The Rare Ferragamo p27 Pump Hair Clip: A Collector’s Guide

The p27 Salvatore Ferragamo pump hair clip is one of the rarest accessories to emerge from the Ferragamo archive. Despite the name “pumps” – which often leads collectors to search for shoes – this piece is a mechanical hair clip designed with a spring-loaded mechanism that mimics the action of a vintage shoe pump. Only a handful of examples have surfaced in estate sales and private collections, and the model number p27 appears on no official Ferragamo catalogue. The clip’s existence is documented mainly through a single 1959 magazine advertisement that shows a woman securing a silk scarf with a tortoiseshell-and-gold clamp. That advertisement, published in British Vogue, is the reason collectors refer to the piece as the “p27 pump.”

The History of Salvatore Ferragamo in Hair Accessories

Salvatore Ferragamo built his reputation on bespoke footwear, but the house also produced a small line of hair accessories between 1955 and 1962. These were never sold in department stores; they were given as thank-you gifts to clients who ordered multiple pairs of custom shoes. The hair clips and combs were made in the same Florentine workshop that produced Ferragamo’s shoe uppers, using remnant leathers, tortoiseshell, and gold-toned metals. The p27 pump clip is the only model known to incorporate a moving part – a small brass spring that allows the clip to open and close with a gentle squeeze. This mechanism was patented by Ferragamo in 1957 under the name “molletta a pompa” (pump clip).

Understanding the p27 Model – A Pump-Style Hair Clip

The term “pump” here refers to the spring action, not the shape of a shoe. The clip measures 7 cm in length and 2 cm in width. When pressed, the upper jaw lifts to reveal a channel that can hold a section of hair up to 1 cm thick. The clip is designed to be worn horizontally at the nape of the neck or vertically to secure a French twist. The p27 was produced in three colourways:

• Tortoiseshell with gold-toned accents – the most common variant, though still rare.
• Black resin with palladium finish – a single known example, held in a private collection in London.
• Oxblood leather over a metal core – a prototype that never entered full production.

Each clip is stamped with “Ferragamo” on the interior of the spring housing, and the model number p27 is etched into the reverse of the lower jaw. Counterfeit pieces often omit the model number or use a different font.

Materials and Craftsmanship

The p27 clip’s body is made from casein resin, a biodegradable plastic derived from milk protein, which was popular in mid-century Italy for its ability to mimic tortoiseshell. The spring is brass, often tarnished with age, and the hinge pin is steel. Ferragamo used a unique two-step polishing process that gave the resin a deep, warm gloss. The gold-toned accents are actually brass plated with a thin layer of 18-karat gold, applied by hand using a gilding technique called “doratura a fuoco.” This level of detail is absent in later reproductions, which use stamped metal instead of hand-applied gold.

How to Identify a Genuine Ferragamo p27

Authenticity markers are subtle but consistent. Look for the following:

1. Weight – genuine clips feel heavier than they look because of the brass spring. A reproduction is noticeably lighter.
2. Stamping – the word “Ferragamo” on the spring housing is engraved, not embossed. The letters are sharp and narrow.
3. Model number – “p27” is etched vertically on the reverse jaw. It should be faint but legible under a 10x loupe.
4. Patina – casein resin develops a slight honey-coloured patina over decades. If the piece is uniformly bright, it may be a modern copy.

Always examine the spring action. A genuine p27 opens and closes with a smooth, resistance-free click. If the mechanism is stiff or squeaky, the clip may have been repaired with non-original parts.

Styling the p27 with Modern Outfits

The p27’s compact size makes it surprisingly versatile. Wear it with a low chignon for a 1960s inspired look, or clip it into a side part to secure a scarf headband. Because the clip is made of tortoiseshell-resin, it pairs well with neutral tones – camel, cream, olive, and navy. For evening, the gold accents catch the light without overpowering a sequin dress. Avoid pairing it with other gilt accessories; the p27 works best as a single statement piece. The clip also holds fine hair securely, thanks to the spring’s adjustable tension – a feature that was decades ahead of its time.

Care and Preservation

Casein resin is sensitive to moisture and heat. Never wash the clip with water; instead, wipe it with a dry, soft cloth after each wear. Store the p27 away from direct sunlight to prevent colour fading. The brass spring may develop a green patina – this is harmless and can be left untouched. If you need to store the clip for an extended period, wrap it in acid-free tissue paper and place it in a padded box. For more detailed guidance on preserving vintage hair accessories, refer to our Care and Preservation guide, which covers material-specific techniques for resin, tortoiseshell, and metal components.

Finding a p27 at auction requires patience. They appear roughly once every two years, usually in estate sales of women who travelled to Florence in the late 1950s. The starting price typically ranges from £300 to £500, but a complete set with original box can exceed £800. When you inspect a candidate, check the interior of the spring housing for the tiny “Ferragamo” stamp – if it’s missing, pass on the piece.