The Store p198 Leaf Hairclip: A Collector’s Guide to a British Vintage Treasure

If you have ever run your fingers through a box of vintage hair clips at a British flea market, you know the quiet thrill of spotting a Store p198 leaf hairclip. The code is stamped on the back of a small metal barrette shaped like an oak or ivy leaf, often with delicate vein lines picked out in dark enamel or gilding. Unlike the flashier diamante pieces that dominate collectors’ tables, the p198 speaks in a softer, more botanical language – one that connects directly to the Arts and Crafts tradition and the mid-century love of natural forms.

Look closely at what that code actually tells you. The “Store” prefix is widely believed to refer to a British wholesale or retail house that commissioned accessories from small manufacturers in Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter and the costume-jewellery workshops of London. The number “198” is a stock or design reference, not a date – but by cross-referencing with known catalogues, most examples appear to date from the 1950s to early 1960s. The leaf shape itself is typically cast in brass or a similar base metal, then plated with either silver or gold tone. Some variants carry a soft green or brown enamel fill in the recessed veins, while others rely on the contrast of polished and matte metal.

The Language of Leaves in British Hair Accessories

The leaf motif is far from arbitrary. In the post-war period, British women sought accessories that felt both modern and rooted in the countryside. A leaf barrette could evoke the English hedgerow, the formal gardens of stately homes, or the simple elegance of a walk in the woods. Designers drew inspiration from botanical illustrations, William Morris patterns, and even the leaves on the uniforms of the Women’s Land Army. The p198 leaf clip, with its clean silhouette and restrained decoration, fits perfectly into this tradition.

Compared to the exuberant floral clips of the 1940s or the abstract shapes of the 1970s, the p198 is notably understated. It is a piece that does not shout – it nods. That restraint makes it extraordinarily versatile. You can slide it into a low chignon for a wedding, clip it onto a side-swept ponytail for a day at the office, or pin it to a felt beret for an autumnal walk. The leaf shape works with both long and short hair, and because the barrette is small (typically 4–5 cm long), it never overwhelms a hairstyle.

Materials and Craftsmanship: What to Look For

Authentic p198 clips were made with care, but not preciousness. The base metal is usually brass or a copper alloy, chosen for its ability to hold fine detail. The plating can vary: some are bright silver plate, others a warm gold wash that has softened to a buttery patina over decades. The enamel, when present, is a vitreous or cold enamel that may show tiny crazing lines – a sign of age that collectors actually prize.

To identify a genuine p198, turn the clip over. The stamping is usually crisp: “STORE” in block capitals above “198” in a slightly smaller font, sometimes with an additional hallmark or maker’s mark. Beware of modern reproductions that use a laser-engraved imitation; the original stamping has a slight hand-punched irregularity. The spring mechanism is a simple metal clasp that opens with a gentle squeeze – not a spring-loaded hinge. If the clip feels too light or the plating is uniformly bright and flawless, it may be a later copy.

Styling the p198 Leaf Clip Today

One of the great pleasures of owning a vintage leaf clip is the ease with which it joins a contemporary wardrobe. Because the p198 is small and neutral in colour (silver, gold, or tortoiseshell), it does not compete with modern fabrics or silhouettes. Here are three ways to wear it:

• With a knit beanie: Pin the leaf clip just above the brim of a wool beanie. The organic shape softens the casual vibe of the hat, especially in autumn tones like rust, moss, or charcoal.
• As a French twist accent: Gather your hair into a low twist and secure it with bobby pins, then slide the leaf clip at the top of the twist, angled slightly outward. The effect is polished but not stiff – ideal for a day meeting or a gallery visit.
• Paired with a silk scarf: Tie a silk square around a low ponytail, then clip the leaf over the knot. The mix of textures – smooth metal, flowing silk, and hair – creates a layered, put-together look that feels effortlessly British.

For those who love to mix eras, the p198 also works beautifully with the bohemian silhouettes of the late 1960s. The leaf clip can be tucked into a side braid alongside a ribbon, echoing the free-spirited style of the Summer of Love – a period we explored in our article on Summer of Love Hair Accessories: Vintage Products That Defined 1967. While that piece focuses on floral headbands and love beads, the p198 leaf clip offers a quieter, more grounded alternative that still carries the same naturalistic impulse.

Care and Conservation

Vintage metal hair clips require a gentle hand. The plating can wear thin, and the enamel may chip if dropped. Here are the essential care steps:

1. Clean sparingly. Use a soft, dry cloth to remove dust. If the clip is greasy from hair products, dampen a cotton bud with a tiny amount of isopropyl alcohol and dab only the metal parts – never soak the clip.
2. Avoid ultrasonic cleaners. They can loosen enamel and damage the spring. Hand-cleaning is always safer.
3. Store separately. Wrap each clip in acid-free tissue paper or keep it in a fabric-lined jewellery box. Metal clips can scratch each other, and the enamel can be abraded by harder stones.
4. Check the spring. Over time, the metal clasp may lose tension. You can gently bend the prongs outward with pliers (wrap the tips in soft cloth) to improve grip, but do this only once – repeated bending weakens the metal.

If you find a p198 with missing enamel, do not be too quick to repaint it. Many collectors prefer the honest wear of a piece that shows its age. A clip with a few tiny enamel gaps still looks charming when pinned into hair, and the patina on the metal tells a story of decades of use.

The p198 in a Collector’s Context

For those building a collection of British vintage hair accessories, the p198 leaf clip is a wonderful entry point. It is relatively affordable (often found for £8–£20 at vintage fairs or online marketplaces), yet it embodies the design sensibility of an era when accessories were made to last. The leaf shape also appears in other “Store” codes – for example, the p167 tortoiseshell barrette (detailed in The Sidney Braided Headband 4: A Collector’s Guide to the Four-Strand Variant is a different piece, but the same maker’s attention to natural forms persists).

What makes the p198 especially satisfying is its versatility across seasons. A silver-toned leaf clip works with the cool light of winter; a gold-toned one catches the warmth of summer sun. And because the leaf is a universal symbol – not tied to a particular decade or subculture – it never feels costumey. It is simply a beautiful, well-made object that happens to be small enough to live in your hair.

The next time you see a leaf-shaped barrette at a car boot sale or a vintage shop, turn it over. If you spot the “STORE 198” stamp, you have found a piece of British design history that is still ready to be worn. Slide it into your hair, and let the leaf rest against your temple – a quiet nod to the hedgerows, the gardens, and the hands that made it half a century ago.