The Imogen Silky Bow Barrette in Red: A Vintage British Hair Accessory Guide
When you slide open the clasp of an original Imogen silky bow barrette in red, the first thing you notice is the weight — not heavy, but substantial, with a spring mechanism that clicks with quiet authority. The ribbon itself, a deep crimson grosgrain silk, is folded into a precise double-loop bow, each tail cut on the bias to prevent fraying. This is not a mass-produced trinket. The Imogen barrette, produced in small runs by a London-based millinery workshop between the late 1940s and early 1960s, represents a moment when British hair accessories were crafted with the same attention to finish as a Savile Row suit.
The Anatomy of the Imogen Bow Barrette
The red Imogen barrette is defined by three elements: the silk ribbon, the metal clip, and the hand-stitched construction. The ribbon is woven from Chinese silk, dyed with a stable red that has held its colour across decades — a testament to the quality of pre-synthetic aniline dyes. The bow is not glued; it is tacked by hand with invisible stitches that allow the silk to move slightly, giving the barrette a soft, organic drape. The clip is a French-style spring hinge, often stamped with the maker's mark "Imogen" in a delicate serif. Unlike modern barrettes that rely on plastic teeth, the Imogen uses a brass comb with rounded prongs that grip hair without snagging.
Silk Bows in British Fashion: A Brief History
The use of silk ribbon in hair accessories became prominent in Britain during the 1920s, when flapper girls clipped small velvet bows to their bobbed hair. By the 1940s, with fabric rationing still in effect, silk was a luxury material reserved for special occasions. Milliners and dressmakers would repurpose offcuts from evening gowns into hair bows. The Imogen barrette belongs to this tradition of resourceful elegance. After the war, as rationing eased, workshops like the one behind Imogen began producing dedicated hair accessories using full-width silk ribbons imported from Italy and France. The deep red colour was particularly popular for autumn and winter, complementing the tweed suits and wool coats that defined the British wardrobe of the 1950s.
Materials and Craftsmanship: What to Look For
When evaluating a vintage Imogen barrette — or a modern reproduction that honours the original — the material tells the story. Genuine vintage pieces use pure silk; the surface has a subtle unevenness and a soft lustre that polyester cannot replicate. Run your thumb along the ribbon: silk warms to the touch quickly, while synthetics stay cool. The stitching on the bow should be nearly invisible, with the thread matching the ribbon colour exactly. The clip should open and close with a smooth, not stiff, motion. Many original Imogen barrettes have a small metal plate on the underside engraved with "IMOGEN LONDON". If you find one without the plate but with the same construction details, it may be a later workshop piece or a private commission.
Styling the Red Imogen Barrette with a Modern Wardrobe
The red silk bow barrette is surprisingly versatile. Its small size — the bow measures roughly 6 cm across — means it can be worn without overwhelming a contemporary outfit. For a day look, clip it at the nape of the neck to secure a low ponytail or a half-up twist. The red adds a deliberate punctuation to neutral tones: cream, grey, navy, and especially tweed. A reader recently told us she wears her Imogen barrette with a fitted tweed jacket and straight-leg jeans, and it looks as natural as it would have in 1952. If you own a classic tweed boucle jacket, the red bow creates a pleasing contrast — a small, intentional pop of colour against the textured weave. (For more on styling tweed, see our guide to seven tweed boucle jackets available to buy now.)
For evening, the Imogen barrette works beautifully with a silk blouse or a velvet dress. Slide it sideways above the ear, like a French twist accent, or use it to pin back a heavy side-swept bang. The key is to let the barrette sit slightly proud of the hair — not buried in a mass of strands — so the bow shape remains visible.
Care and Preservation of Silk Bow Barrettes
Silk is a protein fibre and requires gentle handling. To clean a vintage Imogen barrette, never submerge it in water. Instead, dab a cotton bud in a drop of mild silk shampoo (diluted in water) and spot-clean only the ribbon, avoiding the metal clip. Blot immediately with a dry cloth and leave to air-dry flat — never hang, as the weight of the wet silk can distort the bow. If the clip becomes stiff, apply a tiny amount of sewing machine oil to the hinge joint with a pin, then open and close the clip several times to distribute the lubricant. Store the barrette in a fabric-lined box or a drawer, away from direct sunlight, which will fade the red over time. If you have multiple vintage accessories, keep them separated by tissue paper to prevent the metal clips from scratching each other.
Finding an Original Imogen Barrette
Original Imogen barrettes appear sporadically at vintage fairs, estate sales, and online marketplaces. The red colour is among the more common, but condition varies widely. Look for examples where the silk is intact without frayed edges or water stains, and where the clip still holds tension. A barrette with a loose clip can be repaired by a jeweller, but the cost may outweigh the value unless the piece is particularly rare. Expect to pay between £20 and £60 for a well-preserved example, depending on the complexity of the bow and the clarity of the maker's mark. If you cannot find a vintage original, several small British artisans now produce handmade silk barrettes inspired by the Imogen design — look for those who use actual silk and brass clips, not plastic-coated wire.
One final detail: the original Imogen packaging was a small grey cardboard box with a pink ribbon tie. If you ever come across a barrette still in its box, the premium is justified — not only for the completeness, but because the box often contains a tiny care card that reads: "This barrette is made from pure silk. Avoid rain and perfume. Store flat." That advice, written sixty years ago, remains the best guide we have.