The P188 Disco Diamante Hair Clip: A Collector’s Guide

The Store P188 Disco Diamante Hair Clip is one of those elusive pieces that turns up in charity shops, at car boot sales in the Cotswolds, or tucked inside a forgotten jewellery box inherited from a grandmother who knew how to dance. If you have ever held one in your palm, you already know the weight of it — not heavy, but substantial, with a satisfying snap when the clasp closes. The stones catch even the dimmest light. This article is for the collector who has found one, or is hunting for one, and wants to understand exactly what they have.

What the Code Tells Us

British manufacturers of mid-century hair accessories often used a numbering system that indicated the factory, the season, or the batch. The "P188" code points to a specific production run, likely from the late 1970s or early 1980s, when disco culture was influencing everything from platform shoes to hair clips. The "P" prefix is thought to stand for "Precious" or "Pavé," though no official documentation survives. What matters is that this code helps date the piece and confirms it is not a modern reproduction.

Materials and Construction

The P188 clip is made from a metal base — usually brass or a nickel alloy — that has been electroplated with a silver or gold-toned finish. Over time, the plating may wear on the edges, revealing the warm metal beneath. This is not a flaw; it is a sign of authenticity. The stones are glass rhinestones, cut to mimic diamonds, and set in a prong setting. The quality varies: earlier clips tend to have sharper facets and brighter foil backing, while later examples show slight clouding in the glue.

Key Characteristics to Inspect

• The clasp mechanism: A spring-loaded snap bar that clicks into place. If it feels loose, the clip may need gentle tightening with tweezers — never pliers, as they can crack the stones.
• The stone arrangement: The P188 typically features a central cluster of larger stones surrounded by smaller ones in a starburst or fan pattern. Count the stones if you can; a genuine piece usually has 18 to 24 individual rhinestones.
• The back stamp: Look for the code "P188" engraved on the metal arm, often accompanied by a tiny crown or a maker's mark. No stamp does not necessarily mean fake, but it makes authentication harder.

The Disco Connection

Why "disco" in the name? Because these clips were designed to catch the strobe lights and mirrored balls of the dance floor. The late 1970s saw a surge in glittering accessories across Britain, from Birmingham's jewellery quarter to London's boutique scene. Women wore them to nightclubs like the Hammersmith Palais or the Tiffany's in Coventry, often paired with a silk blouse and wide-leg trousers. The clip held back one side of the hair, leaving the rest loose — a style that felt both practical and glamorous.

For a deeper look at how snowflake motifs evolved in British hair accessories, you might enjoy our guide on Snow Flakes 4: A Guide to Britain’s Vintage Snowflake Hair Clips, which shares a similar glittering aesthetic.

How to Wear the P188 Today

The beauty of the disco diamante clip is that it does not demand a period costume. Here are three ways to incorporate it into a modern wardrobe:

1. With a crisp white shirt: Clip it at the nape of the neck to hold a low ponytail. The sparkle contrasts with the clean lines of the shirt, creating an unexpected focal point.
2. On a messy bun: Use the clip as a decorative accent on a topknot. It works especially well with textured hair, as the teeth grip without slipping.
3. As a brooch alternative: If the clip is too small or the spring is too weak for your hair, pin it to the lapel of a blazer or the collar of a dress. The back clasp is flat enough to double as a brooch fitting.

Care and Storage

Rhinestones are durable, but the foil backing can tarnish if exposed to moisture or perfume. Follow these steps to keep your P188 in excellent condition:

• Store the clip in a soft pouch or a lined jewellery box, away from other metal pieces that could scratch the plating.
• Wipe it with a dry, lint-free cloth after each wear. Never use jewellery cleaning solutions or ultrasonic cleaners — they can loosen the stones.
• Avoid getting hairspray or dry shampoo on the clip. If you do, gently dab with a slightly damp cloth and dry immediately.
• Check the spring mechanism once a year. If it becomes stiff, apply a tiny drop of sewing machine oil to the hinge, then open and close it several times to distribute the oil.

Spotting a Reproduction

As with any desirable vintage piece, reproductions exist. Modern copies often use plastic rhinestones with rounded edges, a lighter weight, and a uniform silver colour that lacks the warmth of aged plating. The back of a reproduction may have a laser-engraved "P188" or no marking at all. The clasp on a genuine clip makes a crisp click; reproductions tend to have a softer, spongier feel. If you are buying online, ask the seller to photograph the clip against a ruler — the P188 measures approximately 6 centimetres in length and 2.5 centimetres at its widest point.

For collectors who enjoy the hunt for rare colours, our article on The Hunt for Premium Cactus Pink: A Collector’s Guide to British Hair Accessories explores another elusive variant that shares the same disco-era DNA.

Pricing and Value

The P188 Disco Diamante Hair Clip typically sells for £15 to £45 in vintage shops, depending on condition and stone clarity. A pristine example with all stones intact and a bright foil backing can command up to £60. Clips with one or two missing stones are still worth buying if the price reflects the repair work needed — a jeweller can replace a stone for around £10, provided they can source a matching rhinestone. Avoid clips with heavy rust on the spring or bent prongs, as these require professional restoration that may exceed the clip's value.

If you find one at a car boot sale for a pound, buy it without hesitation. Even in worn condition, the P188 is a piece of British social history that deserves to be worn again. The disco era may have faded, but the light in these stones has not dimmed. Let them catch the sun one more time.