The Complete Guide to Storing and Caring for the C45 Frances Island Hair Claw

If you have ever held a C45 Frances Island hair claw in your hands, you will know the peculiar weight of it — not heavy in the hand, but substantial in the care it demands. The claw is unmistakable: a deep tortoiseshell resin body (rarely, actual horn) framed by a fine brass filigree inset with tiny seed-pearls. Collectors whisper about its origin — a small workshop on Frances Island, off the coast of Cornwall, active only between 1952 and 1954. The C45 designation comes from the Maison Archives inventory system, where the number denotes the shape profile (a five-pronged, gently curved claw) and the letter traces the island batch. Fewer than two hundred pieces are believed to survive today. Storing this piece isn't just about protecting a purchase — it's an act of preserving a sliver of British mid-century craftsmanship.

Why the C45 Frances Island Requires Specialist Storage

The combination of materials makes this claw especially vulnerable. The resin, while strong under normal wear, is sensitive to UV light and extreme temperature shifts. The brass filigree can tarnish if exposed to humidity, and the seed-pearls are soft and prone to scratching. Unlike mass-produced plastic claws, the C45 was hand-assembled: each prong was individually shaped, and the filigree was soldered directly onto the resin base. This means the piece has multiple points of potential stress — the prongs can snap if forced, the filigree can lift if the glue (a period casein-based adhesive) dries out further over time.

A collector in Dorset once shared a cautionary tale with me. She had stored her C45 in a cardboard box lined with ordinary tissue. After a damp winter, the tissue had transferred lignin acids onto the resin, leaving faint brown stains that looked like foxing on an old print. The brass had also begun to green in patches. That claw now sits in a conservation-grade display box, but the damage is permanent. Stories like this make clear that storage for a C45 is not an afterthought — it is the primary act of stewardship.

Immediate Steps When Acquiring a C45 Frances Island Claw

When you acquire a C45 — whether from an estate sale or a relative — start by assessing its condition. Do not wear it immediately. Place it on a soft, lint-free cloth and examine under good daylight. Look for any lifting of the filigree, cracks in the resin, or missing pearls. If the adhesive seems unstable, do not attempt to re-glue it yourself — seek a conservator who specialises in vintage costume jewellery. The British Antique Dealers' Association can recommend qualified professionals.

Next, clean the claw only if absolutely necessary. A soft brush (a clean makeup brush works well) can remove dust from the filigree crevices. For the resin, a barely-damp microfiber cloth wiped in one direction is safe. Never soak the claw, and never use alcohol or acetone — they will dissolve the casein glue and dull the resin's patina.

Building the Correct Storage Environment

The ideal conditions for a C45 Frances Island claw are stable: 18–22°C (64–72°F) and 40–50% relative humidity. A dedicated display box with a glass lid (not acrylic, which can trap static) and a backing of archival-grade, acid-free board is the best choice. If you are keeping the claw in a drawer, line the drawer with unbuffered acid-free tissue and place the claw in a custom-made padded tray. The tray should hold the claw by its prongs, never allowing the filigree to rest on a hard surface.

Avoid polypropylene or polyethylene bags — they can cause condensation with temperature changes. Also avoid direct contact with cedar or lavender sachets; the essential oils can react with the resin over years. For long-term storage, wrap the claw in acid-free tissue, then place it inside a sealed Melinex (polyester) sleeve. Melinex is inert and allows you to see the piece without unwrapping it repeatedly.

Styling the C45 Frances Island Claw Without Damaging It

This claw was designed to hold a chignon or a French twist for a night at the theatre, but with modern hair we need to be gentler. The prongs are not spring-loaded — they rely on the natural tension of the resin. To insert, open the claw by flexing it only slightly; do not force the prongs apart. Place it over a twisted section of hair, then press the claw closed. If it does not grip, the hair is too slippery or the twist too loose. Consider using a small hairpin underneath to provide anchor, rather than over-bending the claw.

Wear it for no more than a few hours at a time. Sweat and hairspray can dull the resin and tarnish the brass. After removing, wipe the prongs with a soft cloth to remove any oils, then return to its storage box immediately. Never leave it loose in a handbag or on a vanity — the filigree is delicate and can catch on fibres or cosmetic caps.

Routine Checks and Long-Term Preservation

Every six months, inspect the C45 for any changes. Hold it to the light to see if the resin has developed micro-cracks near the filigree joints. Test the pearls for looseness by gently pressing them with a wooden toothpick — if one moves, it needs professional resetting. Rotate the claw periodically in its storage box so the same side is not always pressed against the padding. Over decades, even acid-free materials can develop a slight indent, so shifting the position avoids permanent deformation of the resin.

For those who want to catalogue their collection, note the specific batch markings on the C45. Most examples have a tiny "C45" and "FI" stamped on the inside of the left prong. Record the condition, any repairs, and your storage method in a simple digital or paper log. This helps with insurance and creates a provenance record that future collectors will value. If you are building a broader archive of vintage hair accessories, the approach used for the Sea Foam Scallop Hair Claw: A Collector's Guide to British Vintage offers a compatible methodology for documenting and caring for other period pieces.

What Not to Do: Common Mistakes

• Do not store the claw in a bathroom or near a radiator — humidity and heat cycles are the enemy.
• Do not display it under a spotlight or near a window — UV will yellow the resin and fade the pearls.
• Do not use a jewellery cleaner ultrasonic bath — the vibration can dislodge the filigree and crack the resin.
• Do not stack other accessories on top of it; the weight can snap a prong.
• Do not attempt to polish the brass with commercial metal polish — the residue can seep under the filigree.

If tarnish does appear, a very gentle rub with a silver cloth on the brass only (avoiding the resin and pearls) can reduce it. But often a light tarnish is preferable to the risk of abrasion — many collectors accept a soft patina as part of the piece's age.

Incorporating the C45 into a Modern Wardrobe

The Frances Island claw works beautifully with structured 1940s-revival blazers or a simple cashmere roll-neck. Its warm brown tones pair well with mustard, olive, and cream. For evening, a low bun secured with the claw and a single silk ribbon woven through the twist creates a look that is both period-appropriate and contemporary. Because of its rarity, reserve the claw for occasions where you will not be in heavy rain or wind — sudden moisture can cloud the resin temporarily. After wear, always store it as described, and consider keeping a small silica gel packet (in a separate breathable pouch) inside the storage box to maintain stable humidity.

The final, most concrete step for anyone responsible for a C45 Frances Island claw is to test the pH of any storage material before it touches the piece. A simple pH testing kit (available from conservation supply shops) can confirm that your acid-free tissue is genuinely neutral. Many products labelled "archival" still have a slightly alkaline or acidic residue from manufacturing. Run the test on a small corner of the material — if the result is between 6.5 and 7.5, you are safe. If not, replace it. This one precaution, repeated each time you acquire new storage materials, will ensure the C45 remains as it was when it left that small Cornish workshop seventy years ago.