How to Store 18th Century Hats: Tricorns, Bonnets & Calashes

New collectors often store a tricorn hat flat on its brim. After a few weeks, the cocked edges lose their crisp curve, and the felt develops permanent creases that no amount of steaming can fully erase. Whether you own a genuine Georgian calash, a silk-covered bonnet, or a later reproduction, the way you store it determines whether it survives another century or becomes a flattened relic.

Why 18th Century Hats Need Special Attention

Hats from the 1700s were constructed with materials that behave very differently from modern millinery. Straw was often bleached and then shaped around wooden blocks; silk was stiffened with gum arabic or starch; felt was made from beaver fur or wool, heavily compressed. These structures are vulnerable to humidity, light, and pressure. A straw calash stored in a damp basement will soon develop mould spots that cannot be removed without damaging the weave. A silk bonnet left in direct sunlight will fade unevenly, and the silk may become brittle and shatter along the folds.

Understanding the Materials

Before choosing a storage method, identify what your hat is made of. The three main categories are:

• Straw and cane – Used for summer hats, mob caps, and some riding hats. They are lightweight but prone to snapping if bent repeatedly. Storage should support the crown without crushing the brim.
• Silk and velvet – Found on formal bonnets and women’s ‘dress’ hats. Silk is especially sensitive to light and moisture. Velvet can be crushed permanently if pressed against itself for long periods.
• Felt (wool or fur) – Common for men’s bicornes, tricorns, and early top hats. Felt holds its shape well but can develop ‘furrows’ if the brim is folded incorrectly.

Each material demands a slightly different approach, but the core principles remain the same: support, breathability, and stable environment.

The Three Pillars of Hat Storage

1. Support the Shape

Never store a hat resting on its brim. The brim is the most delicate part, especially on cocked hats where the turned-up edges are held by wire or stiffening. Instead, use a hat stand or a padded form that fills the crown. For tricorns and bicornes, you can create a custom support by wrapping a polystyrene half-sphere in acid-free tissue and placing it under the crown. The brim should be slightly elevated or supported at the edges with rolled tissue ‘sausages’ to prevent sagging.

2. Control the Environment

Ideally, hats should be kept in a room with 40–50% relative humidity and a temperature between 15–20°C. Fluctuations cause materials to expand and contract, leading to warping. Avoid attics (too hot) and basements (too damp). A simple hygrometer costs very little and can save a valuable collection.

3. Protect from Light and Dust

UV light degrades silk, straw, and dyed felt. Store hats in a dark cupboard or cover them with a breathable cloth bag (never plastic – it traps moisture). Acid-free tissue paper is ideal for wrapping individual hats. Do not use newspaper; the ink can transfer onto light-coloured materials.

Specific Advice for 18th Century Styles

Tricorns and Bicornes

These cocked hats have a distinctive folded brim that was often held in place by a hidden wire or a stiffened edge. When storing, place the hat on a stand that supports the crown, and then gently shape the brim using rolled tissue to maintain the curve. Never stack tricorns on top of each other – the weight of one hat will flatten the cocked brim of the one below.

Calashes and Bonnets

Calashes (collapsible silk bonnets) were designed to fold flat for travel, but long-term storage in a folded state will create permanent creases. If you must store a calash folded, interleave the folds with acid-free tissue and change the fold position every few months. Better still, store it open on a bonnet stand that supports the crown and the ‘tail’ at the back.

Mob Caps and Simple Straw Hats

These softer hats can be stored flat in a drawer, but only if they are completely clean and free of starch residues. Place a layer of unbuffered acid-free tissue between the hat and the drawer surface. For straw mob caps, consider stuffing the crown with tissue to prevent it from collapsing.

Cleaning Before Storage

Never store a hat that has surface dirt or stains – over time, the particles will become embedded and attract insects. For felt hats, a soft brush (natural bristle) is usually enough. For silk, use a very soft makeup brush to lift dust; never rub. For straw, a gentle wipe with a barely damp cloth can remove light soil, but test on an inconspicuous area first. If a hat has significant soiling, consult a specialist textile conservator – home remedies often do more harm than good.

How to Create a Simple Storage Box for a Cocked Hat

If you do not have a hat stand, a sturdy archival box can work. Measure the hat’s length and width (including the cocked brim). Cut a piece of acid-free foam board to fit inside the box, and carve a shallow depression for the crown. Cover the foam with washed cotton muslin. Place the hat on the foam, then fill the space around the brim with rolled tissue sausages to prevent movement. Close the box and label it with the hat’s date and materials. This method keeps the hat stable, dust-free, and protected from light.

Coordinating with Hair Accessories

Owners of vintage hats often pair them with period-appropriate hair accessories. A 1960s barrette, for instance, can be used to secure a modern updo that echoes the silhouette of a Georgian coiffure – and it will not damage the hat’s lining. For those who enjoy mixing eras, we explored the enduring appeal of the 1960s pebble barrette in an earlier post; its gentle grip and smooth edges make it a safe choice for hair that will later be covered by a hat.

For the hat itself, remember that any hairpin or clip worn underneath should be free of sharp edges that could snag the silk lining. If you use a comb to hold your hair before putting on a bonnet, choose one with rounded teeth – the resin combs from the 1970s, like the off-white cactus comb we have written about, are surprisingly kind to both hair and hat interiors.

Do’s and Don’ts at a Glance

• Do store hats on padded stands or in custom boxes.
• Do use acid-free tissue for padding and wrapping.
• Do keep humidity between 40–50% and temperature stable.
• Do brush felt hats regularly with a soft bristle brush.
• Don’t stack hats on top of each other.
• Don’t store in plastic bags or airtight containers.
• Don’t expose silk hats to direct sunlight.
• Don’t use cleaning solvents or water on antique silk.

If you have a hat that came with its original block or stand, keep it – those early forms are often the best preservation tool. And if you are preparing a hat for long-term storage, take a photograph of it in its original shape before you put it away. That way, even if the brim shifts slightly over the years, you will have a reference to guide its restoration.