How to Spot a Real Clemie Hair Claw vs. a Copy

When the original Clemie hair claw appeared in British accessory shops during the late 1980s and early 1990s, it was an instant cult object. Its distinctive spring-loaded mechanism, the sculpted acetate prongs, and the subtle colour gradients made it a favourite for everything from school-day half-ups to evening chignons. Three decades later, the Clemie claw has become a holy grail for vintage collectors. Demand far outstrips supply, and a quiet but persistent market has emerged: modern reproductions, homages, and in some cases outright copies that trade on the name and silhouette without sharing the original's quality. Understanding these products is essential for anyone who wants to build a meaningful collection without confusion or disappointment.

What Defines the Original Clemie Hair Claw

Before we examine copies, we need a clear picture of the authentic article. The Clemie claw was manufactured in Britain by a small company that specialised in injection-moulded cellulose acetate. The design was patented in 1987, and production ran until the mid-1990s. Key characteristics include:

• Weight and feel: Originals have a satisfying heft. The acetate is dense, not brittle, and the spring is firm but smooth.
• Colour depth: The colour is not painted on; it runs through the material. Tortoiseshell variants show a layered amber that shifts when held up to light.
• Markings: Most original claws have a tiny embossed “Clemie” or “C” on the inner curve of the handle. This can wear off over time, but its absence is a red flag.
• Spring housing: The metal spring is enclosed in a reinforced section of the claw; you should never see exposed coils when the claw is closed.

For a deeper dive into the 1990s production run, our guide to the Clemie Hair Claw as a 1990s icon covers the specific colourways and the evolution of the design.

Why Copies Exist

The scarcity of original Clemie claws in good condition has created a vacuum. A single claw in a desirable colour — say, the deep mottled tortoiseshell or the pale lavender — can sell for £40–£80 at vintage fairs or online auctions. That price tag naturally attracts manufacturers who see an opportunity to produce cheaper alternatives. Some are honest reproductions, clearly labelled as modern interpretations. Others are deliberately deceptive, using the Clemie name or a close approximation of the shape to pass as original. The distinction matters for both ethical collecting and long-term wear.

How to Identify a Copy: A Practical Checklist

Whether you are browsing a market stall or scrolling through an online listing, these five checks will help you separate an original from a product copy.

1. Examine the prong tips. Original Clemie claws have rounded, slightly polished tips. Copies often have sharp, unfinished edges where the acetate was cut from a mould.
2. Test the spring tension. Open and close the claw several times. An original spring is quiet and consistent. Copies tend to be either too stiff (the claw fights you) or too loose (it slips out of your hair).
3. Look at the colour surface. Hold the claw at an angle. Originals show a subtle marbling or translucency. Copies that are painted or dipped will appear flat and uniform.
4. Check for a maker's mark. Use a magnifying glass or your phone's macro lens. If you see “Clemie” or a stylised “C” in the mould, you are likely holding an original. A blank inner curve is suspicious, though not definitive — some very early prototypes had no mark.
5. Weigh it in your hand. An original claw feels substantial. Modern copies made from cheaper acrylic are noticeably lighter and sometimes have a hollow sound when tapped on a table.

If you are new to collecting, start with a seller who specialises in British vintage accessories and can tell you the provenance. The market for the 1980s Clemie claw has its own nuances, which we explore in our collector's guide to the first series.

The Ethics and Aesthetics of Buying Reproductions

Not every copy is a fake. Several small British makers now produce hair claws inspired by the Clemie silhouette but made with contemporary materials and a clear indication that they are new. These can be a wonderful entry point for someone who loves the look but cannot find an original in good condition, or who wants to wear the style daily without risking a fragile vintage piece.

When considering a reproduction, ask yourself: does the maker credit the original design? Is the price fair for the craftsmanship? A well-made modern claw that costs £15 and is labelled as a “Clemie-style claw” is a honest product. The same claw sold for £50 with a false claim of being “vintage 1990s” is a deception. The difference is not in the object itself but in the information attached to it.

Materials and Care: Originals vs. Copies

Original Clemie claws are made of cellulose acetate, a plant-based plastic that ages gracefully if cared for properly. It can develop a patina over decades, and the colour may deepen. Cellulose acetate is sensitive to heat and prolonged sunlight — never leave a vintage claw on a windowsill or near a radiator.

Modern copies are usually made of ABS plastic or polypropylene. These materials are more durable in terms of impact resistance, but they do not develop the same warm character over time. They can also snag hair more easily because the moulding is less refined. For both types, the same care routine applies:

• Wipe with a soft, dry cloth after each use to remove hair oils.
• Avoid soaking in water or alcohol-based cleaners — they can cloud the surface.
• Store in a fabric-lined box or pouch, away from other metal accessories that could scratch the finish.

A Final Note on Building Your Collection

The Clemie hair claw, in its original form, represents a specific moment in British accessory design — when small manufacturers could create a cult item that spread by word of mouth and survived through sheer quality. Copies and reproductions are part of that story too, a testament to the enduring appeal of the shape. The best approach is to know what you are buying, pay accordingly, and enjoy the piece for what it is. If you pick up a modern copy at a charity shop for a few pounds, wear it with pleasure. If you find an original with the spring still tight and the colour still glowing, treat it as the small treasure it is. The hair does not know the difference, but the collector's heart does, and that is exactly why this little claw continues to fascinate us.