The Snake Barrette: A Vintage Hair Accessory That Still Bites

The snake barrette has been a quiet staple of British hair accessories for nearly a century. These clips, typically about seven centimetres long, snap shut with a satisfying click. The snake’s head forms the clasp, while its body curves into a graceful loop. The base is usually brass or a silver-toned alloy, filled with vitreous enamel in colours from deep bottle green to soft blush pink. First popular in the 1920s and 1930s, the design still turns up in vintage-inspired collections because it balances symbolic weight with everyday wearability.

Materials and Techniques

The hallmark of a quality snake barrette is its enamel work. Most vintage examples use champlevé or cloisonné techniques: cavities are carved into the metal, filled with powdered glass, and fired at high temperatures. The result is a smooth, durable surface that resists fading when cared for properly. Modern reproductions often use cold enamel or resin, but true vintage enthusiasts seek fired enamel for its subtle depth and slight translucency. The metal itself is usually stamped or cast, then hand-finished. Look for a secure spring hinge and a tight grip on the hair – these are signs of thoughtful construction.

The Colour Range: From Classic to Unconventional

Black enamel snake barrettes are the most versatile – they pair with everything from a tweed blazer to a silk blouse. Bottle green echoes the Art Deco preference for deep, jewel-like tones. Pink barrettes, often in a soft rose or coral, offer a playful contrast against dark hair. Some pieces combine two colours, such as a green body with gold-tone accents, to mimic the iridescence of actual serpent scales. Each colour tells a different stylistic story, yet the silhouette remains recognisably the same: a smooth, sinuous curve that sits close to the head.

Why the Snake Motif Endures

The snake has appeared in British jewellery since the Victorian era, when Queen Victoria received a serpent engagement ring. In the 1920s, the motif was reinterpreted through Art Deco geometry – clean lines and bold enamels. Hair barrettes of this period were often part of a matching set with earrings or brooches. Today, the snake barrette is valued not only for its vintage pedigree but also for its ability to add a subtle edge to a modern outfit. It works equally well securing a low bun at the nape of the neck or holding back a side section of loose waves.

How to Style a Snake Barrette with a Contemporary Wardrobe

• With a crisp white shirt: Let the barrette be the only accessory. A black or bottle green snake clip at the temple draws the eye without competing with the shirt’s clean lines.
• With a midi dress and cardigan: Choose a pink or coral barrette to echo the floral tones of a spring dress. Place it just above the ear for a look that nods to the 1940s.
• With a leather jacket: A silver-toned snake barrette with black enamel adds a hint of rock-and-roll rebellion. Wear it in a half-up style to keep the hair off the collar.
• With a chunky knit: Clip the barrette at the crown to lift the hair away from the neckline. The contrast of soft wool and hard enamel creates an interesting texture play.

Bereavement and Care: Preserving Your Snake Barrette

Enamel is durable but not indestructible. Avoid dropping the barrette onto hard surfaces – the enamel can chip or crack. When cleaning, use a soft, dry cloth. Never use abrasive cleaners or soak the barrette in water, which can loosen the enamel over time. Store each barrette separately in a soft pouch or a lined jewellery box to prevent metal clasps from scratching one another. If the spring becomes stiff, a tiny drop of sewing machine oil on the hinge (applied with a toothpick) can restore smooth action. For vintage pieces with significant enamel loss, consult a specialist restorer who works with vitreous enamel; many modern jewellers do not have the kiln skills required.

What to Look for When Collecting

When hunting for a vintage snake barrette, examine the enamel surface under good light. Tiny hairline cracks are common and do not affect wearability, but large missing sections will compromise the design. Check that the spring mechanism snaps firmly – a loose barrette will slip out of the hair. Hallmarks on the metal – often a small stamp on the underside of the clasp – can indicate silver content or the maker. British pieces from the 1930s may carry a Birmingham or London assay office mark. Even without hallmarks, a well-made barrette with intact enamel and a strong spring is a worthy addition to any collection.

For those who prefer a different silhouette but enjoy the same vintage sensibility, headbands like the Velvet Twist Headband offer a softer alternative that still carries a classic British feel. The snake barrette, however, remains a singular piece – a small sculpture that holds your hair and your attention in equal measure. To keep it in top condition, store it in a soft pouch away from direct sunlight and avoid contact with hairspray or perfume, which can dull the enamel over time.