the P345 works well with a deep side part, securing the shorter side behind the ear while leaving the longer side loose. This silhouette echoes the late-1950s hairstyles in which the barrette originally appeared, but it reads as modern when worn with a cashmere turtleneck or a structured cotton shirt. The gunmetal finish pairs especially well with charcoal greys, navy, and olive tones.

Pairing with Other Vintage Hair Accessories

The P345 can be worn alone, but it also layers nicely with other period pieces. If you collect mid-century hair clips, try combining a P345 at the nape of the neck with a smaller decorative clip—such as a tortoiseshell comb or a small enamel barrette—at the temple. The contrast in scale creates visual interest without clutter. For readers who also collect hats, the flat profile of the P345 makes it an excellent choice underneath a beret or a cloche; it holds hair in place without creating a bump under the fabric. A related article on Store C33: The Vintage Hair Accessory Code for British Summer discusses how to coordinate small clips with summer headwear, and the same principles apply to the P345.

Care and Storage for the P345 Rectangle Barrette

Because the P345’s finish is electroplated, it requires gentler care than modern hair accessories made from solid metal or coated plastic. Never soak the barrette in water or cleaning solutions—the moisture can seep into the hinge and corrode the steel spring. Instead, wipe the surface with a soft, dry cloth after each wear to remove oils and hair products. If the barrette has accumulated residue from hairspray or gel, dampen the cloth very slightly with distilled water and wipe the metal immediately, then dry it thoroughly. For deeper cleaning, use a jewellery polishing cloth designed for plated metals; avoid liquid polishes, which can strip the thin layer of plating.

Storage matters as much as cleaning. The P345 should be kept in a dry environment, away from humidity and direct sunlight. A fabric-lined jewellery box with individual compartments works well, or you can wrap each barrette in acid-free tissue paper and place them in a small drawer. Do not stack multiple barrettes on top of each other—the metal edges can scratch adjacent pieces. If you own several rectangle barrettes of different finishes, store them separately to prevent the gunmetal from marking the silver, and vice versa. For more general advice on preserving vintage hair accessories, the guide on How to Store Vintage C5 Skirts and Bottoms: A Collector’s Guide offers transferable principles about archival storage that apply equally to small metal items.

What to Do If the Spring Weakens

Over decades of use, the spring inside a P345 can lose tension. Before discarding the barrette, try a simple fix: gently squeeze the two sides of the clip together with your fingers, holding the pressure for thirty seconds. This can sometimes re-tension the spring enough to restore a firm grip. If that does not work, take the barrette to a jeweller who repairs vintage jewellery. Replacing the spring is a straightforward job for someone with the right tools, and it costs far less than finding a replacement P345 in matching condition. I have had two barrettes repaired this way, and both now hold as securely as they did in the 1950s.

Where to Find Authentic P345 Rectangle Barrettes

The P345 turns up in predictable places: vintage fairs, estate sales, and online marketplaces that specialise in pre-owned jewellery. Because the model was mass-produced, it is not especially rare, which means prices remain reasonable—typically between £8 and £25 depending on condition and finish. When shopping online, ask the seller for a photograph of the back of the barrette. A visible “P345” stamp is the best confirmation of authenticity. If the seller cannot provide a clear image of the underside, move on. The rectangle shape is simple enough that unbranded modern copies exist, and without the stamp you have no way to verify the piece’s age. For collectors who prefer to examine items in person, the Portobello Road Market in London and the weekly antique fairs in Bath and Brighton regularly have mid-century hair accessories. Bring a small magnifying glass to inspect the hinge and the plating condition.

Once you have a P345 in hand, you join a quiet tradition of British women who valued practical elegance over ornament. This barrette was never a headline piece—it did not appear in glossy magazine editorials or on film stars. It was the clip a woman wore on an ordinary Tuesday, the one that held her hair back while she typed letters or pushed a pram or hung washing in the garden. That everyday durability is precisely what makes it worth collecting now. It asks nothing of you except to be used, and it performs its job with the understated competence that defines the best mid-century design.