Decoding ‘store p124’ on Vintage Fish Bone Earrings: History, Materials, and Styling

That tiny 'store p124' stamp on a pair of vintage fish bone earrings isn't just an inventory number—it's a direct link to a specific British department store or jeweller from the mid-20th century. These earrings, with their carved ridges that mimic a fish spine, were a staple between the 1930s and 1950s, when organic shapes met Art Deco precision. Reading the stamp, identifying the material (bone, casein, or bakelite), and checking the carving quality is what separates a casual collector from a savvy buyer.

The Origins of Fish Bone Earrings in British Fashion

The term 'fish bone' is a misnomer—these earrings rarely contain fish skeleton. Instead, the name describes the visual effect: a series of parallel grooves and ridges that mimic the texture of a fish's spine. British jewellers of the Art Deco era liked this pattern for its blend of geometric repetition and naturalistic form. Real bone (often cow or buffalo) was carved by hand or with simple lathes, then polished to a soft sheen. By the 1940s, wartime shortages pushed makers toward alternatives: casein (a milk protein plastic), celluloid, and later bakelite. Each material demands different care and offers different clues for dating.

Decoding the 'store p124' Label

The 'store' prefix strongly suggests a retail or wholesale code used by a specific British department store or jewellery chain. Liberty, Harrods, and smaller London boutiques often stamped their own numbers on accessories. The 'p124' likely indicates a model number, possibly followed by a price code (the 'p' could stand for 'price' or 'pattern'). While no definitive list of codes exists, the 'p' often stands for 'pattern' in British jewellery numbering. Collectors should examine the stamp's font and depth—genuine vintage stamps are slightly uneven and show wear consistent with the earring's age. Look also for a matching stamp on the clasp or post; many pieces had both earrings marked identically.

Materials: From Natural Bone to Early Plastics

The material tells you a lot about value and how to care for the earrings. To tell them apart, check these characteristics:

• Natural bone: Warm to the touch, visible pores or grain lines, slight flexibility under pressure. It darkens and develops a creamy patina over decades.
• Casein: Made from milk protein, often dyed in ivory, tortoiseshell, or pastel shades. It has a smooth, slightly waxy feel and can smell faintly of milk when rubbed.
• Celluloid: Lightweight, prone to yellowing and camphor odour. It was popular in the 1920s–1940s and often imitated bone grain.
• Bakelite: Heavier, hard, and usually dark brown or green. It polishes to a high gloss and does not react to heat like celluloid.

If you are unsure, a simple hot-pin test (applied discreetly to an inconspicuous area) can differentiate bakelite (no smell) from celluloid (camphor) and casein (burnt milk). But proceed with caution—always test on a hidden spot.

Styling Vintage Fish Bone Earrings Today

Because fish bone earrings are lightweight and often neutral in colour, they adapt easily to modern wardrobes. They work especially well with a sleek low bun or a side part, allowing the sculptural form to catch the eye. For a playful contrast, pair them with a brightly coloured hair accessory—such as the Hot Pink Satin Squared Headband, which echoes the 1950s aesthetic without competing with the earrings. Alternatively, let the earrings be the focal point by keeping other accessories minimal: a simple silk scarf tied around the wrist or a leather belt with a vintage buckle.

Care and Preservation of Fish Bone Earrings

Proper storage prevents damage to both the material and the stamp. Keep each earring in a separate soft pouch or a compartmented box to avoid scratches. Natural bone should be kept away from direct sunlight and extreme humidity; a light application of mineral oil every six months can prevent cracking. Plastic-based earrings (celluloid, bakelite) should never come into contact with alcohol, acetone, or high heat—these can cause discolouration or even melting. Clean them with a barely damp cotton cloth, then dry immediately.

The next time you find a pair with that 'store p124' stamp, take a close look at the grooves—are they deep and even, or shallow and uneven? That tells you more about the maker than any code ever will.