The Anoushka Enamel Hair Clip: A Collector’s Guide to the Maison Archives p239

The Maison Archives catalogue number p239 belongs to a piece that rarely surfaces in the open market: the Anoushka enamel hair clip. Named after the Hindi word for “unique” or “incomparable”, the Anoushka clip is not a mass‑produced trinket but a limited‑run accessory that blends mid‑century silhouette with a distinctly British love for colourful enamel work. If you have ever held one, you know the immediate tactile surprise – the enamel is cool and smooth, the metal base has a reassuring weight, and the spring mechanism clicks with the precision of a well‑made brooch.

What Makes the Anoushka Enamel Clip Distinctive

At first glance the Anoushka clip resembles other mid‑century barrettes, but its proportions are unusual. The clip measures roughly 7 cm in length and 1.5 cm in width, with a gently curved top plate that rises into a shallow dome. The enamel work is not a flat wash; it is applied in layers, creating a subtle depth that catches light differently from every angle. Most surviving examples feature a deep sapphire blue or a rich emerald green base, overlaid with a hand‑painted floral motif in cream, coral, and gold tones. The reverse side is stamped with the Maison Archives hallmark and the number 239, sometimes accompanied by a tiny ‘A’ for Anoushka.

Collectors prize the Anoushka for its condition – many clips from the 1950s and 1960s show chipped enamel or tarnished metal, but the p239 series was stored in fabric‑lined boxes inside the Maison Archives vault, so examples emerge with near‑mint enamel. The gold‑tone metal rim is typically unmarked, but closer inspection reveals a tiny ‘Made in England’ stamp on the inner hinge.

Enamel Techniques Behind the Anoushka Clip

British enamel hair accessories of the post‑war period fall into two broad categories: cloisonné and champlevé. The Anoushka clip uses a technique closer to painted enamel, where the design is painted directly onto the metal base and then fired multiple times. Each colour requires a separate firing at around 800°C, and the artisan must work quickly before the enamel paste dries. The result is a palette that cannot be replicated by modern digital printing – the colours have a vitreous glow, almost like stained glass in miniature.

The artisan who created the Anoushka series is believed to have trained at the Birmingham School of Jewellery and Silversmithing, which maintained a strong enamel programme until the 1970s. The clip’s floral motif is not a generic rose; it is a stylised depiction of the British bluebell, a nod to the wildflower that carpets ancient woodlands every spring. This attention to botanical accuracy is a hallmark of the finest British enamel accessories.

How to Identify an Authentic Anoushka Clip

Because the Anoushka clip is desirable, reproductions have appeared in recent years. Here are the key markers:

• Weight – Authentic clips use a brass or copper base, giving them a weight of 12–14 grams. Modern fakes are lighter (under 8 grams) because they use aluminium.
• Hallmark – Look for the Maison Archives stamp. It is a small oval with the letters ‘M.A.’ inside, followed by ‘239’. Reproduction stamps are often larger or placed off‑centre.
• Enamel surface – Genuine enamel is slightly uneven when you run a fingernail over it; the surface has tiny waves from the firing process. Fake enamel is perfectly smooth and glossy like plastic.
• Spring tension – The clip should open with a firm, even resistance. Loose or squeaky springs indicate a replacement or a lower‑quality copy.

If you are buying from a vintage fair or online marketplace, request a photograph of the underside. The absence of a hallmark is the easiest way to spot a reproduction.

Styling the Anoushka Enamel Clip Today

The Anoushka clip was designed for medium to thick hair. Its spring holds securely without pulling, making it suitable for a low chignon, a side‑swept French twist, or simply as a decorative accent on a half‑up style. Because the enamel is vivid, it works best against neutral or muted fabrics – a cream linen blouse, a charcoal wool blazer, or a navy cashmere jumper. The clip’s botanical motif also pairs beautifully with natural textures like straw and leather.

For readers who enjoy mixing vintage accessories with modern wardrobes, the Anoushka clip is a natural companion to tailored separates. A structured blazer, for instance, echoes the clip’s mid‑century origins. Our Wool Blazers and Vintage Hair Accessories: A Complete Styling Guide explores how to balance proportion and colour when adding a statement clip to a contemporary outfit. The same principles apply to the Anoushka: keep the rest of your accessories minimal – small pearl studs, a thin leather belt – and let the clip be the focal point.

Care and Storage for Enamel Hair Clips

Enamel is durable but not indestructible. Sudden temperature changes can cause hairline cracks, and prolonged exposure to hairspray or perfume will dull the gloss. Follow these steps to keep your Anoushka clip in collector‑worthy condition:

1. After each wear, wipe the clip with a soft, dry cloth to remove oils and product residue.
2. Store the clip in a fabric‑lined jewellery box or a padded pouch. Do not let it rattle against metal chains or other clips.
3. Never submerge the clip in water or cleaning solutions. If the enamel needs a deeper clean, use a barely damp cotton bud and dry immediately.
4. Keep the clip away from direct sunlight for long periods – UV radiation can fade the enamel over years.
5. If the spring becomes stiff, apply a micro‑drop of sewing machine oil to the hinge with a toothpick. Wipe away any excess before wearing.

These care routines are standard for any vintage enamel piece, but they are especially important for the Anoushka because the enamel is hand‑painted and the layers are thinner than in cloisonné work. A well‑cared‑for clip can last another fifty years.

Why the Anoushka Clip Deserves a Place in Your Collection

The store p239 Anoushka is not the most famous name in vintage hair accessories – that honour goes to the Ziggy Colors 2 Hair Clips, which are celebrated for their bold, psychedelic patterns. But the Anoushka represents something quieter: the pinnacle of British enamel craftsmanship applied to a everyday object. It is a piece that rewards close looking, that reveals new details with each wear. And because so few examples are in circulation, owning one connects you to a specific moment in the 1950s when a small workshop in Birmingham decided to combine bluebells and vitreous enamel into something as practical as a hair clip.

If you come across a p239 Anoushka at a fair or an estate sale, examine the enamel for any chips or repairs. A clip with intact enamel and a strong spring is worth acquiring even if the gold tone shows some patina – that natural ageing adds character. The simplest way to preserve its value is to wear it occasionally. Hair clips are made to be seen, not locked away. Let the Anoushka clip catch the light, and you will understand why Maison Archives kept it in the vault for so long.