Ric Rac 8: The Wide Zigzag Trim for Vintage Hair Accessories

Collectors of vintage British hair accessories quickly learn that not all ric rac is created equal. The term covers a family of zigzag trims, each with a distinct width, curve, and draping behaviour. Among them, Ric Rac No. 8 holds a particular place. It is the widest variant commonly found on mid‑century hair clips, barrettes, and headbands – often measuring around 30 mm from peak to peak. Where narrower ric rac (such as No. 4 or No. 6) provides delicate scalloped edging, No. 8 makes a confident, sculptural statement. Understanding this difference helps you identify, date, and style pieces with the trim that truly defined British millinery in the 1950s and 60s.

Ric Rac No. 8 appears most often on larger hair accessories: banana clips, wide barrettes, and substantial tortoiseshell combs. The trim was produced by British haberdashers such as Finola and Vantril, often in satin or grosgrain rayon. Its generous wave allowed milliners and home seamstresses to create dramatic loops and rosettes. A single length of No. 8 ric rac could be gathered into a bow that holds its shape without additional wiring – a trick that explains its popularity on the iconic cherry‑beret style headbands of the 1950s.

A Brief History of Ric Rac No. 8 in British Hair Accessories

Ric rac as a decorative trim entered British fashion in the 1920s, but the numbered system – 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 9 – became standardised in the post‑war haberdashery trade. The numbers originally referred to the number of scallops per inch, though manufacturers later used them to indicate width ranges. Ric Rac No. 8 typically has four to five full curves per 10 cm, giving it a bold, open wave. In the 1950s, British accessory brands like Vantril and Laughton & Sons used No. 8 to trim velvet headbands and large hair claws. The trim was often dyed to match seasonal fashion colours – coral, mint, lavender – and combined with gold‑tone metal clips. The photos in vintage British sewing catalogues show No. 8 ric rac used not only as edging but also as the main decorative element: gathered into a fan shape on a barrette or stitched flat across a comb for a zigzag line.

By the 1970s, the popularity of wide ric rac declined in favour of narrower trims and simpler plastic clips, but No. 8 remained a favourite among crafters who valued its ability to create volume. Today, it is a key marker for dating a piece to the late 1940s through early 1960s. A hair clip trimmed with Ric Rac No. 8 almost certainly originates from this golden era of British hair accessories.

Identifying Ric Rac No. 8: Materials and Construction

Authentic Ric Rac No. 8 from the mid‑20th century is usually made from rayon or cotton rayon blend, with a stiff edge that holds the wave. Unlike modern polyester ric rac, vintage No. 8 has a slight sheen and a firm hand. To identify it: lay the trim flat and measure the width between the outermost points of two opposite curves. Ric Rac No. 8 measures approximately 28–32 mm. The distance between two consecutive peaks should be about 20–24 mm. The trim is also heavier than narrower numbers; a 30 cm length of No. 8 weighs noticeably more than the same length of No. 4.

Common colours for British Ric Rac No. 8 include black, navy, cream, pastel pink, powder blue, and a specific mid‑century coral known as ‘Finola coral’. The latter is a hallmark of the Finola brand, which produced a whole palette of coordinated accessories – including a line of hair clips and berets with matching ric rac trim. These pieces are highly collectable. For a deeper look at that colour range, the guide Products Finola Colours: A Collector’s Guide to a British Hair Accessory Palette offers specific details on identifying the six standard Finola shades.

Construction details also matter. Vintage No. 8 ric rac is almost always hand‑stitched onto the clip base, with tiny, even stitches that follow the valley of each curve. Machine‑stitched trim appeared later, in the 1970s, and is usually more uniform but less durable. Check the back of the clip: if you see hand‑stitching with a cotton thread that matches the trim colour, you likely have a genuine mid‑century piece.

How to Style Ric Rac No. 8 Hair Accessories Today

The bold scale of Ric Rac No. 8 means it works best as a focal point. A wide barrette trimmed with No. 8 sits beautifully in a low chignon or a half‑up twist – the zigzag line adds texture without overwhelming fine hair. For thicker hair, a banana clip covered in gathered No. 8 ric rac creates a striking daily accessory that recalls the 1950s Hollywood‑inspired looks worn by British actresses like Diana Dors.

Pair a Ric Rac No. 8 clip with a structured garment: a blazer with a Peter Pan collar, a solid‑coloured shirtwaist dress, or a simple cashmere sweater. The trim’s strong pattern works against the clean lines of modern minimalism. A common mistake is mixing wide ric rac with other bold prints – keep the rest of the outfit quiet to let the accessory speak. For a seasonal nod, try a lavender or mint‑green No. 8 barrette with a cream floral midi dress. This exact combination is explored in The Floral Midi Dress and Vintage Hair Accessories: A Practical Guide, which discusses how to balance a patterned dress with a structured trim.

Caring for Ric Rac No. 8: Cleaning and Storage

Vintage Ric Rac No. 8 is often 60–70 years old. The rayon fibres can become brittle if exposed to sunlight or dry heat. Store your pieces flat in a drawer lined with acid‑free tissue, never folded or crushed. For cleaning, avoid submerging the trim. Instead, use a soft, barely‑damp cloth to spot‑clean any soiled areas. If the trim has yellowed (common on cream or white No. 8), a gentle wipe with a mix of distilled water and a drop of pure soap can help, but test on an inconspicuous area first. Never use bleach or harsh detergents – they will dissolve the twist in the rayon and cause the zigzag shape to collapse.

If a piece of No. 8 ric rac has come loose from the clip, it can be reattached by hand with a fine needle and matching thread. Use a slip stitch along the inner valley of each curve, taking care not to pull the trim tight – the wave needs to sit naturally. Small repairs like this preserve the authenticity and value of the piece far better than replacing the trim with modern versions.

Collector’s Notes: What to Look for When Buying

• Width check: Always measure. Many sellers list any wide zigzag trim as ‘Ric Rac’, but only a trim that measures 28–32 mm across can be considered No. 8.
• Backing material: Look for metal or tortoiseshell cellulose acetate bases. Plastic bases from the 1970s are less desirable but still authentic if combined with No. 8 trim.
• Brand markings: Some British pieces have a small stamp on the inside of the clip (e.g., “Vantril”, “Regd. No.”, or “British Made”). These stamps add provenance.
• Condition of the trim: Fraying at the edges is acceptable and common; missing sections or faded colour reduce value. A full length of intact No. 8 is rarer than a shortened one.
• Completeness: A hair accessory may have been re‑trimmed later. Check that the stitching style matches the era – modern polyester thread or glue residue is a red flag.

A piece that combines Ric Rac No. 8 with a cherry‑beret motif – the sweet, gathered bow of red ric rac on a velvet base – is a particularly prized find. The Cherry Beret: A Vintage Hair Accessory with a Sweet Story article on this blog details how to spot one and what makes it special.

The Quiet Practicality of No. 8

Unlike narrower ric rac, which can feel like a mere trim, No. 8 has presence. It catches light differently in each curve, creating a gentle shimmer when the wearer moves. That subtle movement – a flash of zigzag between strands of hair – is the reason collectors return to this width again and again. For someone looking to add a single, statement vintage hair accessory to their wardrobe, a clip trimmed with Ric Rac No. 8 offers instant character without requiring a full vintage outfit. It is a piece that holds its own against a modern silk blouse or a tailored coat. And because the trim was made from quality rayon, it still feels substantial in the hand – a small, sturdily crafted detail that has outlasted decades of changing fashion.