The Sweet Diamante Barrette: A Vintage Hair Accessory with a Secret Code

If you have ever sifted through a tray of vintage hair accessories at a Portobello Road stall or a country house fair, you may have noticed a small, unassuming card labelled “Store p172” with a delicate diamante barrette pinned to it. That code is not random – it belongs to a specific production run from a mid-century British costume jewellery maker, likely a department store’s own-brand line or a small workshop supplying high-street boutiques. The “sweet” in the name describes the barrette’s shape: a bow or a heart, often no larger than a two-pence coin, paved with tiny paste stones. These pieces were designed to add a whisper of sparkle to a woman’s hair without the weight or ostentation of fine jewellery.

What Exactly Is a Diamante Hair Barrette?

“Diamante” is the French word for diamond, but in the context of vintage accessories it refers to rhinestones – glass or crystal stones cut to imitate diamonds. British manufacturers of the 1950s and 1960s excelled at setting these stones in silver- or gold-toned metal using tiny claw prongs. The result was a brilliant, light-catching effect that could transform a simple hairstyle into something special. The Store p172 barrette is a snap-clip design: a spring-loaded hinge with a metal loop that grips the hair securely. This mechanism, patented in the 1930s and refined in the post-war years, became the standard for decorative hair clips because it was easy to use and gentle on fine or styled hair.

The Materials and Techniques Behind the Sparkle

To appreciate a sweet diamante barrette, it helps to understand how it was made. The base metal is usually brass or a nickel alloy, then plated with either rhodium for a silver finish or a thin layer of gold. The stones themselves are machine-cut glass, often with a foil backing to increase reflectivity. Skilled workers placed each stone by hand into a bed of adhesive, then bent the tiny claws over the stone – a technique called “paste setting.” This labour-intensive process meant that even inexpensive costume pieces had a surprising level of craftsmanship. The Store p172 likely used clear crystals, but some variations include pale pink, blue, or topaz hues. Because the stones are glued rather than heat-set, the barrette is delicate: heat and moisture can loosen the adhesive, so these pieces are best worn for special occasions rather than daily use.

Dating the Store p172: Clues from the Clip

One of the most reliable ways to date a vintage hair barrette is to examine its clip mechanism. The Store p172 uses a “French clip” style – a flat metal spring with a small loop that snaps shut when pressed. This design was ubiquitous from the late 1940s through the 1960s. Earlier clips (1910s–1930s) often had a longer, more delicate spring or were attached to a comb. Later, in the 1970s, manufacturers switched to alligator clips with plastic grips. The presence of a patent number stamped on the back of the barrette can narrow the date further. For example, British patents from the 1950s often begin with “7” or “8”. If you own a Store p172, check the reverse side: you may find a faint number like “873,421” or simply “Made in England”. That small imprint is a direct link to the workshop where it was assembled.

Why the “Sweet” Shape Matters

The word “sweet” in the product name points to a specific silhouette: a small bow or heart. These motifs were enormously popular in British fashion during the 1950s, when the New Look encouraged romantic, feminine details. A bow-shaped barrette echoed the ribbon ties on blouses and the bows on cocktail hats. Heart shapes, meanwhile, were associated with sentimental gifts – a young man might buy a heart barrette for his sweetheart at a fairground or a seaside arcade. The scale was deliberately petite: a large diamante barrette would have looked overpowering on the sculpted, curled hairstyles of the era, whereas a tiny sparkle nestled behind the ear or at the crown added just the right note of glamour.

Styling a Sweet Diamante Barrette with a Modern Wardrobe

Vintage hair accessories can feel intimidating, but a small diamante barrette is one of the easiest pieces to incorporate into contemporary outfits. Because it is subtle, it works equally well with casual and formal looks. Here are three practical ways to wear it:

• With a low chignon or bun: Slide the barrette into the side of a gathered bun, letting the stones catch the light. This works especially well with a silk blouse or a tweed jacket – the sparkle contrasts beautifully with matte textures.
• As a hair accent for a half-up style: Take a small section of hair from each temple, clip them together at the back with the barrette, and leave the rest loose. The diamante will peek through the hair like a hidden treasure.
• On a side part: Comb hair to one side and fasten the barrette just above the ear, securing a few strands that would otherwise fall into your face. This is a favourite trick for adding polish to a simple ponytail or a sleek bob.

Because the barrette is small, you can also layer it with other vintage pieces – for instance, pairing it with a velvet headband or a tortoiseshell comb. Just be careful not to overcrowd the hair; the charm of a sweet diamante barrette lies in its restraint.

Caring for Your Store p172 Barrette

Owning a vintage diamante barrette means becoming a custodian of its delicate parts. The stones are the most vulnerable element. Avoid exposing the barrette to water, hairspray, or perfume, as these can cloud the foil backing or loosen the glue. To clean it, use a soft, dry cloth – never a damp one or any chemical cleaner. If a stone falls out, resist the urge to glue it back with ordinary craft glue; the fumes can damage neighbouring stones. Instead, a tiny dab of jeweller’s epoxy applied with a toothpick works best, but only if you are confident. For valuable pieces, consult a professional restorer who specialises in vintage costume jewellery.

Storage matters too. Keep the barrette in a fabric-lined box or a small pouch, away from other metal pieces that could scratch the plating. Do not leave it in direct sunlight for long periods, as the foil backing can discolour. With these simple precautions, your Store p172 can remain a wearable piece of history for decades to come.

Why the Store p172 Matters to Collectors

Every vintage accessory tells a story, and the Store p172 sweet diamante barrette is no exception. It represents the democratisation of sparkle – a time when British women of all means could afford a little luxury for their hair. The code “p172” hints at a wider system of cataloguing used by manufacturers like S. H. Benson or Corocraft, though many records were lost when factories closed in the 1970s. Collectors seek out these pieces for their beauty and the glimpse they offer into mid-century manufacturing and retail. The next time you spot one at a vintage fair, take a close look at the clip – that faint stamp might be the only surviving record of a forgotten workshop.